Replacing AFT Cockpit Sole Hatches

[LuckeCatanias]

As part of the refresh for my entire bilge area that climaxed with removal and replacement of my fuel tank, I am also replacing these hatches that almost everyone seems to find problematic.

I’ve begun prepping the existing penetrations to build up the profile with fiber reinforced epoxy and maybe a layer or two of glass. This will help in providing good substructure to drill and fasten into.

These are the hatches I ordered:

Jim Black Boat Deck Hatch 581-1324-04 | 13 x 24 Inch Arctic White

Jim Black Boat Deck Hatch 581-1324-04 | 13 x 24 Inch Arctic White

Boat part number 1012809 is a new deck hatch from Jim Black, part number 581-1324-04 .

www.greatlakesskipper.com

 

[ssobol]

Don't know about the 25 but on the 22s most people use Imtra 4000 series hatches. On these hatches, the hatch itself extends over the lip of the hatch coaming. This helps keep water out of the gap at the lip. Water tightness is less reliant on the seal. On the 22, one model of the Imtra hatch is a drop in for the existing hatch (that tends to leak). There may not be a drop in model for the 25.

https://www.imtra.com/products/other-products/hatches-doors/access-hatches-hinges

 

[thataway]

Are these as "leak proof" as the Imtra ones which most of us have used? I have never heard of "Jim Black"--who is behind this line of products?

 

[Salmon Fisher]

Here's a link to discussion on topic. With product info:

Thread 'CD-25 Aft Cockpit Hatches'

Apr 10, 2024

There have been a few other threads on this topic, but I'm starting a new one to bring it up to date. The hatches in the aft cockpit of the 25, at least in my 2009, are poor in design and do little to keep rain or wash water out of the bilge. After attempting to fix a leak underneath my aft cabin bulkhead that was letting water from the bilge into the cabin, I decided I would also replace the aft cockpit hatches. (Hoping the leak repair works this time.) I am going with the hatch recommended by Dr. Bob in an earlier thread:

Innovative Product Solutions Boat Hatch 520-625 | Polar White...

• colbysmith
• Replies: 29
• Forum: Hull, Deck and Fittings

Boris on Journey On did one of the first installations, unfortunately his discussion may be lost in the switch over from old to new C-Brats.

 

[LuckeCatanias]

Here's a link to discussion on topic. With product info:

Thread 'CD-25 Aft Cockpit Hatches'

Apr 10, 2024

There have been a few other threads on this topic, but I'm starting a new one to bring it up to date. The hatches in the aft cockpit of the 25, at least in my 2009, are poor in design and do little to keep rain or wash water out of the bilge. After attempting to fix a leak underneath my aft cabin bulkhead that was letting water from the bilge into the cabin, I decided I would also replace the aft cockpit hatches. (Hoping the leak repair works this time.) I am going with the hatch recommended by Dr. Bob in an earlier thread:

Innovative Product Solutions Boat Hatch 520-625 | Polar White...

• colbysmith
• Replies: 29
• Forum: Hull, Deck and Fittings

Boris on Journey On did one of the first installations, unfortunately his discussion may be lost in the switch over from old to new C-Brats.

Yeah, I read this thread. Unfortunately I was unable to source the P/N that Cody used in the off white to match my gelcoat. I was unwilling to have the that pure "arctic white" hatch and/or paint them as Cody did.

 

[LuckeCatanias]

Are these as "leak proof" as the Imtra ones which most of us have used? I have never heard of "Jim Black"--who is behind this line of products?

I'll report back if they have issues.

"Jim Black" is a label under the same manufacturer of the "Innovative Product Solutions" hatches referenced in Cody's thread according to the Great Lakes Skipper website.

They seem sturdy enough. Definitely an improvement on what was there before.

 

[LuckeCatanias]

Don't know about the 25 but on the 22s most people use Imtra 4000 series hatches. On these hatches, the hatch itself extends over the lip of the hatch coaming. This helps keep water out of the gap at the lip. Water tightness is less reliant on the seal. On the 22, one model of the Imtra hatch is a drop in for the existing hatch (that tends to leak). There may not be a drop in model for the 25.

https://www.imtra.com/products/other-products/hatches-doors/access-hatches-hinges

I didn't come across the Imtra line when I was looking for a viable hatch.
After reviewing the 4000-series product info they look like they are quite a bit smaller than the ones I ended up with.
Something of a priority as building up that much material back onto the sole would be challenging for me.

The Imtra opening size is 10.75x20.5.
My existing penetration is 11x24.
Making up 2 inches on either end seemed like too much.
The way these fit only has a tiny area at each of the 4 corners that will need gelcoating and finishing.

I can see your point about having the hatch lid extend all the way over the combing.
Certainly if these ones have issues that will be a feature I look for in a replacement.

Again, the ones I ended up with are a vast improvement on what was there which was completely non-water tight.
We'll see how it goes and I'll certainly report back if these have issues.

 

[ssobol]

Yeah, I read this thread. Unfortunately I was unable to source the P/N that Cody used in the off white to match my gelcoat. I was unwilling to have the that pure "arctic white" hatch and/or paint them as Cody did.

When I bought my Imtra hatches they were available in an off-white color that matched well with the "white" gelcoat of my 22.

 

[thataway]

Adam, thank you. We are all here to learn from our brothers and sisters on their C Dorys.

Here is the link to Boris's original posts.

the cutout which was 10 1/2" x 24 1/4". That 10 ½ “ width fits inside the recess C-Dory made for their hatches and it will position the hatch so it covers the old screw holes. The 24 ½” dimension is longer that the recess, so I used the outboard end as a start and the inboard fell where it may, as shown in Picture 2. The rounded corners are 2 ¼ radius, neatly drawn by hand. The best way to cut the deck is a metal cutting blade in a jigsaw.

Here are two phots from Journey On's original posts. I have been involved in putting these in 3 C Dory 25 and they seem to keep the bilge dry.