1983 16 ft Angler windshield replacement.

hoorenga

New member
Hi folks, I'm new to the site so I hope I'm in the right area. I'm in unfamiliar territory. Looks like a friendly group though. I just purchased a 1983, 16 foot, C Dory Angler. Among other issues The two plexiglass windshields need to be replaced. The original installation looks simple enough but I don't think I am going to be able to find the little clamps that hold the windshields in place. If I could find those it would be a cinch. I'd just buy some new plexiglass, caulk the edges with clear silicone and set the new clamps. No one seems to carry replacement. I'm wondering what others have done when the old clamps fail? How about bolting the windows in place? Sounds sort of crude.
 
Doug, I am speaking from ignorance about older 16s, but most of the boats for quite a while have windows by Diamond Sea Glaze in Canada. I could be very wrong about your vintage, so hopefully someone with a 16 will chime in.
 
Doug-

First, I think all the windows I've ever seen on a C-Dory are double pane tempered safety glass, not plexiglass (plastic). The plastic scratches and looses its ability to see clearly through.

Secondly, the average good automotive window shop can cut a new pair of windows for you out of safety glass, and can tint them too, if you desire. Safety glass is harder to cut and work with than single pane, and many of our windows have rounded corners that must be ground. Some of this is beyond my present skill level.

Thirdly, they can either repair or replace the clamps, using replacements from Diamond Sea Glaze or another suitable type.

And lastly, they can probably do a much better job of sealing the new glass in the frames than the average do-it-yourselfer, but you could get the materials from them and do it yourself if you so desire.

When I first bought my 1987 CD-22 Cruiser, one of the sliding side windows (starboard) was cracked, and I had a local shop cut a replacement which I then installed in the frame. This replacement required no calking, and was inserted from inside the cabin after disassembling the inner window frame. I paid about $45 for that 1/2 window panel. (~1998)

Good Luck on whatever you decide!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Hi guys, it looks like I have some early technology. The front windows look original. There are two of them and thy are plexiglass. I suppose they could have originally been safety glass but I'm guessing not. It's a pretty simple set up. The windows are cut slightly larger than the opening and a clear sealing tape was used to make the seal between the window and fiberglass. There is a special type of clip that heolds the windows in place, two alone each edge. They are spring loaded and specifically designed to pinch the window into place. The clips had a rubber part that deteriorated. It does look like a complete system but it is now in need of rejuvenation or replacement. Another interesting point is that there doesn't seem to ever have been any wipers of any sort. What I'm thinking is that they decided early on that it wasn't the best of choices for front windshields and went to a better system. I think what I might do is go to another type of window set up but I'm not exactly sure what to do. I did see some rubber window gasket material that you fit into a cut out opening that will receive a window that is cut to fit the opening. Any other ideas?
 
hoorenga":32wlbnll said:
Hi guys, it looks like I have some early technology. The front windows look original. There are two of them and thy are plexiglass. I suppose they could have originally been safety glass but I'm guessing not. It's a pretty simple set up. The windows are cut slightly larger than the opening and a clear sealing tape was used to make the seal between the window and fiberglass. There is a special type of clip that heolds the windows in place, two alone each edge. They are spring loaded and specifically designed to pinch the window into place. The clips had a rubber part that deteriorated. It does look like a complete system but it is now in need of rejuvenation or replacement. Another interesting point is that there doesn't seem to ever have been any wipers of any sort. What I'm thinking is that they decided early on that it wasn't the best of choices for front windshields and went to a better system. I think what I might do is go to another type of window set up but I'm not exactly sure what to do. I did see some rubber window gasket material that you fit into a cut out opening that will receive a window that is cut to fit the opening. Any other ideas?

Depending on the size of the current cutout, it might be possible to use the windows now used on the 16. E.g. if the cutout on your boat is the same or smaller than what is done on the current 16's, you could order the entire window from Diamond Seaglaze and have something that will last a very long time. There's also other manufacturers of boat windows that are a little less expensive than Diamond Seaglaze that may have some std. item that would fit the bill. Les at EQ marine (who builds the Marinauts) briefly mentioned something about a different window manufacturer that they were using. I can't remember the name but it's in a post someplace on the site in one of the marinaut threads.
 
It would be interesting/helpful to see a photo. I'm not up on vintage 16's, but in other types of boats it's not too unusual for a "previous owner" to have a problem with original, framed windows or ports (say they get corrosion or crack or etc.) and then to remove them and install simple/inexpensive overlay plastic panes. Maybe that's what was done on your boat? Or maybe it is original and just an older style (?).
 
Here's a picture of a 1984 16' angler. It has glass windows just like the ones made today. So Sunbeam's explanation might be the most likely reason for plexi windows on yours today.

bd8f1956.jpg
 
hoorenga-

If it turns out your window cut-outs are the standard size that will fit the traditional Diamond Sea-Glaze windows, replacing the windows with the originals might be the best in terms of restoring the boat to it's original condition and RESALE VALUE.

An inexpensive and cheap-looking substitute might just reflect very negatively on the whole boat's image and appeal to potential new owner.

The problem is the Diamond Sea-Glaze windows may cost ~$300-$500 or more each, which would have to be evaluated against the boat's estimated resale value fitted with various window alternatives.

In addition, nice, new safety-glass windows would give you a chance to add window wipers to the boat's inventory.

Decisions, Decisions Decisions ($, $, $, !!!) :lol:

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
After considering a lot of different options I am down to a suggestion from my local glass shop. The fellow there suggested that I place a gasket material in the opening. This stuff is used on tractor cabs and such and has a grove that the edge of the fiberglass would slip into. A bit of silicone injected into the grove would create a water tight seal between the gasket and the fiberglass. From there all you need to do is create a pattern for the window out of cardboard, allowing for the gasket. The finished window pops into the gasket (easier said than done I'm sure). I have seen this style of window on a lot of aluminum boats. The cost for the gasket material is minimal and the price of two windows cut to order is under $200. Sounds like my kind of fix.

I don't think that there were ever any framed windows in this boat. This is a pretty minimalist model. It must have been one of the earliest. When did they start making them? I also don't see any evidence of any windshield wipers ever having been mounted. That could be a problem. Even if you don't get rained on, there's always spray. The current windows are just plexiglass cutouts that overlap the opening in the cabin by an inch all around. There seems to be some sort of clear sealing tape between the window and fiberglass and then the panes are simply held in place by four clips that seem to be some sort of specialized type of hardware designed just for that purpose.
 
hoorenga":28jj1l00 said:
After considering a lot of different options I am down to a suggestion from my local glass shop. The fellow there suggested that I place a gasket material in the opening. This stuff is used on tractor cabs and such and has a grove that the edge of the fiberglass would slip into. A bit of silicone injected into the grove would create a water tight seal between the gasket and the fiberglass.

I could see that working well (minus the silicone, IMO). If you are talking about the self-sealing rubber gaskets with the bead (lockstrip) that look like the ones I show below, then they are used on fiberglass campers, fiberglass boats, school busses and etc. to hold the windows in (on the campers/boats I know of they are used with a plastic window material, not a glass one, but perhaps it depends on how flat the pane can be).

I'm sure there is more than one company that makes it, but C.R. Laurence is one, and you can get each side of the gasket in different thicknesses (to accommodate the boat fiberglass thickness and the window thickness separately). They don't sell direct to the public, but glass suppliers, etc. can get it. Note that you buy the lockstrip separately, and also that a lockstrip tool (bought or homemade) and some soapy water makes the process go easier. The gaskets like this that I know of are not installed with any sealant or caulk, but rather onto clean glass/plastic.

This isn't typically as "sophisticated" as framed ports, but it is a known way to install inoperable windows, and has a tidy, "non-homemade" appearance.

CRL_Universal_Weatherstrip.jpg


Lockstrip:
CRL_Locking_Strip_for_Two_Piece_Weatherstrips_20887_th.gif


I tried to put in a link to these products on CR Laurence's page, but that caused my post to come up completely blank each time (must've been some character in the long link (?). So here is a link to their main page, and the gasket parts can be found under "automotive products" and then "auto glass weatherstrips and moldings." The parts shown are "two piece self-sealing weatherstrip" and "Locking strip for self-sealing weatherstrip."

http://www.crlaurence.com
 
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