1998 Honda BF90 spare parts to carry

Ken O

Ken O

Member
Our C-22 came with and still has a 1998 BF90. The hours are unknown, but probably are low. The motor runs flawlessly. The oil still looks like honey at oil change time.

My question is: what spare parts should I carry, and what maintenance might I be missing.

Every season I do all the standard stuff (change motor oil, filter, gear oil, check for water in the lower unit (never a drop), gap spark plugs, lube, change impeller every other year, etc.

I carry a spare prop, several nuts and prop washers, spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel pumps, filters, hose and clamps, impeller kits, oil and filters, gear oil, and appropriate tools, including a multimeter.

I don't want to carry a lot more parts, but I don't want to overlook a commonly needed part or maintenance task.

Any experience with this motor or the BF70 would be appreciated.
 
If that year motor has a flexible timing belt, instead of a timing chain, probably time to have that replaced.
I am not sure if that year is an interference type motor, but a broken timing belt is bad at any time.
 
I have owned several Honda 90's and 150. The kit is very much like you say. Complete took kit, incuding torque wrenchs. Robertson as well as close work slot and phillips scew driver, Metric and SAE sockets and open/box wrenches.

I do add in extra drain plug for both the engine oil and lower unit. I also have the proper steering fluid in a quart size and tubing to bleed the hydraulic system.

Be sure to have a prop wrench and extra prop/props on board.
 
Thanks guys. I forgot to mention that I did replace the timing belt when I got the motor. It is an interference engine--same block as the older Accords. Indestructible as long as they have oil and an intact timing belt! Bob, thanks for the reminder. I also do have the drain plugs and the socket for the prop. So far, so good.
 
I have an '08 BF90D. I do the scheduled maintenance. I carry a spare prop, the tools to change it, and a quart or two of engine oil.

However, I don't usually go off into the uncharted wilds in my boat.
 
It really depends on a ton of things how much I bring. But I always carry a spare prop, some basic stuff to repair electrical crap, hydraulic oil, duct tape, and basic tools. I have never carried extra spark plugs, fuel filters, or 3/4 of that stuff people have listed. Maybe I should....But I have found from thousands of hours of experience that if you are up on your maintenance, those things just don't randomly fail unless something really exceptional occurs. I supposed it's just risk management and what you're comfortable with that drives our decisions...I think your list is great. And it's important we keep Sea Tow in business.....lol....
 
The several items I would say are essential are: spare prop, and tools to change.

Fuel filters--even though we all try and do preventive maintenance you can get bad fuel.

I even used a "surplus" piece of Hypalon on an inflatable to make a fuel pump diaphragm on the boat's outboard. It was going to be a very long paddle home...actually we had a 3 hp outboard as the kicker for the 25 on the dinghy.
 
Looking on Utube for the answer as to whether the BF90 has a belt or chain. The best i could find is that the change over between belt to chain was somewhere around 2006 when they reconfigured the entire engine. One video I saw was for a 2005 BF 90 timing belt change out. so they still had a belt in 2005.
As far a carrying a belt as an emergency repair, well if you bring your manual and are a proficient mechanic then maybe but for the rest of us, probably unnecessary added cargo.
 
Schuster":u8emuhag said:
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As far a carrying a belt as an emergency repair, well if you bring your manual and are a proficient mechanic then maybe but for the rest of us, probably unnecessary added cargo.
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If the timing belt lets go while the motor is running you will need to be a very expert mechanic with lots of spare parts and tools to ever get it working again. On the other, if you're not, you'll have a nice anchor.
 
SSBOL, you're correct. It is my understanding that if the belt breaks while running that the cam shaft stops turning but the crankshaft will continue to turn. As a result timing is thrown off and as a result valves and push rods get bent by the piston pushing up into the valve and any number of problems can stem from that including a damaged piston, bent or broken valves, a damaged cylinder wall or head and possibly damaged camshaft. I guess the prudent course of action is to check the timing belt occasionally for wear.

Ken O, I would recommend that if you haven't looked at the belt or had a mechanic look at the condition of the belt that it is new to you, you should inspect it to know where you stand from the git go. Good luck.
 
Schuster":1qy6aa41 said:
SSBOL, you're correct. It is my understanding that if the belt breaks while running that the cam shaft stops turning but the crankshaft will continue to turn. As a result timing is thrown off and as a result valves and push rods get bent by the piston pushing up into the valve and any number of problems can stem from that including a damaged piston, bent or broken valves, a damaged cylinder wall or head and possibly damaged camshaft. I guess the prudent course of action is to check the timing belt occasionally for wear.

Ken O, I would recommend that if you haven't looked at the belt or had a mechanic look at the condition of the belt that it is new to you, you should inspect it to know where you stand from the git go. Good luck.
Click to expand...

If the timing belt breaks, the engine will not run for very long at all because the valve and ignition timing get way out of whack very quickly. It would be mostly inertia from the rotating parts and maybe some back drive from the prop in the water.

The other issue with an older timing belt is that it can slip a notch or two if the teeth on the belt are worn. If it doesn't slip very far, the motor can still run (roughly) while the internals beat themselves to pieces. I had this happen once in a car which had a timing chain. The chain slipped a couple of notches. The engine still ran for a few days (with some odd noises) before giving up completely. The mechanic said the only thing to do was replace the engine.
 
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