3M 5200 Adhesive

T

Tug

New member
I just did some work on re-positioning my transducer on my Angler. I used 3M 5200 adhesive on the screws and to fill some old screw holes along with some wooden doles. I ended up using to much 5200 and was wondering if the 5200 will continue to cure under water. Thanks Tug
 
The screws and the wooden doles that were dipped in 5200 cured at least 24-30 hours in hot weather before i launched my boat.I didn't want to wait 5 - 7 days. I also read that 5200 actually cured in a moist environment but it never stated how long after application the 5200 was immersed in water. The new screw holes are in my mounting board so i am not worried about them...there are 3 or 4 screw holes that might of went thru the mounting board into the transom. These i drove doles into and coated with 5200..these are the ones i was concerned about but they were a tight fit..Thanks Tug
 
Well, it's 5:10 am and i am off fishing for a couple of hours. When i get back i am going to haul my boat back home and remove the transducer ..again. I will redrill and reseal all the holes with 5200 or 4200 fast cure and make sure the job is done properly.This is probably unnecessary but at least i will sleep at night. Will post some pictures. Tug
 
When i got back from fishing this morning i went to Canadian Tire and bought some 3M 4200 fast cure and some wooden dowels for the transducer refit: This is the process:

http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb3 ... 0_0761.jpg

http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb3 ... 0_0762.jpg

http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb3 ... 0_0763.jpg

http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb3 ... 0_0764.jpg

http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb3 ... 0_0765.jpg

http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb3 ... 0_0766.jpg

http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb3 ... 0_0767.jpg

http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb3 ... 0_0768.jpg

http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb3 ... 0_0769.jpg

http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb3 ... 0_0770.jpg

http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb3 ... 0_0771.jpg

It didn't take that long and with the 3M 4200 Fast Cure i should be on the water by Wednesday.......Tug
 
Took my boat for a long ride this morning and the transducer performed well, the return trip was something else.I started losing bottom more and more frequently and for longer periods of time. I ended up hauling the boat home to get a better look at the transducer...seems that the mounting board has become slightly loose and the 3M 4200 that was applied to the perimeter of the mounting board is gone.... I am not sure what to do now....should i install a couple of more screws into the mounting board to secure it..or install the transducer directly to the transom on the starboard side of the transom....Than i would remove the mounting board and seal up the holes and cover with bottom paint.King salmon season is coming up shortly and i would like to resolve this before than...any suggestions. Tug
 
Lots of different ways to do things. I like drilling out for small screw holes with a 5/16 bit with electrical tape wrapped around the drill at the the desired depth to prevent me from going in too deep. I only go maybe about 1/8 inch or 3/16's longer than the screw that will be used and then using a dremel tool with a cutter tool with flat ends and straight sides insert into the hole and under cut the hole beneath the fiberglass so the epoxy plug would be hard put to be able to pop out.. Then I use an west system epoxy that comes in a resealable cauking gun type tube that uses a mixing tube so as you squeeze it out it is ready to put in place. Available at West Marine. Buy extra mixing tubes. I mentioned more about the product in the 08 Venture Drain flange fitting thread. I fill the hole with epoxy and use a tooth pick to get rid of any air pockets and use masking tape to hold the epoxy in place on vertical areas. I let it cure for a couple of days and then drill pilot holes into the epoxy but be careful to not to go all the way through the epoxy for your mounting screws. Test mount what ever you are fasting make sure the screws will come tight. Then remove and cover the plate with fast cure 3M 4200 and refasten and let cure for longer than the recommended time. Done this way water can only seep in by the screws into the epoxy which should be uneffected. Check Thatway's album for pic's. Dats where I learned about it.
D.D.
 
Brent, i have thought of that before but in my boat there is really no where to install a inboard transducer in the stern of the boat..the gas tank butts right up against the inside of the transom...

D.D. what you suggest is what i will probably have to do..it's the only right way to do it.....that is what i did in the first place with the mounting plate....the mounting plate is very secure where it is screwed to the transom..it's only at the very bottom of the mounting plate ..( where it is not screwed secure )..where it seems to of straightened out very slightly....but that was enough to throw off the transducers readings...( see last picture in previous post )

when i installed the mounting plate i used a heat blower type gun on the Starboard to form the Starboard to the contour of the transom...it seems that the Starboard at the bottom is straightening out and returning to its original form.. what i will do is just drill a couple of more holes ..( bed them as you suggest )..and tighten with screws....that should move the Starboard mounting plate in so that the transducer will read correctly.

this fall i will remove the mounting plate ...seal all the holes ..prime and bottom paint and bring the transom back to new.....than i will install a new smaller mounting plate on the Starboard side of the transom and remount the transducer as you suggest.
Thanks for the impute.....Tug
 
I don't know how well any adhesive will stick to starboard. I would try drill some blind holes not all (the way through) and maybe be some saw cuts that don't go all the way through so it will keep the starboard from moving around while the screws that thread into the epoxy hold it tight to the transom.
D.D.
 
I wasn't too eager to start drilling new holes in my boat today so i called my friend the boat/Yamaha mechanic to see what he thought. Happens that he was going to be going by my place within the hour on his way to his new shop and he would stop by to see. Well, he had the job done in about 20 minutes.

He drilled and screwed with sealant the bottom right/left corners of the mounting board tight. Lowered the transducer quite a lot, you can see where the transducer originally was by the white chalk outline.

http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb3 ... 0_0772.jpg

Here you can see a side view of how much the transducer is in the water.I have a metal ruler taped to the hull so you can see how low it is now.


http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb3 ... 0_0773.jpg

Here is a different view of the transducer.

http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb3 ... 0_0775.jpg


He said with a flat bottom boat the transducer needs to be deeper in the water than traditional " V " bottom boats because when you get up on plane the stern raise high up in the water and you will lose the transducer signal. I am going fishing tomorrow morning and will see what happens. Will post the results of my test run . Tug
 
Took the boat out today and put the transducer through the paces...slow/fast speeds, circles , deep and shallow running and the transducer performed great. Looks like the mechanic was right in that the transducer .( Airmar P66 )..needed to be deeper in the water column than normal. Tug
 
Back
Top