A new C-Ranger

Bob,
Thanks for your thoughts on the matter. My 1st thought it was a bilge pump. Factory John said there is only one pump in the boat and it is not that. I can touch it and tell it is not running...What ever it is you can not get to it. At least I can't. I'm hoping Jeff can track it down. The sound is hard to discribe on line.
The amp meter is a good idea. Worth a try anyway. The battery could have been drawing down since Wefing Marine got the boat two months ago. But why didn't it charge back up on the three time I know the boat was in the water running.
Captd
 
Almost guaranteed with your description of the low battery bank that the clicking is the automatic battery switch cycling back and forth between the charged battery bank and the low battery bank...this has been described in another thread somewhere here...
 
pat,
Tell us about the automatic battery switch. I have heard of low voltage cut out switches, but some how missed one which transfers power another battery set.

Where is it used? Has this been offered as a standard on the C Dory or Ranger line? Relay, or transister switching?

Our Tom Cat 255 arrived with no charging from the battery charger. (Would charge if you turned the 1/2 switch to "all" but not when on "off".

Thanks,
 
We stopped by the Ranger factory today - our boat, Island Ranger, hull number 23 is coming along great. I took lots of pictures of the boat being built - before the hull, liner and deck are joined - so I can see where everything is.

I also asked John about the clicking & dead battery. I don't know if Jeff got back to you yet or not, but he had already asked John as promised. The shower sump is right next to the hot water heater, and has a float switch to pump it out. It cannot be turned off - like the bildge pump. So maybe, the float switch is stuck?

Mac
 
Kim and I visited the factory just after noon. We saw the progress on Mac's boat. Won't be long now! I will look forward to your pictures. You can sure see the advantage of having the factory install electronics. I was thinking it sure would be great to add a piece of conduit with a pull string for any anticipated updates that are not selected at the time of purchase. I am still on the wall over whether to go with the auto pilot.

The positive of the assembled pieces is they have great access when installing hardward. The downside might be gaining access if you need to repair after construction.

Jeff is such a great guy to work with. He truly loves what he is doing and knows how to relate with people. I am so impressed with how he makes himself available to the customer. What can I say but great customer service. It is a deal maker in our case.

Spent the rest of the day cleaning C-Sick getting her ready for sale. I have a bond with C-Sick that is not going to be easy to break.
 
Go with the autopilot, it will be one of the best purchases you make, considering the size and style of the boat. Cruising boats make very good use of autopilots.
 
C-Sick,

If I were you, I'd go with the 6002 (rotary dial) type auto pilot right off the get-go. There are so many times the autopilot comes in handy.

Like, when you have to reach out and adjust a wiper, wash some salty or dusty splashes off, pour some coffee, clean your glasses, change to shades, enter waypoints, check the weather, read the manuals, gawk at the wildlife, adjust your shorts, get into the cooler, open a bag of chips, cookies, granola.... and on and on...

I mainly use mine in the point and click mode - just aim the boat and click. With the rotary dial, you can dodge a log faster than with the wheel.

I'd put autopilot at the top of my list of equipment on any new boat after now having one.

Just my thoughts,

John
 
I would have to agree, the Autopilot is money well spent. I never had used one before, but decided to get one installed on my Ranger. Since then my brother seeing how great they are, installed one on his Bayliner.
 
C-Sick":2lt7dzy9 said:
Kim and I visited the factory just after noon. We saw the progress on Mac's boat. Won't be long now! I will look forward to your pictures. You can sure see the advantage of having the factory install electronics. I was thinking it sure would be great to add a piece of conduit with a pull string for any anticipated updates that are not selected at the time of purchase. .
Click to expand...

I added conduit to our CD-22. Filled it up, too. Go with 2", not 1.5". See photos in
my album. I use a piece of 10 gauge grounding wire to add wires to the conduit. I
tape the new wire to the end and push it up. I could use a pull string, but they
have a tendancy to break or get jambed, anyhow.

Don't make the peices too long. You don't need 100% conduit from the stern to the
helm.

Mike
 
CPT-D...???? Wednesday... the clicking noise answer?? Was it the shower pump?

Jeff is a great person to work with. I can remember a particular conversation with him and Mr. Reynolds in the plant on Hull #1 of the TC255.....with particular attention being paid to the fact that one day, some where, in bad lighting, possibly on the water moving about... the owner/user of the boat will have to have access to "things" on the boat as to simply maintain, and or fix something.. change the batteries out ... They listened, larger access ports, ... PVC tubes to run things thru... things like that.

Auto pilot... don't leave home without it. Truly a welcome thing particuarly when on the boat alone.
 
Another very common, luxurious use of the auto-pilot is relieving the pilot to go around and place or stow all the fenders and lines!!! Especially nice in rough weather when you can't let go of the wheel for long.

John
 
mikeporterinmd":3nrxrhww said:
C-Sick":3nrxrhww said:
Kim and I visited the factory just after noon. We saw the progress on Mac's boat. Won't be long now! I will look forward to your pictures. You can sure see the advantage of having the factory install electronics. I was thinking it sure would be great to add a piece of conduit with a pull string for any anticipated updates that are not selected at the time of purchase. .
Click to expand...

I added conduit to our CD-22. Filled it up, too. Go with 2", not 1.5". See photos in
my album. I use a piece of 10 gauge grounding wire to add wires to the conduit. I
tape the new wire to the end and push it up. I could use a pull string, but they
have a tendancy to break or get jambed, anyhow.

Don't make the peices too long. You don't need 100% conduit from the stern to the
helm.

Mike
Click to expand...



For those unfamiliar with the tool, electricians use a FISH TAPE to pull wires through conduit.

50ft%20Fish%20Tape.jpg


The tape is stiff and can be pushed and pulled by the operator with the reel.

The usual operation involves pushing the tape through the conduit to the other end, then passing the new wire through the little loop at the end of the fish tape with electrical or another kind of tape as a secondary securing method. Then the tape is pulled back to the operator with the reel to get the wire placed correctly in the conduit.

Once you have one of these and have used it several times, you can begin to use it in a lot of other ways to pull wires and other things through all kinds of places.

We used the fish tape to great advantage when pulling cables, ropes, and wires through sailboat masts back in my sailing years.

Joe.
 
mikeporterinmd":2wbdurrl said:
I have a fish tape. The end was too large and the bare copper worked just as well
through the 7' or so of conduit.

Mike
Click to expand...

Good Job, Mike!

Sometimes you just have to be resourceful and develop your own stratadegy as you go!

Another substitute for the fish tape is a stiff shroud (cable) off of a sailboat with a aircraft or marine eye fitting on the end.

Joe.
 
We run two 1/8" braided dacron lines from the console to the stern battery conpartment. Each time we run a new wire, we replace one of these lines--actually one is long enough that we double it, and thus can pull it back and forth. There are often plugs on the end of depth sounder cables or NMEA 2000 bus, so one has to have plenty of room to pull these items. The conduit is a good idea, but it can become full at some point.
Also we pull tubing (for the shower and fresh water wash down) thru the same area.
 
Tug Thugs,
Been awhile since I could get on line. Forgot where to post. Maybe the power that be can fix it.

Yanmar told me to WOT once in a while at breakin the first 50 hours. Said the heat helps seat the rings. Not to hold it at that RPM, But vary the speed. Kind of fits in with what I had always thought about breakin for cars and trucks. Since repairs I am feeling much better about the boat and all the people we have behind us when we purchase one of their products. I highly recommend both.

One thing the manuel should include: is the bilge pump is on all the time. The switch when it is turned on runs the bilge pump all the time . When I picked up the boat one battery read 7 volts. Must have been on during sea trails and on after. That wasn't the clicking noise tho. I will test the shower today. that is about where the sound was coming from. Hopefully that pump has not burned out.

Anchor winch......anyone know how to stop slipping right at the rope ,chain connection. I am going to try taping....

Hope to get on down the waterway by tomorrow. No name harbor will be our next shot. It6 is on the other side of Miami.

Anyone heard of the " Forgotten Coast magazine? They did an interview of us and went on seatrials with us. Took lots of pictures. Article is suppose to be on trailerable trawlers. If anyone every reads it let me know. I thought my face would break his camera.
Maybe on line?????

captd
 
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