ACR battery switch

C

C-Wolfe

Member
I would like to replace my battery switch for an ACR system, I’am currently considering the BEP Square Battery Distribution Cluster or the Blue Sea mini add a battery (Model # 14152565 | Mfg # 7649).

Is there one that has advantage over the other? Any other system I should consider?

The boat (which is new to me) is set up with twin outboard (Honda 50), single start batter and single house battery, both battery will be replace in the spring. I do not have or plan to add an onboard charger as I normally just top off battery at home after and before using the boat.

Thanks for any input
 
You probably already have a 1/2/off/combine switch? If so just get the Voltage sensitive relay (Blue Seas 7601)--you don't need another switch. If you don't have a switch, then the Blue Sea mini add a battery would work as well. But I would prefer to put in a 1/2/off/all switch.
 
To place a photo in a post. Open the photo grapy and then Clic "Control" on the Mac, (Sorry I have given up on Windows machines) then choose "copy image address"

Click on "Img" and then insert the address, again /Img.

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OK--you certainly need new switches. The old one appears to have been a on off and combine. With separate switches for the two engines (?).

The conventional answer would be buy one of the:

bep717-140a-dvsr-2.jpg

Which is for two engines, two start batteries. and one house battery.

You could do two VSR one from each engine to the combined to each battery, and a 1/2/off/combine switch.

I don't know how your boat is currently wired. But the least expensive would be to use a VSR (ACR same thing), between the start and house bank, and then the 1/2/off combine switch. Both engines to go to the start bank. The only time you would use "combine" is if the start battery is low, then you would combine to start.

There are other ways, and the BEP (expensive) cluster above would be one way-with a second start battery or not.
 
thataway":1bb6it7f said:
IMG_1793.sized.jpg

OK--you certainly need new switches. The old one appears to have been a on off and combine. With separate switches for the two engines (?).


No, the main switch is only on/off, starboard engine as its own switch(make no sense why) then a parallel switch.


The conventional answer would be buy one of the:

bep717-140a-dvsr-2.jpg

Which is for two engines, two start batteries. and one house battery.

I only have one start and one house, any big advantage for two start? I don’t think I have room (or need) for that second one.


You could do two VSR one from each engine to the combined to each battery, and a 1/2/off/combine switch.

I don't know how your boat is currently wired. But the least expensive would be to use a VSR (ACR same thing), between the start and house bank, and then the 1/2/off combine switch. Both engines to go to the start bank. The only time you would use "combine" is if the start battery is low, then you would combine to start.

There are other ways, and the BEP (expensive) cluster above would be one way-with a second start battery or not.
Click to expand...

That is what I think will work best for me. I appreciate any advice or comment on my current choice.


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[/quote]
 
My only comment is why not get a battery for each outboard? What I have found is that the house battery in your setup hardly (if ever) gets used to "start" - so the house battery "seems" fine but can't handle the cca needed for a motor start. Unless you are disciplined enough to test the house as a starter periodically....

With the separate engine start batteries you can simply move them into parallel between the two start batteries if one goes bad. So emergency parallel is a convenience and since each is started off on its own battery normally all the time, you know they are good as "starters" and can deliver the amps. Until one doesn't start its engine of course....then go parallel.
 
I wonder if what I was thinking is not actually how the panel works after looking at some of the brief guides:

-Switch the Emergency parallel switch to on. Turn off once engine is started.
Note: When starting the engine with the emergency parallel, the house loads will not be protected from engine spikes.
 
Thanks krc, all good point, I will take that into consideration as I make my final decision on my setup. On the 22, space is at a premium and I’m not sure where I could install a second start battery, as it is, I can barely fit the one start and one house in the locker. Anyone with a 22 have 2 start battery? if so, where did you place them?

As for the battery switch, mine is located just forward of the starboard lazaret (where the battery are install) inside small storage shelf from the cockpit. Any other idea on where to install it?
 
I have had 3 batteries in a 22. One in the lazareet locker and two between the fuel tanks. (in a 2006 boat).

The problem with the on/off/ combine switch, is that it does not allow you to use the "house battery" as the only start battery. Lets say that the start battery shorts out. Then you combine the "good" house battery, and it is connected to a shorted battery. That is why I prefer the 1/2/off/combine switch.

The reason for the ACR and switches is to keep the engine start battery (and low voltage and spikes) from the house battery.

The "house" battery in a 22 should be capable of starting the 40 or 50 hp outboards. They should be a "marine dual purpose" battery.

It was not that long ago that the only way to start 40 hp outboards was pull start with a cord.
 
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Now I’m rethinking my choice of wiring/switch. As far as generator go, any issue or concern about having both engine connected together either to a switch like in the drawing above or to same battery?
 
C-Wolfe":1sbeeb08 said:
Now I’m rethinking my choice of wiring/switch. As far as generator go, any issue or concern about having both engine connected together either to a switch like in the drawing above or to same battery?
Click to expand...

Sorry, I cannot open the drawing to a resolution for the 84 year old eyes. But are you going to use the 12 volt output of a generator like the Honda EU 1000, or EU 2200? If so, these only put out about 8 amps. it is better to have a quality battery charger, even portable, and run it off 110 V at 20 amps or so.

To answer the question--no difference if the power source is the outboard charging system or a battery charger with the combiner, both batteries are charged when the voltage in one battery is over about 13.6 volts, and disconnected when the voltage falls below about 12.7 volts. It does not make a difference which battery gets the higher voltage.
 
thataway":39f6ekcr said:
C-Wolfe":39f6ekcr said:
Now I’m rethinking my choice of wiring/switch. As far as generator go, any issue or concern about having both engine connected together either to a switch like in the drawing above or to same battery?
Click to expand...

Sorry, I cannot open the drawing to a resolution for the 84 year old eyes.
Sorry, but its same drawing that I posted on previous post

But are you going to use the 12 volt output of a generator like the Honda EU 1000, or EU 2200? If so, these only put out about 8 amps. it is better to have a quality battery charger, even portable, and run it off 110 V at 20 amps or so.

I was talking about the generator from the engines, I read somewhere that having twin connected together is not a good idea for the generator.

To answer the question--no difference if the power source is the outboard charging system or a battery charger with the combiner, both batteries are charged when the voltage in one battery is over about 13.6 volts, and disconnected when the voltage falls below about 12.7 volts. It does not make a difference which battery gets the higher voltage.
Click to expand...

 
On my current setup, I have one engine wire to its own starting battery and the second is attach to the house bank.
Main switch control house bank and port engine, second switch for starboard engine and a parallel switch
 
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