adding a/c to 22 cruiser
- Thread starter rehab729
- Start date
There are several ways. For my 22's and 25, I have used an "Arctic King" air conditioner, 5,000 BTU set into the forward opening cabin window. By using mylar bubble wrap (Lowes) covering the windows and the shades, I have kept the cabin of a 25 at 80* in ambient temp of 105*. These will run off a EU 1000 generator. I either put the generator on a up side down milk crate on the swim step, or on the current 25, I had an EU 2200 mounted over the splash well permanently.
The Tom Cat I put a Coleman Polar Cub, Mach 8 9200 BTU. I believe that this is the best unit for the C Dory 22, 25 and 255. John of Cat O Mine, likes his cabin like a walk in freezer so he has 15,000 BTU (?)>. The EU 2200 will run the Coleman 9200 BTU unit. I would put an "Easy Start", slow startup unit on the AC unit. Then the generator can be run on eco mode. If you don't have the slow start computerized unit, the generator has to run at full throttle all of the time. This uses more fuel, and makes more racket. You can run the Honda generator off a 6 gallon remote tank, as long as the tank is close to the level of the generator.
The raw water cooled units take up a lot of space inside of the boat, especially with ductworks, raw water pump and compressor/evaporator unit. They cannot be run on a trailer. Many of us "Boater Home' in camp grounds, and the RV AC unit works very well. The RV units last at least 10 to 15 years, if cared for well.
Keep cool. The only reason I don't have the RV AC on the current 25, is I like to carry the dinghy on the roof, and it is harder with the RV AC. Also I have much of the space in the "Buldge" inside of the cabin ceiling with the camper canvas and life jackets, so not much room for the interior air handling unit.
You can see my photo album to see how I modified the roof to strengthen it for the AC units. I realize that some just put it on there. I believe that if you do it properly, there will be no issues down the line.
Please ask questions if necessary.
The Tom Cat I put a Coleman Polar Cub, Mach 8 9200 BTU. I believe that this is the best unit for the C Dory 22, 25 and 255. John of Cat O Mine, likes his cabin like a walk in freezer so he has 15,000 BTU (?)>. The EU 2200 will run the Coleman 9200 BTU unit. I would put an "Easy Start", slow startup unit on the AC unit. Then the generator can be run on eco mode. If you don't have the slow start computerized unit, the generator has to run at full throttle all of the time. This uses more fuel, and makes more racket. You can run the Honda generator off a 6 gallon remote tank, as long as the tank is close to the level of the generator.
The raw water cooled units take up a lot of space inside of the boat, especially with ductworks, raw water pump and compressor/evaporator unit. They cannot be run on a trailer. Many of us "Boater Home' in camp grounds, and the RV AC unit works very well. The RV units last at least 10 to 15 years, if cared for well.
Keep cool. The only reason I don't have the RV AC on the current 25, is I like to carry the dinghy on the roof, and it is harder with the RV AC. Also I have much of the space in the "Buldge" inside of the cabin ceiling with the camper canvas and life jackets, so not much room for the interior air handling unit.
You can see my photo album to see how I modified the roof to strengthen it for the AC units. I realize that some just put it on there. I believe that if you do it properly, there will be no issues down the line.
Please ask questions if necessary.
I have a 5K BTU window AC from Walmart. It is Frigidaire, although a lot of the small window AC units seem to have the same OEM. It goes in the center window when in use. It runs off shore power or a Honda EU1000 that gets mounted on the swim step on a folding step stool modified to hold the Honda gen better. There is a tie down strap to secure it to the step when in use. I also have a 3 gallon portable fuel tank (like for a small outboard) that is rigged up so the Honda gen can run for extended periods. The Honda gen feeds in through the normal shore power connection. Used this setup recently when cruising the Finger Lakes region of NY for most of August.
As mentioned the window AC unit has the advantage of being able to run when the boat is on the trailer. This is useful when "boaterhoming" or just when I want to work on it during the summer when the boat is on the trailer in front of my house.
The other advantage to this set up is that when the weather is such that AC is not necessary, the whole rig can be left at home or in the truck. This lessens the boat load (a bit) and frees up space (a lot).
One suggestion if you go this route is to get an AC unit with mechanical controls. The electronic controls can be sensitive to voltage fluctuations which can happen when running on the gen and the compressor kicks on.
As also mentioned it is helpful for cooling if you have window shades. We have them for privacy, but also put them up on the sunny side of the boat when using the AC. They help a lot.
A fan is useful to get the cold air from the window mounted AC to the berth (it has to turn 180 deg). We have a 10" fan that is placed so it blows into the berth from the cabin to get the air moving. Makes a big difference when sleeping.
As mentioned the window AC unit has the advantage of being able to run when the boat is on the trailer. This is useful when "boaterhoming" or just when I want to work on it during the summer when the boat is on the trailer in front of my house.
The other advantage to this set up is that when the weather is such that AC is not necessary, the whole rig can be left at home or in the truck. This lessens the boat load (a bit) and frees up space (a lot).
One suggestion if you go this route is to get an AC unit with mechanical controls. The electronic controls can be sensitive to voltage fluctuations which can happen when running on the gen and the compressor kicks on.
As also mentioned it is helpful for cooling if you have window shades. We have them for privacy, but also put them up on the sunny side of the boat when using the AC. They help a lot.
A fan is useful to get the cold air from the window mounted AC to the berth (it has to turn 180 deg). We have a 10" fan that is placed so it blows into the berth from the cabin to get the air moving. Makes a big difference when sleeping.
I purchased a Mach 8 Polar Cub 9200 btu rv ac for my 22' Cruiser, with the added heat strip. I was reluctant to do so because of the looks and putting a big "hole" in the roof. So I hired Mobile East Marine in Alliance, NC, a ferry ride plus twenty minutes away. What a neat and professional job they did! I can not recommend them enough.
I can run the ac with my Honda 2000 generator (of course with shore power as well). North Carolina summers get hot and humid and I now wonder why I waited so long. It cools the cabin almost immediately and makes sleeping wonderful.
I know a window mount would have been easier, but for me, it is not eye appealing and you have to take it in and out when underway.
I have a hatch mount ac that works well, but the same problem in and out when underway. If anyone wants to buy the 7000 btu hatch mount, $200 plus shipping or I can meet you within a reasonable distance in VA (Fredericksburg), NC (Washington/Bath/Belhaven) or on 95 South from Fredericksburg to Washington, NC)
John
Swee Pea
JohnnyD":vq61acts said:
The Micro-Air EasyStart 364 Soft Starter ASY-364-X20-IP
on Amazon here.
Or from Mirco Air: Here. About the same price. This page links to videos wiring diagrams etc.
Dometic used to make one which was 2x the price. There are some copies of the Micro Air around. The Mirco air is proven.
Do not just get a $25 large Supco capacitor. The Micro Air is a computerized unit that "reads" the current draw demand, and then gradually applies the correct amount of current to get the compressor moving slowly.
With the Easy Start, I have heard of RV's running 15,000 BTU off a Honda EU 2000.
I have the Honda 2200. It is improved over the 2000, in that there is a fuel shut off valve, and you can run the carburetor out of fuel...thus avoiding draining it or rebuild of the carburetor if you left ethanol gas in the unit.
