ADVICE OF TRAILER MEND

F

ffheap

New member
Joined
Nov 2, 2003
Messages
733
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C Dory Year
1983
C Dory Model
22 Angler
Vessel Name
Inn-The-Water
Hi Folks,

I have to fix my trailer, built in 1983 and came with the boat. The axle is to far forward, and it does not have any surge brakes. I went to a company that makes large trailers for boats that pick up the boat in the water and puts it on stands. He came highly recommended.

He said that he can put on two axles (tandem), adjust the axles so my tung weight is what it should be, and add surge brakes to all four wheels. He said the the State of Connectuit calls for surge brakes on all wheels. He said that the galvanized trailers are well made.

Cost is about $1,000.00.

What do you think?

Fred
 
Hi Fred,
Alaska doesn't require brakes on the size boat trailer I have for C-Farer, so I don't have any information on that bit. Some states don't require brakes until trailers get to a certain length or load capacity.

But when I bought the used boat/trailer, we had the problem of the tongue bobbing up and down over almost any little bump in the road. When I weighed the boat/trailer combination and got the tongue weight, I found that I had to add weight to the tongue to get a smooth ride out of it. The unit weighed in at 3800lbs. I had to get the tongue up to about 380lbs from 150lbs.

I measured the length of the trailer from the back end to the hitch in inches. I divided that into the weight. That gave me around 14 pounds per inch of weight. It looked as though I would have to move the axles forward about 7 1/2 inches to get the desired tongue weight.

We sprayed all the nuts, bolts, shackles and, just for the hell of it, the leaf springs, with WD40 and let it set for a couple of days. Then we sprayed again, jacked up the trailer and set the frame on blocks. Then we marked where the factory had put the axle shackles, figuring that the axle was square on the trailer at those two points.

We loosened the nuts and tapped the unit forward until we had moved both sides the same 7 1/2 inch distance. Then we tightened everything and tried it out.

Success! That rusty old EZLoad pulls smoothly and straight. The tea doesn't bounce out of the cup in the holder anymore when the truck goes over lines in the road and expansion cracks.

I received really good advice from other Brats before I tried this out. And I'm glad I asked. It saved me a nice pocketful of change.

Pat
 
Fred,

Ooops! Did I say I moved the axle forward? I meant backward.

Pat
 
I don't know about your laws way up north, but I can tell you what it cost me to have new rotors , brake lines, and a master cyl., bearings packed, and baring buddies installed on my Long single axle trailer done just this past week. Total Cost $503.00 .

Your quote doesn't sound too bad to me.

Mike
 
Fred,

The following is not an endorsement, paid or otherwise...

My single axle EZ-Loader trailer came with surge brakes, but they were totally rusted up and inoperable. I found Champion Trailers http://www.championtrailers.com/ and bought galvanized replacement drum brakes, new brake lines, a new master cylinder, and a wash-down attachment to wash off salt water from the inside of the brake mechanism. I ended up cleaning, replacing, rebuilding and learning a good little bit about surge brake systems.

I like the way surge brakes work, particularly with my new Toyota Tacoma. It's nice to have the trailer handle some of the stopping chores and not have to rely on the truck alone; particularly with a fairly light truck. When I put on the brakes I can feel the surge brakes on the trailer kick in about half a second after I step on the pedal. Nothing dramatic, just a little change in the hauling load, and it tracks straight with no wobble or wiggle.

Champion sell new couplers as well which you'll need if your trailer doesn't have brakes at all. My trailer (which from previous discussions sounds like yours with the old roller that fell off) uses the Dico/Titan Model 60 coupler. They have a lot of on-line educational information that I found useful, particularly since I've never very done much brake work before.

If you've got a grand to spend on brakes and don't like doing that kind of work, your estimate sounds reasonable to me. If you'd like to do it yourself and save some bucks Champion Trailers can be most helpful. I did it myself 'cause I'm cheap and I also want to know how all of my boat and boat-related systems work. Brakes aren't something to do a halfway job on, but the mechanisms and operating principles aren't too difficult. Heck, even I got the job done right.

Oh, and another thing... Drums vs. discs. I was all set to install disc brakes on the trailer since all the information (sales mostly) on the Web referred to discs as an upgrade from drums. More in-depth research explained to me that the operating mechanism of the disc brake requires more inertial pressure than does the drum brake. The more the trailer weighs, the more inertial pressure you'll get on the master cylinder (which actuates the brakes). I don't remember the details any more but I found that for disc brakes to operate effectively one needed more trailer/boat weight than I felt I had. I've got an '84 Classic on a single axle trailer which weighed in at about 3850 lbs.; perhaps within the reach of disc, but not enough for me to be comfortable with it. Anyway, here's the URL for their article on the subject http://www.championtrailers.com/DrumVsDiscBrakeArtcl.htm


Good luck.

Tom Herrick
 
Thanks Folks,

I believe that the price is fair, considering what a new trailer would cost. I could just have the axle moved to correct the weight on the tung, but why not make everything right. I am going to check two other people, and if they come in at the same price, I am going with this guy, and at the best time of the year., when his business slows down.

Thanks again.

Fred
 
Fred-

I've also been the Champion Trailer route, changing over to disc brakes from drum and switching out the actuator. It's not too difficult a job, especially if you've done brake work before. And you won't find parts cheaper anywhere, period.

On the other hand, the price quote sounds very good to me, especially for a second axle, disc brakes on both axles, and a new actuator. Probably couldn't get it done for less than $1500 out here in California, with higher prices in general, and at least $90 per hour labor rates.

Nice having two decent alternatives to choose between. Let us know how it works out!

Joe.
 
That sounds like a good price for the work. 5 years ago I had to replace the axle on my EZ-Loader under my sled. The axle alone (It was the torsion bar style) cost almost $500 from EZ-Loader. Then I had to purchase new brakes/bearings and one hub for it. The overall outlay was over $650 and I did the 5 hours of labor.

Trust me, you don't want to have a bearing failure like I did on that trailer. I had repacked the bearings the year before and had simply added grease to the bearing buddies before heading on a fishing trip. 5 miles from the boat launch the passenger side tire passed me going down the road! The weight of the boat bent the spindle. As the tire came off the hub the fender sliced the tire and then the ground destroyed the backing plate before I could come to a stop. I then spent 4 hours waiting on the side of the road for a flatbed towtruck that was strong/long enough to load the boat/trailer combination to tow it home. The tow alone was $450!
 
Hi Fred,

That sounds like a reasonable price to me, and you know you really don't want to do the work yourself. :wink:

You've got to do SOMETHING about that trailer. A 400 mile trip @45mph is just insane. And I don't want to follow you again either. Think of how much better you'll feel next year when you tow Inn the Water to Lake Champlain!!

Dun
 
$500 dollars for all that work and a 2nd axel with tires? Sounds to cheap to me. C-Otter
 
Gee Dun, you don't want to follow me any more? Im hurt.

I am going to get it fixed, one way or another. When we were in the parking lot, I could see how off the axle was to the other C-Dorys.

I shall let you know how I make out with it.

Fred
 
Hi Folks,

After hearing what you guys and others said, I went to get my engine winterized. The guy I go to who is a Yamaha Certified Mechanic, and does other things with boats said that with the weight I am towing, I do not need tandem wheels or surge brakes. He moved the wheels back about 10" to a foot. It seems to have solved the problem. Cost, less than $125.00.

Now a new problem. The tow vehicle needs either heaver shocks or an extra spring leaf. (If it isn't one thing, it's another.)

Dun. I shall be the fastest guy on the roads.

Fred
 
What are you using as a tow vehicle? Is back too low to the ground
now?

Mike
 
For what it is worth--off a trailer towing laws site:
"Massachusetts:
Independent braking system not required, unless towing vehicle cannot stop combination within legal limits."

Connectuit requires brakes if the total weight of trailer plus load is 3000 lbs or more. I suspect it may depend on where the trailer is licensed as to if you need brakes or not.

I think the price is good. We had dual axels on the 22, with brakes on one axel. On the 255, we have disc brakes on both axels.
 
Hi Folks,

I am using a 2005 Explorer Scout. It is the two door version. It stands up pretty well, but sags a bit when we have suit cases in the rear. I have a mechanic I trust, and I am going to ask him what I should do. I do notice that I feel the car is not the most stable when the rear is loaded. Sheila wants to purchase a new Explorer or other SUV with a tow package. We are waiting until we have some more money.

Fred
 
Fred, You've got plenty of Money. Do it now! You've been on an Island too long! :|

Dun
 
Fred, an equalizer hitch should help out the sagging problem. I am wondering just what you are putting in those 'suitcases in the trunk'!

John
 
Really it depends on how much you tow... (how often) .... for short trips your single axle is fine... but I tow long distances and would not even consider towing with a single axle... even a flat tire is a major event...much less a bearing or worse.... dual axle not only spreds the weight but gives you towing safety...go for it..
I also had an equalizer hitch installed... it makes for much safer towing, plus it removes any bounce... I even think the brakes work much smoother now... I only have drum brakes on two wheels, but my next conversion will be to four wheel disk brakes...

Joel
SEA3PO
 
Hi Fred,

Just out of nosiness, I Googled around for a Ford Explorer Scout to see what the towing capacity might be. I couldn't find any such animal as an Explorer Scout, but all the new Explorers have a towing capacity of 3500 lbs. Your boat and trailer would surely weigh more than that. Mine came in at 3800 lbs and it didn't have full gas tanks at the time.

Chances are your tow vehicle just ain't got the moxie to haul your boat and trailer very far with good safety.

I haul mine with '95 4WD Dodge Ram. The trailer is a single axle without brakes. We are 360 miles from the water and if I drive carefully, we make it just fine. I store it in someone's yard for a dollar a day during the summer so I don't have to haul it over the mountains and back each time I want to go fishing. (With the price of gas as it is, it probably evens out with savings in not having to tow it each time.)

Pat
 
A couple of thots, Fred...

1. When we were at Seneca Falls in September, you reported how difficult you found it to launch and retrieve your boat. I wondered at that...since mine couldn't be easier. I have not found a ramp yet (including Seneca Lake SP) where I was not able to simply float the boat off and on the trailer singlehandedly. My point: I think if you got a new/better trailer (rather than fixing up your old/existing one), life could be a lot easier and more pleasant for you!

2. $1000 sounds to me like a low bid! I spent $1200 replacing the four wheels and brakes on my trailer (= a tandem axle), including only $200 to a friend who provided the labor.

Happy holidays!
 
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