Advice on mooring my boat for the summer

K

Karl Konecny

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C Dory Year
2008
C Dory Model
22 Cruiser
Hull Identification Number
CD022801G708
Vessel Name
Nowhere Fast
I'm planning on renting a slip in Winchester Bay for a few months this summer. This will be the first time I've moored my boat for an extended period. I'd welcome any tips or advice on setup, what to leave on the boat, what not to leave on the boat, and what ever I haven't thought of. Thanks in advance!
 
Do you have bottom paint? Do you have a cockpit slant back cover. Those are two essentials, I would want for the boat if left in the water. Shore power, with a "smart" battery charger, not the one which comes with the boat. A good bilge pump and secondary pump, with an alarm if the second pump, which is higher than the primary goes off.

Water pools, at the back of the cabin bulkhead--not at the sump in the stern, when the boat is left in the water. Thus the necessity of a slant back or full camper back cover.
 
I have our 22' Cruiser in a slip at Aberdeen Proving Ground at the northern head of the Chesapeake Bay. This is the first slip for me and it came with bonus difficulty points: over 3' tides, no cleats, no rub rails, bumpers, or other protection against pilings. It's brand new and doesn't even have ladders installed yet (which can be quite dangerous if someone fell in unless they're proficient at shimmying up wet telephone pole pilings).
I pulled it out of the water for our trip to Northern NY and elected not to put it back in the slip right away. I may not keep it in the water for extended periods unless I plan to go out. I sleep better knowing it's parked on land under a cover rather than bobbing in the waves as Thunderstorms roll through.
I'm working on a better approach to mooring line height adjustment to accommodate tides. I'm using long lines, but the lack of cleats means it's clove hitches on the pilings and they inevitably slip down, yet resist going back up. A bowline loop is not any better. So I'll be experimenting with some sort of roller for lines fastened to pilings.
There are several helpful videos on YT about long-term and storm proof mooring.
 
Thanks Bob and Dan, Your advice is always welcome. One specific question: what to do about flushing the outboard after a day of use? I will have fresh water available and can use the flushing port, but the Suzuki manual says not to run the motor if you use the flushing port. I suppose I could tip the motor up and use the ear muffs but should I do that?
 
More knowledgeable folks should have a better answer but I tilt the motor up and rest it on the travel bracket. My mechanic said the newer four strokes drain in that position.
The bay is freshwater that far north so I’m not concerned about seawater so that’s the end of my marginal input. 😁
 
Unfortunately I am not a "knowledgeable folk"; however, I've always made the assumption (perhaps wrongly) that it is best to leave the engine in its down position. I figure salt encrustation (my main worry) is likely to occur most strongly if/when the passages in the engine dry out once the salt water drains out without a fresh water flush.
 
Karl, First, Yes, Bottom paint in good condition is very important because most of the time the boat will be stationary and STUFF attaches and GROWS :mrgreen: :evil:
Next on importance would be the cockpit cover. You need to keep the rain out. Even if you have functioning bilge pumps -- which only work if they have power (Yup, I know you knew that :oops: but there are so many ways that they can loose power.
As to flushing: I know there are "Flush Bags" that can go around the OB leg with floating tops so that it can be "filled" with fresh water during the flush and then tilted up to get the leg out of the water. I have seen them left on when the boat is unattended and the leg is not high enough to always be dry. I don't know if these bags were hand made or commercially available. I have seen black garbage bags used the same way.
Keeping a boat moored long term in the water is a whole nuther animal and not one I have experienced. Hopefully there will be some folks here who are way more helpful.

Harvey
SleepyC:moon

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We have a Suzuki 140 on my Caracal Cat, and would flush the block out after each day's fishing. Leave the motor out of the water. You don't flush the impeller this way, but it is rarely an issue.
 
I pulled Nowhere Fast out and brought her home after two great months moored at Salmon Harbor, Winchester Bay. I was able to get out on the boat two days per week. The gas I saved not towing to boat each time more than paid for the slip fee. I loved being part of the community on my dock and learned so much from my neighbors -- I was even surprised when I as asked for advice. On top of it all, salmon fishing and crabbing was stellar.
So, my bottom paint did its job well although the painted water line is a bit low toward the stern so there is a little growth at the water line. My trim tabs, trim tab actuators, sonar transponders, and submerged portion of the outboard mount are another story, all well colonized by barnacles. What is the best means to clean them off and how can I prevent that in the future?
I plan on leasing a slip next summer as well, it was a great experience.
 
Hi Karl, WOW, now you know where that real waterline should be. (That is why I raised my water line [so much] 4 inches, or to just below the second strake.

As to the appendages, (trim tabs, transducer etc.), there is a fix, or more than one. For temporary, which means about a season, Desitin, a diaper rash prevention works great, and is available at Walmart or Walgreens. It is really a zinc oxide ointment, but one dose will last a season. It doesn't wash off easily, or come of with running, will prevent growth and is inexpensive. There are also some spray on, paint things that work too, but I have not used them, so no comment.

Glad you enjoyed your dock stay.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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Well I smeared the zinc stuff all over my rear end, not one BareNuckle but the prop and lower end are a mess. Watch out where you sit if you follow my example, that stuff will leak out of your shorts all over everything. I am a big fan of some of the anti-fouling treatments for below water metal and a dip in the pond when you see growth. I know our old favorite TBT is gone but there are lots of very expensive alternatives at West Marine. Yup, our old standby, Costco, has large quantity Desitin for about a buck an ounce. Google bulk zinc oxide and you get under a buck an ounce. Keep that diaper rash off your prop, folks are watching. Bob Jarrard
 
I own my own helix mooring in Cape Cod (although I'm currently boatless).

For a C Dory, I wouldn't worry too much. Make sure you have good lines and chafing gear. And always inspect it when you go to the boat.

It'd be nice to cover the cockpit but it's not necessary. A good bilge pump would be very important though since the 22 is not self bailing.

Bottom paint is definitely a must. Even after a few days you'll start to get growth in the ocean.

I would get some bird deterrents. The spinning ones are very effective but you'll need 3 of them. Bow, pilothouse and cockpit gunnels. You can also get those streamer style ones that are kinda flashy and reflect light. Bird poop is a MAJOR PROBLEM on moorings but is able to be mitigated with proper items.

Finally.....the single biggest thing you should do is USE the boat regularly. Mooring boats have a high percentage of neglect. I would try and use it every few days or AT LEAST every weekend. The boats engine's, batteries and systems need to be used frequently to function properly
 
The APG marina is exposed to the north through east. The water is shallow in that area of the bay so any wind from about 300 through 85 or so will cause waves to hit all tied in boats broadside.

I was there yesterday as the wind picked up and noticed the Tideminders were doing an excellent job keeping the boat in place while simultaneously adjusting to the various waves. Sure, long lines can work in some situations, but given the proximity of the pilings I went with Tideminders for three of the tied down locations and am very happy with the performance of the product.

I would be happy to post a video of the TM in action if that is possible?
 
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