Air bags or other such systems

colbysmith

colbysmith

Active member
While at my brothers in the PNW, I was complaining about the ride of my F150 when towing over rough roads. (Too many of our national highways...) I had earlier installed the Timbren springs, which are just hollow rubber cylinders that replace the original axle bumper stops on the frame. With my tongue weight of 620 lbs, for the most part, they were pretty much in full contact with the axle, and on rough roads, it was like constant chop in the boat!
I still do not believe in putting a weight distribution hitch on a boat trailer. I don't think the single pole tongue is built for it, and it's not only placing more stress on the trailer tongue, but also adding some weight to the trailer's axles, along with the tow vehicle's front axle. Not to mention the additional weight of the WDH ball mount and spring bars.
My brother suggested I should get air bags. I had considered air bags much earlier, but the cost was rather expensive. Looking again, the cost doesn't seem so bad. However I came across another system. Roadmaster's Active Suspension Custom Leaf Spring Enhancement Kit. RAS. Air bags are prone to leakage at some point and require an onboard air compressor, or access to air to adjust. The RAS is a coil spring that works with the vehicle's original springs. I purchased and installed the heavy duty model for my F150. (The regular model was good for up to 600 lbs tongue weight, and the heavy duty model for over that weight.) The RAS does not increase the vehicles payload or weight ratings, but rather provides more "lift" mechanically. Using the setting for 40% additional load carrying, I had a rear end lift of 2.5". I can live with that, and I didn't notice any difference in the ride while not towing. Hooking up the trailer, I still had about a 2.5" squat as I did before, but now I'm back at my original height and still riding on the springs rather than on the Timbren hollow rubber cylinder. Driving a short distance to our local lake today, I noticed I still have a little "bounce" on heaved roads, but the ride is more comfortable. For the most part, so far I'm satisfied with the improved ride.
Just wanted to share this in case any one else has thought about adding air bags or some other suspension enhancement.
 
Air suspension in your tow vehicle obviates those problems.
No air bags. No weight distribution hitch. No added expenses.
No kidding.
What bounce?

My 2014 Crew Cab Ram 1500 4x4 5.7 Liter V8 Hemi w/3.92 axle ratio
hauled my CD 26 Venture, 8350 lbs*, no problem.

Aye.

*Trailer + boat (2 Honda 90s, 100 gal fuel + 25 gal water, some stuff)
 
I've used the aftermarket airbags with all the vehicles I used for towing. Works very well (IMO) and are not expensive. Last vehicle I put them in was about $100 for the kit and the labor was free (DIY). I check the pressure from time to time (usually when I haven't towed for awhile) and don't find that they leak only change pressure due to ambient temperature (e.g. spring, summer, fall).

Putting the bags in the springs when the ambient temps are low can be a bit of a struggle, but if you do it when it is warm out, it is not much of a problem.

I carry an electric air compressor in my truck for emergencies anyway, so adjusting the air pressure if necessary is not a big deal.

Normally, I leave the airbags inflated to the suggested loaded pressure (30 psi). Some people only inflate them when the vehicle is loaded and deflate them when not to often the ride. I find that the ride is fine in my vehicle with the bags inflated all the time and leave them that way.
 
I use a weight-distribution hitch, since I need a hitch extension for my camper. Tows great. For my springs I use Torklift Stabiloads.
 
I have a F250 towing Journey On, a C-Dory 25. I'd like to point out a few things.

First, any tounge weight goes directly on the rear axle, regardless of air bags, extra coil springs, etc. So, one is loading up the rear axle to the point of overload, though the truck may set level. The load rating of of the rear axle is in the owners manual. That's why I bought a F250.

Equalizer hitches are designed to transfer some of that tounge weight to the front axle by use of the equalizer bars. No argument they add weight, but the load they take off the rear axle and transfer to the front is certainly greater. I will say that I tried them on the F250 and transferred so much weight that I lost traction on the rear. I also have used them on a 1963 Chevvey C-10 and they worked well.

Boris
 
Boris, as I stated, the RAS does not increase the trucks payload or other weight specs. I'm still within the weight limits set for the rear axle. Even your 250 or 2500 will squat some with added tongue weight, just not as much as the 1/2 tons. It's also going to ride a little stiffer than my 150. What I like about the RAS system so far is that it restores the truck to it's stock height while towing, although it does raise it when not towing. If that was a concern I could readjust the tension on the coil spring, but then I'd still have some squat with the boat in tow. However, I still maintain my relatively soft ride either way. Equalizer hitches also add weight to your trailer axle, not just your tow vehicles front axle. That weight is via more stress on your trailer tongue.
Bottom line, the F150 is very capable of towing the load I'm towing with it. (The CD-25). I'm within the GAWR, GVWR, GCVWR and payload. I am however over the 500 lb RECOMMENDED tongue weight limit of the trailer hitch. Note the word is recommended!
:wink: Colby
 
The Road Master Set up is really cool and works well from folks I've spoken with. My buddie's son installs lots of them and speaks highly of them. My thoughts are that they are pretty clever. I agree you have not overloaded the rear axle from towing a CD 25. When I truck shopped the F150, there were only 2 axles: the Sterling 9.75 and the Super 8.8. Both have 34 spline axles with large bearings and a 4-5k weight rating...should be plenty of capacity for what you are doing. My only concern with the new trucks is the fully boxed thin wall steel frames, but it is probably just an unwarranted concern on my part.
 
The newer ford pickups, at least the F150's, have aluminum now. So probably even thinner. But they don't rust out in our Wisconsin winters! :) Well at least in the bodies. The frame still appears to be heavy steel on my 2019. Colby
 
Hi Colby. Two questions:
1. Did you remove the Timbren cylinders?
2. With the 2.5 inch lift, are you noticing any need to readjust your headlights for distance? With that lift, and not towing, you would have a forward downward tilt but it is cool that it comes down to normal flat when towing.

Thanks, and hope you saved some of that salt. That stuff is really expensive, especially if it is fresh :lol:

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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colbysmith":3c0tt6h9 said:
The newer ford pickups, at least the F150's, have aluminum now. So probably even thinner. But they don't rust out in our Wisconsin winters! :) Well at least in the bodies. The frame still appears to be heavy steel on my 2019. Colby
Click to expand...

Yeah the bodies are aluminum since 2015 and we have one. I am super happy with it, but the frame gauge is very thin in comparison to my 70s F250 which is 0.225 - or very close. And like you said, the new ones are still steel which will rust....it doesn't matter as they are not failing. Like I said, it's probably just me being grumpy old me as it's a totally different boxed-in design with crossmembers all over the place. It's roughly half as thick (but 2 sides instead of just 1) and engineered 10 times better I'm sure....probably even better steel. Worrying about nothing....lol....
 
1. Did you remove the Timbren cylinders?
2. With the 2.5 inch lift, are you noticing any need to readjust your headlights for distance? With that lift, and not towing, you would have a forward downward tilt but it is cool that it comes down to normal flat when towing.

Thanks, and hope you saved some of that salt. That stuff is really expensive, especially if it is fresh Laughing
Click to expand...

1. Yes. They would have interfered with the heavy duty RAS system. The heavy duty model also required the use of a spacer to move the OEM axle bumper stop slightly inboard so it would not interfere. (The regular model does not require that spacer.) Fortunately I had kept the OEM stops so was able to reinstall them. Anyone interested in purchasing my Timbrens?

2. Haven't driven it at night since installing the RAS yet. However, my lamps have never impressed me and I'm hoping with a little lower aim they will actually improve visibility. As I've aged, I don't much care for driving at night anyway, so tend to avoid it. :wink:

I didn't have much salt left after hitting the car wash on the outskirts of Anacortes. :mrgreen: And I tried those flush hookups on the outboards, both the main and the kicker. They do work nice. Nice not having to deal with the muff. However, when I want to run the engine, (like after doing an oil change), I wonder if I can run the engine with the flush hookup, or if I need to use the muffs to insure the water pump is flooded?
Colby
 
kaelc":usqipav9 said:
For my springs I use Torklift Stabiloads.
Click to expand...
This. Does not change ride height and, as the name implies, it stabilizes the ride. In my case (F250 with camper, towing CD22), dramatically so.
 
Looks like there are several good products on the market for improving loaded rides. I could see where maybe the torklift would be the least encompassing, being able to "disconnect" and "connect" when towing or not. So far, they all seem to fit in the $400-$500 price range.
 
For my 07 Tundra, the Timbrens have been pretty nice with my 22 Cruiser at 5K#. They have spacers for height adjustment, and when not towing I'm about a half inch clearance. With my cargo trailer empty, the truck just comes down to the top of the Timbren. NO noticeable affect on the ride until I start adding load.

I get the part about night driving and seeing. That's why I asked.

Guess you will just have to stick with buying that expensive Sea Salt.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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