Anchor Deck Pipe or Windless?

Al -

I didn't see your previous post, I guess - or it didn't click. Your spring steel idea sounds great. It would hardly be noticed, and should do the trick. There you got it!

I tend to agree with you on the warranty voiding aspect, too. If an little extra spring tension against the line will wear the thing out, it's not long for the world, anyway, and I scarcely think a manufacturer would have a problem with it.

Ain't boats fun?
 
Al and Mike-

While I'm going to wait awhile myself to see if my new, more supple polyester rope to chain splice passes naturally through the unmodified or assisted windlass workings, I also am thinking the spring steel additional finger is the simplest and most obvious solution if additional mechanical help is needed.

The stainless spring will have the following advantages:

1. It's simple and easy to build. No complex parts to fabricate, maintain, or operate. We all can build one without a machine shop, etc.

2. The shape can be changed by bending as needed.

3. The tension can be adjusted, also by bending.

4. Tension can also be applied (if necessary) along a larger area of the curve.

5. The shape will conform to the windlass shape and the addition will be largely hidden.

6. The spring need not push excessively on the existing finger all the time, saving wear and tear on it and extending it's life.

7. The spring can be mounted along side of the windlass, without drilling holes in it's base. Mike's right, it could be slip mounted under the edge of the base, but there's a gasket seal there that, I , personally don't want to compromise for the sake of preventing water intrusion.

What I'd prefer to do is to mount in along side and somewhat to the front of the finger so that it could push on the finger when it's displaced by the larger splice and then also continue around the windlass to help the splice further mesh with the teeth of the gypsy.

I'd make the device in two parts, a 90 degree based bracket to mount through the deck on the bottom, with the spring mounted to the vertical portion. This would allow the base to be made of any of a number of standard grades of stainless, while the replaceable spring would have to be made of a suitable stainless spring alloy. Acorn nuts on the inside of the spring mounting would prevent snags. The through deck machine screws could be #14's and the spring screws # 12's, as a guess.
Round off and finish all bracket and spring corners, and bend the front (leading edge) of the spring back (open) to prevent snagging.


This sounds like a lot of fun! Working on it is one of the best parts of owning a boat, at least for some of us. Now I'm going to have to go out and start rounding up the parts and playing with the fabrication, even though I 'll hold off on installing it until I'm sure it's needed on my boat.

Thanks for all your help in thing this through! Merry Christmas All!
 
Mike,
Since I work in a paper mill also, where would I be most likely to find a small strip of stainless spring steel? I looked in McMaster-Carr and they have it; I just don't need 193'.
TX and Merry Christmas
Al
 
MOOSE":33pdrmo0 said:
Since I work in a paper mill also..
Click to expand...

Now that you said that, Al, you got me wondering. So, I fired up a new discussion about occupations and am inviting you (and everyone else) to add to it. Just click right here and tell me what exactly it is you do in the paper industry, please.
 
I put an Aires Quick 500 vertical windlass on my CD this past summer and Sea Wolf is right, it is a nice piece of gear.

I also took note of the specifications on Marisafe's web site and was aware that it clearly listed as recommended rope diameter: 3/8"-1/2" (10-12mm). I was using 600' of 3/8" rode and and pulling it with a buoy and ring setup. The 3/8" is totally unaceptable fodder for this windlass. I talked with Marisafe today and at 3:25pm they removed their rope spec from the spec sheet and replaced it with 1/2"....period. So unequivocally the rope size is now set in stone for this windlass.

As Sea Wolf mentioned, they are recommending the polyester rope instead of the nylon. They also use a tapered back splice for the rope to chain union which they say will absolutely work with no problems. I assume this is what you got on yours Joe, and hope it is the long term fix.

I intend to enlarge the locker space a little by moving the bulkhead aft a few inches to allow a little more rode.
If I can squeeze in 300 to 400 feet I'll settle for that.
 
Mark- Glad to hear you've gotten Marisafe to clean up the confusion on the rope size issue. Sounds like we've got a handle on this issue and the correct fix! My new polyester rode and tapered splice seems to work fine, but I've only been able to use it a few times due to weather considerations and the holiday season, so will have to wait and see how the tests of time and wear-in work out. The splice does seem more supple and is softening up even more with use, so we seem to be going in the right direction.

Here's an idea for you to consider: You could take out an "insurance policy" now against having to install a locker drain later when it would be more difficult. If you cut the old bulkhead out to enlarge the rode locker, it would be a GREAT TIME to install a drain (as opposed to working down at the bottom of a hole later!). Because of the "double wall" nature of this area, the problems of sealing up the passageway would be much easier with the rear locker wall removed. I'd use the Perko fuel vent Mike did on the Tyboo I, which can be sealed with gaskets and sealant at both ends against the walls. He removed the internal screen for better drainage and also to prevent blockage by small particles from the rode. I'd install it, then plug it with a rubber stopper and leave it plugged until usage (water retention and/or condensation problems in the cabin) indicated it needed to be opened. Limited use and warm weather down here in California allow me to not need a drain, but you operate in a much cooler area up in Fairbanks than I do. Just a suggestion to consider. Hope this is helpful and doesn't burden you with undue complications. Great hearing from you! Stay warm in the -20- to -30 degree weather up there! Joe
 
Hi Sea Wolf,

Yep, we've got the rode size resolved. Marisafe seemed pretty confident that their recommended rode would work without any hitches (no pun intended). I'm under the impression that they performed the marriage ceremony
(ie: rope to chain w/tapered splice) for you?

Good thought on the rode locker drain, but I already installed the "Tyboo Custom Fuel Vent Drain" in the rode locker, sans screen, and it looks like it belongs there.

-32 below yesterday and I won't be in the water until probably May so I have a little time to work with on getting my rode made up.

Thanks,
 
MARK- Yes, Steve Paley at Marisafe arranged to have 200' of new polyester rode taper-spliced to my 15' of 1/4" chain for about $100, including return shipping. The 200' + 15' just about fill the locker up level. If you have the 300' or 400' of rope, you have to stuff it up there and figure out how much to move the wall back. Let me know how it works out! Good Luck!! Joe.
 
Al/Moose and Mark/2ndByte:

I've added a photo on page 2 of the Anchoring Photos showing a spring stainless steel finger backing up the plastic finger on the Quoick Aires 500 windlass which adds extra pressure and allows the rope/chain splice to pass through much more freely.

The stainless spring steel finger is actually a rudder lock for sailboats made by Schaafer Marine, part #82-01. It's West Marine part #252320 and is priced at $5.99. It comes with two holes already drilled in it, so all you have to do is drill two receiving holes in the side of the windlass, which avoids any more boat holes. (I know, we really didn't want to drill holes in or modify the windlass, but something has to be done!)

Best of all, it works great with my new polyester 3-strand rope rode and tapered splice, plus it looks good. If all you need is a little extra pressure on the plastic finger to make things work, this is the trick!

I used a 3/16" pop rivet in the forward hole, and a stainless sheet metal screw in the aft, so that the screw can be removed to re-bend the finger to apply more pressure if necessary, but you can do it without removing the screw.

I hope this is the last episode in this ongoing saga, but who knows?

Hope this helps!!! Joe.
 
Thanks for the update and the picture, Joe. Looks good and sounds like a great solution. Really appreciate the info and the "e" alert.

I'm putting together a little order for WM right now and I'll add this to it.

I assume you are getting Sea Wolf's bottom wet these days. Enjoy! I'm still a ways off, A couple months yet before we the ice & snow are gone. but I can feel the turning of the seasons.
 
Thanks for taking the risk, Joe. I'm glad it worked out. What you have done was initially what I thought would be the most straightforward fix (see previous discussions). I can't see any downside except for a couple of additional holes.
Al
 
Hi youse guys,
I was just down at the boat working on yet another prototype for improving the operation of the Aires Quick windlass. I don't know if it'll be the complete solution to passing the splice, but I'm sure it will help and it requires no additional holes. I'm going to get a piece of 1/8" x 1 1/4" x 6" long piece of SS and bore a 5/16" hole in one end. I'll remove the forward, starboard bolt on the bow cleat and replace it with a longer hex head and spacer. The other end will be cut just short enough to clear the base of the gypsy. The windlass housing actually has a notch on the aft portion. I plan to file this notch square as a stop for the other end of the SS piece. I found a chrome plated SS socket in the dumpster at work of all places and I drilled it out to use as a roller. I'll bolt it to the SS far enough back to clear the 1/2" rode and chain, but close enough to put additional pressure on the splice as it comes through. I hope you followed all of this. I think it should help the situation.
Al
 
You bet, Al, I follow you just fine. All you paper mill environmental engineers always keep a close eye on the dumpsters to see if some poor old overworked millwright accidently tossed an aerosol can in there. We would put the cans in the hazmat barrels for you if you didn't make us resnap all three latches on the lid each time.

Your plan sounds real good for getting the splice through the hole. I like the gizmo that Joe came up with, too. Both of you should be trouble free, now.
 
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