Anchor Drum Winch

N

Nash 22

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C Dory Year
2006
C Dory Model
22 Cruiser
Vessel Name
Anyfin possible
Hi -

Is there anyone who has installed an anchor drum winch on a C-Dory?
What are your thoughts on this set up?
Does anyone have any pictures?

Thanks,
Nash[/img]
 
Hi Nash,

To my knowledge, of those active here on the site, I believe there was one tried on a TomCat255, and it might have been Warren but don't remember for sure if he actually did it or just talked about it.

They take a lot of room, and and a bunch of weight from what I remember from the discussion here on the site.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

IMGP2460.thumb.jpg
 
Back about 10 or so years ago, we discussed some on a boat or two or so in Alaska.

Yes, they took a lot of room, but were useful in holding all the rope necessary for anchoring in deep water.

Features a simple design, and is perhaps more foolproof than using a more conventional windlass and the anchor rode locker designed into the bow of the boat.

Anything to avoid going forward on the bow in rough, freezing cold weather and water!

Very much a utility approach, but whatever works, works!

If you notice, a lot of the C-Dories in Alaska borrow lot of ideas from the commercial fishermen there.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Warren was the one who put the drum on his 255. My son has his old Lewmar windlass now. My recollection as we talked about his winch, was the amount of line it would hold.

One of the issues is getting enough line--using one of the synthetics such as Spectra which allows a very thin line with the same SWL. But...there is no elasticity and it is difficult to put a snubber on the thin spectra line.

Consider how much line and chain you want. See if you can find a drum winch which will hold this much, without too large a footprint.
 
ssobol":c9kg1yqi said:
There are a variety of "flat rope" vendors that I see at boat shows. The flat rope rolls up on a reel.

Something like this:

https://www.ultramarinewestshop.com/pro ... e-and-reel
Click to expand...

I often see those for stern tie use, but not sure the working load would stand up to anchoring loads. I wonder if the flat rope would "buzz" if it was down in a strong current. Just my thoughts.

Harvey
SleepyC:moon

January_2010_558.thumb.jpg
 
The vendors at the boat shows claim the flat rope is sufficient for anchoring. However, I think that it does not have the same shock absorbing stretch as 3 strand nylon.
 
You can buy Mil. spec. flat 1" nylon webbing with breaking strength at over 4000# for 38 cents a foot for 300 feet: That means that for $114 you can get about the same as you pay over $1000 for the "Flat line" which has polyester in it..

I picked up 200 feet of 3/4" parachute nylon tubing surpluses WWII, and used it for years, everything from winching a 2 1/2 ton truck out of the mud, to a stern anchor on a 30 foot sailboat. I suspect it was higher working load than the flat nylon. It did not have much elasticity. One has to sew the loop into the end of the tubing or flat --knots do weaken it significantly.
 
Thank you everyone for the information. This would be a great change to manually dropping and raising the anchor. The regular winlass does not appeal to me as I don't want wet rope in the v-berth.

Thanks again!
Nash
 
I had one of these on my Nordic Tug. They're pretty bullet-proof.

jd
 
Nash22,
If you do install one, let us know how it works out. I'd love to hear about it --sure others would too!! Thanks
 
olsurfdog":3a3vvqpc said:
I've thought about getting one. So far it's bulk and cost has held me back. Most all of the fishing boats around here use heavy duty hydraulic versions.
Here's one on Shearwater
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _album.php

This is a neat one a fellow Brat made - neat idea and looks like a good job. Be nice to have a follow up on how it worked out.
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _album.php
Click to expand...

I (Shearwater) love my big ugly reel windless, never found the front deck of much practical use so did not mind giving up the space.

Thing is a beast, uses a made in USA Ramsey winch motor so parts and repair should never be an issue if needed. Honestly I don't bother to power up on the anchor to pull, hit the switch, drag the boat up to the anchor and reel it in. Having visibility to the rode and chain as it winds on the reel is a big plus. Worst case you give the chain a shove to one side if it starts stacking up.
It's been 100% reliable over 5 years, shows no signs of rust and it just works every time you need it to. Change the gear oil every couple of years for maintenance and replaced one of the gearbox fill plugs with a vented plug.
Was so nice in Alaska, no need to go outside in the pouring rain to set or retrieve, cleat/uncleat the rode. Painless as hit the switch!

But I see the new generation is using an EZanchor branded motor and they no longer advertise as made in the USA?
So a little google work came up with
E-Z Anchor Puller Mfg. Co. was founded in 1990 by life-long entrepreneur George L. Towns in Ludington, Michigan. Since being acquired by new investors in 2011,

That "acquired by new investors" generally speaks volumes about model line changes. AKA made in china/india to increase profit now that George is not running the show.
New product line could be as robust and reliable as the original but there was an appeal about being powered by a highly reputed and respected USA manufacture when I made the purchase.

stevej
 
Steve, what is the footprint of that drum winch, Please?

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

1_10_2012_from_Canon_961.highlight.jpg
 
Going to be working on the boat today and will grab some measurements for you Hardee.
Fairly sizable package, if I remember right believe it’s loaded with 170’ of 1/2 rode and 30’ of 3/8 chain. Not a deep water system but good up to 40’ or so.
 
stevej":1l7pg8wj said:
Going to be working on the boat today and will grab some measurements for you Hardee.
Fairly sizable package, if I remember right believe it’s loaded with 170’ of 1/2 rode and 30’ of 3/8 chain. Not a deep water system but good up to 40’ or so.
Click to expand...
For a smaller total and deeper water (i.e. anchoring for Halibut), I've been thinking about a 3-part system. Anchor, chain, 50-100 ft or so regular rode, and then a lot of finer (and lighter) but very strong Spectra. I've been very impressed with using Spectra in runners (the sling between the protection "piece" and the rope) for rockclimbing, as it increases strength and reduces overall weight of what you carry. The stretch and energy absorption of a fall is absorbed by the climbing rope, not the runners, and Spectra is the primo material for them now. Obviously, fine, slick, Spectra won't feed into a regular puller as the chain and regular rode will, but with a drum system that won't matter. I'm also not crazy about the gunk going into my bow cabin. For regular anchoring, you won't even get to the Spectra. This stuff is amazingly strong, but doesn't stretch, so Spectra direct to chain would be too jerky, and maybe put too much stress on the anchoring system. Anyone tried this or seen it? Also, I was able to splice the regular rode to the chain nicely, but I'm not sure how to approach Spectra. Actually a knot or two probably wouldn't snag the reel system too much. Any advice or experience?
 
robhwa":3lytvp2d said:
. . .
For a smaller total and deeper water (i.e. anchoring for Halibut), I've been thinking about a 3-part system. Anchor, chain, 50-100 ft or so regular rode, and then a lot of finer (and lighter) but very strong Spectra. I've been very impressed with using Spectra in runners (the sling between the protection "piece" and the rope) for rockclimbing, as it increases strength and reduces overall weight of what you carry. The stretch and energy absorption of a fall is absorbed by the climbing rope, not the runners, and Spectra is the primo material for them now. Obviously, fine, slick, Spectra won't feed into a regular puller as the chain and regular rode will, but with a drum system that won't matter. I'm also not crazy about the gunk going into my bow cabin. For regular anchoring, you won't even get to the Spectra. This stuff is amazingly strong, but doesn't stretch, so Spectra direct to chain would be too jerky, and maybe put too much stress on the anchoring system. Anyone tried this or seen it? Also, I was able to splice the regular rode to the chain nicely, but I'm not sure how to approach Spectra. Actually a knot or two probably wouldn't snag the reel system too much. Any advice or experience?
Click to expand...

I toyed with the idea of this exact kind of system several times. Things to keep in mind about Spectra (Dyneema, as well):

As you noted, they have about zero stretch;

The are not well-suited for most knots - too slippery;

They float.
 
I like the concept of keeping the rode and chain out of the V-Birth. I also like the Spectra/Dyneema size weight and working load ratio. Still, that takes a pretty good chunk of space (Thanks Bob, for the brochure link), and don't have measurements but that foredeck on a 22 is just not huge.

Harvey
SleepyC

1_10_2012_from_Canon_961.highlight.jpg
 
I agree that Dyneema or Spectra would be ideal materials for the drum windlass. The joining of the Dyneema and a nylon section would easily be made by an eye place or Brummel splice in the Dyneema, into an eye splice into the nylon. There nylon would be a rope to chain splice to the chain.

One disadvantage of the Spectra or Dyneema is that you cannot make a bridal to the dyneema or spectra. (only if you were at the end where you could make an eye splice. )

On the other hand, many fishing boats world around use steel cable spliced to the chain on a drum windlass for their anchoring system. No more shock absorbing system other than the catenary of the chain. We do know at about 40 knots of wind, (depending on the vessel type) that the catenary disappears, and the chain starts to b some bar tight- and no shock absorbing effect.
 
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