Anchor handling on a 22

T

tparrent

New member
I'm just full of questions :)

Is it possible/practical to put my head and shoulders through the forward hatch in order to handle the anchor and rode?

I don't have the boat here yet so I can't figure out the contortions necessary for that.

I will be solo cruising and the boat does not currently have a windlass so I am working through anchoring options. I can always bring it back to the cockpit with a bridle but that's not ideal.

Thanks!
 
how big are you? I find it easy to stand in the front hatch and work the anchor and rode when I had the 22. I could easily get onto the deck if I had too to do the same. If its not really bad out its just as easy and just as fast to come around the out side of the boat. that's if you don't have the canvas and everything in the way. either way will work. I will say that the windlass is a easy install and well worth the money if you are going to single hand the boat.
 
I'm a little over 6' and 225#

I found going forward on the 16 to be simply too exciting except in the calmest conditions. The 22 might have more initial stability.

I will likely add a windlass very quickly but would hate to delay the start of my cruise just for that.

Most of the areas I will be cruising initially will have shallow anchorages
 
I have done this several tomes and it is not a problem, but I am definitely getting a windlass when I get a few other things out off my list. Sounds like you and I are about the same size.
 
I'am 6ft and 210, down from 220 last month. Its not some thing I would delay a trip for but the windlass is nice. its a two day job really. one day to cut the deck and take out some wood then back fill with epoxy. Let it dry a day and then drill bolt holes and mount the windlass. You can do the wiring while you wait for the epoxy to dry.
 
You write as if I would actually do that work myself.

Obviously, we haven't met :D

I am beyond clueless when it comes to any sort of mechanical/electrical/structural work. I'm downright dangerous.

That's part of the problem - I would have to schedule this remotely with a shop I don't know without being able to see the boat or the setup.

Better to wait until I have it home (which will be after 6 weeks of cruising).

Maybe I can get someone to schedule an install my first days up there. I probably have a couple days of outfitting to do anyway.
 
I periodically go out through the forward hatch on Triple J when setting or retrieving the anchor, and always ware my PFD. Don’t think you need a windless because everyone has one, the 22 is a little boat and really doesn’t require a large anchor. If you ever intend on anchoring up in deep water over 50 feet most windless systems offer little advantage over a buoy retrieval system. We often anchor in 45 to 60 feet of water with a 3:1 scope, pulling the buoy to the surface takes about 30 sec, pulling in the line and chain is than easy because the anchor is floating with the buoy. If you are in a tight spot this can be a problem but then you most likely will not be in deep water, so having ½” line will make it fast and easy.
The problem with a windless for us is the anchor roller, the anchor roller required for a windless is not strong enough buoy retrieval.
 
I have found a better alternative to going through the hatch or walking out to the bow of the CD 16 to set the anchor, and it was from this website. I have used it many, many times, and it is very effective and safe. While your boat is still docked or on a trailer, run the anchor rope from the stern to the bow, put the end through the bow anchor roller, then loop it back toward the stern. Have a 15-foot rope handy that is attached to an approximate 3" diameter ring. When you want to anchor, place the end of the anchor rope through the ring of second rope before you attach the anchor. Tie the end of the second rope to the middle cleat. To deploy the anchor, throw it over the stern. Pay out as much rope as you need to adequately set the anchor, and then secure the end to the rear cleat. When you want to pull up the anchor, it's easy. Just pull on the second rope (attached to the ring). The middle of your anchor rope will come toward you. Once grasped in hand, the anchor can easily be pulled up from the stern. I recommend using a plastic tub for pre-rigging the anchor and rope and storing it in the splash well for quick use. It is much safer, and in the event of an emergency, the anchor can be deployed in less than a minute. As for anchors, a large 7 pound folding grapnel works great on muddy bottoms and takes up less space. Hope this helps.

Rich
 
Starcraft Toms' picture prompted me to try handling the anchor from the hatch and I am 6' 2" and about 230 and it works fine.
 
Rich,

That sounds like a good way to go, especially for lunch or fishing anchors, but there are a two potential issues worth mentioning.
1) Unless one goes forward or through the hatch, with this system the bow roller is taking the full force of the anchor line. The anchor rollers are not really designed for this. Generally, one should tie off to a cleat to really set the anchor (with the motors). Also, in a storm, there's a lot of bouncing etc. and the anchor roller would bear the full force of that. Again a reason to be tied off at a cleat.
2) If the anchor should be fouled or somewhat stuck and one needs to use the engines to break it loose, you definitely don't want to be retrieving it from the stern as that can be quite dangerous and can result in swamping the boat. See for example this relatively recent and tragic incident.
 
Roger,

You have a large boat. I'm talking about a CD 16. My anchor is in the water on the bottom of the ocean bed, the line extends up to the bow pulpit, goes over the top of the bow roller, continues along the side of the boat, over the gunnel, and is tied off the stern cleat. Most of the force is exerted through the rope back to the cleat. I don't need engine power to set the anchor (human power is enough), and have had no problems with the anchor holding. If it were to ever become stuck to a point where it can't be freed, which it has not, I'll cut the line. A folding grapnel only costs around $20. Using engine power to free an anchor -- whether it is from the bow or stern -- can cause severe injury or even death. Not only could it unloosen a cleat and let it fly off in any direction, or snap a line -- it could also capsize a boat. I'm not sufficiently knowledgable on techniques for freeing stuck anchors in larger boats. It seems to me that use of engine power is a particularly dangerous idea in larger vessels, too. Perhaps C-Brats owners of larger boats could offer their advice?

On small boats, in my opinion, it is risky to go out onto the bow -- particularly when one is alone. I know, because I fell off of my boat while walking out to the bow; fortunately, it was in a slip. The approach recommended by a C-Brats member, which I adopted is, in my opinion an elegant way to safely anchor one's small vessel. On large boats, it's an entirely different matter.


Thanks!

Rich

Thanks,

Rich
 
It is very hard to explain in words how to deploy an anchor from the stern, yet it ends up secured to the bow roller with the end of the rope attached to the stern cleat. So I added a diagram of the procedure in my C-Nile Album entitled " A different way to deploy an anchor," which should clear up any misunderstanding. This is the last picture I will post to this album, because yesterday, I sold my CD 16.


Rich
 
Rich large boat or not, the anchor rode is still going over the roller down to the anchor. In fairly calm conditions, this is not a big deal. For an overnight anchor when weather might come up, one wants a tie-off to a cleat with no pressure on the roller (e.g. tie-off the rode on the anchor side of the roller).

For a lunch hook, short term anchoring or anchoring in calm weather, leaving the rode on the bow roller is fine. Since the vast majority of anchoring that most people do is for a short term stay, the method you use is great for many anchoring situations. I also think it's a very clever idea that's useful in that it does limit the other safety problem (going out on the bow). My point is that there are situations where this approach may not be the best idea.

As an aside, if one does have to go out on the bow when single handing the boat, deploy the swim ladder before hand, wear a life jacket and if the weather is snotty maybe even hold or tie off a line to stay connected to the boat.
 
The windlass is one of the accessories on the boat that makes cruising easy. Push the lever, the anchor is deployed, back down on it to set the anchor, then go out and cleat off the rode at your leisure. If we're just stopping for lunch, I generally don't cleat off. Ready to leave - drive up on the anchor, raise it with the windlass, the anchor seats. I never have to leave the helm.

Going out to the bow is only scary the first time. There are hand-hold as you walk the coaming forward, the eyebrow, and then the bow rails. When either of us go forward, it is a non-event. We haven't felt the need to use the front hatch to go forward... yet. After 5 plus years, thousands of miles, and lots of anchoring.

Tom, I think you'll find that this boat will be just as easy as your 16, but more stable feeling as you move about. And when you get your 25 in the next few months, it will be even more stable. :wink:

Best wishes,
Jim
 
One other issue--don't every "throw" an anchor--no matter what size of boat. It is a great way of fouling the anchor.

I guess I learned not to fall off boats when I was about 10 years old; having done it several times. We walk forward on the Tom Cat, 22 and 25 all of the time. If there is any question, do what experienced sailors do. Put on an inflatable life jacket harness, and clip on to a point on the boat. If you thing going forward in a C Dory is difficult, try it in 55 knots of wind, the boat healing at 40 degrees and 50 degree water swirling over the deck, as you drag a storm jib forward.
 
Last weekend up at a nearby lake, we parked behind a patio boat with a group of folks on it. When ready to leave Sue was going to untie the bow and I untied the stern. A guy from the patio boat (possibly inebriated) rushed to untie the bow for us so Sue stepped into our boat, the guy unties the bow, and goes to give us a might shove to clear the patio boat and apparently the C-Dory slides sideways way easier than he expected and he goes for a swim. The dooby he had behind his ear floated nicely. He ends up swimming over to his party barge. Nothing I could do but wish him well and thank him for untying. I told Sue in the future we handle the lines, no matter how well intentioned bystanders are.
 
lloyds":xtp7ghwn said:
Last weekend up at a nearby lake, we parked behind a patio boat with a group of folks on it. When ready to leave Sue was going to untie the bow and I untied the stern. A guy from the patio boat (possibly inebriated) rushed to untie the bow for us so Sue stepped into our boat, the guy unties the bow, and goes to give us a might shove to clear the patio boat and apparently the C-Dory slides sideways way easier than he expected and he goes for a swim. The dooby he had behind his ear floated nicely. He ends up swimming over to his party barge. Nothing I could do but wish him well and thank him for untying. I told Sue in the future we handle the lines, no matter how well intentioned bystanders are.
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I can relate to that. Early on with my 22 I found out that it usually easier for me to just do everything than to even have passengers help out. I've had people attempt to jump to the dock when I was still 3' away (not knowing that I would be 6" away 10s later). Also had people jump off with just the stern line in hand and then you can be pretty much screwed as the bow starts to swing away from the dock. Once I had a long bow line rigged so I could handle both the bow and stern from the cockpit, it was easier to tie up and untie myself.
 
Thanks for all the responses.

On my 16, I used a bridle setup similar to that described earlier and anchored from the stern. It was nice because I could adjust the set of the boat according to my desired sun/wind exposure. All super protected anchorages so I didn't worry about dragging or broaching.

I then switched to using a very small grapnel off the stern. Just lower it and cleat the line. It holds me fine for lunch stops which is all I do on that boat. The reason I switched is because I found it difficult to raise the big anchor and chain without dinging the side of the boat.

I am pretty sure I will go with a windlass but also have my spare anchor in the cockpit.

I will have a jackline setup so I can clip on and go forward. More of a retrieval line really as I don't expect it to keep me from going over but it will provide me an easy way to get back to the boat if I should fall. So just a line attached to the stern cleat that is long enough to follow me forward.

I always wear a lifejacket when boating solo.

Let me make one other thing perfectly clear. I am NOT going to get a CD 25 as Jim suggests. That would just give him too much told you so satisfaction :D I'll have to get a Tomcat or something.
 
tparrent":1iq213s4 said:
Thanks for all the responses.

Let me make one other thing perfectly clear. I am NOT going to get a CD 25 as Jim suggests. That would just give him too much told you so satisfaction :D I'll have to get a Tomcat or something.
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Yeah right. I give you 18 months with the 22 or 24 at the outside before you get serious about the 25 or the TC. Or just 6 months if you go on a long trip with the whole family! :mrgreen:

Charlie
 
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