Anchor Rehash -- New Anchor – Vulcan

[hardee]

Good find, and Harvey makes a good point about the anchor landing fight side up--but they all roll and set no matter how they land. (Even the hoop-less boss.

There are no strain gauge data (since this is an amateur film). So we don't have any idea how much 3000 RPM in reverse on a small Sailboat engine, equates to the 5,000 lb bollard pull on the tug or RV vessel.

I came away with an affirmation of the Bruce/Claw as not being a good holder in some conditions (sand where all of the others seemed to be almost equal). I had a similar experience when I winched a 10 Kilo Bruce back to the boat (was going to use it for a spring in coral sand). Tried different places in the harbor, huge scope, little scope--did not work. But one place only..Danforths were working very well.

Yes, I was impressed with the effectiveness of the Danforth (Fortress) and its set and hold capability demonstrated.

Realizing that they are both amateur and anecdotal (unfortunately no strain gauge) they were still informative. Bob is right that they will eventually turn right side up and set, some will do that in shorter order that the others but interesting to watch.

If you are carrying a Bruce on the bow, you should watch those videos.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

 

[hardee]

"The Manson Boss & Supreme both launch off the roller without hands on assistance. It isn't a concern with me due to having stainless protection on the bow, but I can see where the big Boss could possibly ding the gel coat on a rare occasion when retrieved, but our previous Claw caused dings & was the reason I had already added the protection long before the purchase of either the Manson Surpreme or Boss.

I'm one of those that are bugged by the Manson Supreme or Rocna bar causing view obstruction & prefer the way the Boss looks on the roller.

I too have used the Dansforth, but more because it makes such a good light weight spare & feel for all the reasons many have stated, they are a well proven good anchor, but feel these latest additions are a better choice for the main, where we have done most of our anchoring in SE Alaska.

Jay"

Jay, did you look into the Rocna Vulcan before going to the Boss? I'm looking that direction, but not Settled for sure yet. I agree, I don't want half a hula hoop to peek through.

Thanks,

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

 

[Hunkydory]

Harvey, as I remember it, the boss was the latest thing in anchors when I purchased it, but though I don't remember the Rocna Vulcan could have been out then too. I'm very satisfied with my 25# Boss, though I believe it to be way overkill for most on a CD22 & with the Boss's huge fluke area a 15# the just right size. I haven't read enough about the Vulcan to have an opinion on which would be better between it & the Boss.

Jay

 

[hardee]

Thanks Jay,

I'm not convinced there is a huge functional difference between the Boss and the Vulcan. I like the idea of oversizing (except when I am at McDonald's :shock:

I have 70 feet of chain, so probably won't go the double oversize, and I do have a concern about adding that much more weight plus the already on board chain.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

 

[hardee]

I am looking pretty closely at the Rocna Vulcan 9 and wondering if anyone is using that on specifically and how it is working with the bow roller/launcher? Also, any bumps in the gel coat from that combo?

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

 

[thataway]

I have had bumps with my Boss, and am putting on a "Scuff Guard" SS bow protector, just under the hull to deck joint, down to the first "strake" on the hull.

 

[Robert H. Wilkinson]

Ahhh, physics.
One of the things that isn't discussed when it comes to anchors is the density of the anchor material.
Mark

I seem to remember reading one time about an anchor that had lead encased in the tip to help it set. Anybody heard of this?

Regards, Rob

 

[hardee]

Ahhh, physics.
One of the things that isn't discussed when it comes to anchors is the density of the anchor material.
Mark

I seem to remember reading one time about an anchor that had lead encased in the tip to help it set. Anybody heard of this?

Regards, Rob

Yup. Delta FastSet, (Simpson mfg I believe.)

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

 

[hardee]

I have had bumps with my Boss, and am putting on a "Scuff Guard" SS bow protector, just under the hull to deck joint, down to the first "strake" on the hull.

Hi Bob,

After considerable thought, mental struggle actually, I decided on a Vulcan 9. I am sure it is over sized, just not sure how much (if too much). I can't say I like the big curved shank, but I like the shape and spade physics. I have not even had it in the launcher yet, but know it is going to be closer fit than my Delta was.

Would you mind expanding a bit on the Scuff Guard bow protector you are adding: Size, thickness, etc. Pictures? Would be great if you have time.

Thank you,

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

 

[thataway]

Will do, am recovering (I hope) from more back problems. and gel coated the "dings" today. I will sand and fair the gel coat in the am, and apply the "Skuff Buster" on line.

I had asked Jay what he used--and this is what. It is 22 gauge 304 SS, with 3M pressure sensitive adhesive on the back. It is pre cut, and supposedly has some line for the bend.

I'll post photos (hopefully tomorrow). My plan is to prebend it, with a 5/8" dowel for the "radius". I will pencil the line where it will come, and then mass with blue tape, putting a small bead of 5200 around the edges. They say to use a rubber mallet to work the metal to any contour.

 

[Hunkydory]

Will do, am recovering (I hope) from more back problems. and gel coated the "dings" today. I will sand and fair the gel coat in the am, and apply the "Skuff Buster" on line.

I had asked Jay what he used--and this is what. It is 22 gauge 304 SS, with 3M pressure sensitive adhesive on the back. It is pre cut, and supposedly has some line for the bend.

I'll post photos (hopefully tomorrow). My plan is to prebend it, with a 5/8" dowel for the "radius". I will pencil the line where it will come, and then mass with blue tape, putting a small bead of 5200 around the edges. They say to use a rubber mallet to work the metal to any contour.

Harvey, this is what I sent to Bob.

"This is a photo of the anchor bow protection I made from the KeelGuard product Scuff buster Bow Guard.

Its held up for about 7 years now. I had to cut to modify for fit on the top one & that was easy to do. The thin stainless is strong enough to protect the bow from the anchor, yet still easy to bend or cut for fit. The 3M built in glue has like, I first said, held up well so far. With your ability to work with most anything, you might want something more permanent, but for me it has worked out well. Here’s a link to one place it can be purchased.

http://www.iboats.com/Scuffbuster-trade ... _id.391906 "

Bob will be improving on what I did, as I imagined he would.

Jay

 

[hardee]

Thanks for that photo and link. That may be what i need to do, although I don't much like that it is 304 Stainless instead of 316. I have some 304 on the boat already and I hate the way it stains and rusts.

Great idea, Jay. Do you have to buff and polish that stainless to keep it from looking rusted.

Thanks again,

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

 

[thataway]

Thanks to Jay for posting his, and the link. I bought just one XL,

Hardy is right, that 304 may show more corrosion than the 316, which has 2 to 3 percent molybdenum added, to give it more resistance to Cl ion.

With good 304, the staining should not be excessive, and I believe that mine will get scuffed up--and when I clean it with one of the phosphoric acids, it will then become a duller finish, but doubt that I will have any streaks of rust....Depends on where the Stainless is made.

Here is my thread on installing the Scuff Buster--as you see I did it differently than Jay. But, Jay's is "Bigger than mine!" Mine is 10#, Jay's is about 25#! Because of this, I have not gotten any dings lower down--if I do, then I'll add more pieces.


My installation:
http://www.c-brats.com/albums/Thataway/ ... .sized.jpg

 

[Hunkydory]

Thanks for that photo and link. That may be what i need to do, although I don't much like that it is 304 Stainless instead of 316. I have some 304 on the boat already and I hate the way it stains and rusts.

Great idea, Jay. Do you have to buff and polish that stainless to keep it from looking rusted.

Thanks again,

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

Harvey, it definitely no longer shines like Bob's new application, but without any buffing, it only has some tiny specks of rust in the center of a couple dings where the anchor point hit fairly hard & still in my opinion looks ok, which after somewhat around 7 years, I think pretty good. Without it there, those small dings in the stainless could have been major chunks out of the gelcoat. Before the addition of the Skuff Buster, I had to repair several gel coat dings from the 22# Lewmar Claw, I was using for an anchor & the reason, I looked into the application of the Skuff Buster.

Jay

 

[bridma]

I think a bow protector is a good idea. I can see it being really beneficial for those of you recovering by a windlass from the cabin. I haul in by hand, but then my anchor is only a 15 lb Manson Supreme, easy to recover. When recovering and I'm down to the last 6 feet coming in, I make sure the anchor is 'lined up' and coming in away from the gel coat. I have never dinged the bow yet.

Martin.

 

[thataway]

I agree with Martin. I never dinged up gel coat pulling by hand (and the reason I have a bad back....)--some windlasses and anchors, no issue--other can be a major issue. Windlass brings an anchor in fairly quickly--and you have to have the 3rd generation anchors lined up properly. From inside the cabin, it is hard to know exactly where you are on the chain--some paint on the last 3 feet helps a lot to know when you are close to the anchor.

 

[Chester]

Any updates or reports on the Vulcan anchor?
I'm wondering how it rides on the bow roller.
Fisheries Supply has them on sale and I am weak.

 

[hardee]

Chester,

I wound up putting on a Vulcan and then because of the big curved shank I switched to a Rocna9, due to clearance when raising and angle of holding in the launcher roller. The Rocna gave excellent results last year. It launches and retrieves in the roller with ease, and did not drag one time out of 60 nights at anchor over the summer. It held in sand, mud, and rocky bottoms, and only gave me a couple of times of not hooking up due to thick kelp. I had one incidence where I retrieve a big metal framework of some sort. That issue was relieved with some head scratching and some extra line.

The Rocna9 is a bit smaller than the Vulcan, the "hoop" is not obtrusive, and I was very pleased with the result. As you can tell from the previous posts in this (and other ) anchoring thread, I am a fan of practical physics, and the spade or scoop is much more logical than the plow shape for a holding anchor.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

 

[Aurelia]

We have over 30 nights anchored on our 4KG Rocna which is interestingly only half the weight of Harvey's and have also had no problems on various bottom types and slopes. I think we have 35ft of 1/4 chain which is also half of Harvey's.


We have used mostly claw types in the past and they did not work as consistently for us in the NW.

Love it!

Greg

 

[thataway]

Greg,
I had assumed that Harvey was using the 4 KG Rocna, since there is no 9 KG Rocna, and the 4KG is listed as 9 lbs. This anchor has a surface area of 71 sq inches. (There is a Vulcan 9KG--and that is 20#--I was under the impression that Harvey had taken the Vulcan back?)

I did a rough surface area on my 10# Boss, and it is about 81 sq inches. We had it drag a few feet in some 50 knot + beam wind--but I suspect was just burying deeper.

In any case, the Rocna 4 and the Boss 4.5 (10#) are both on lower limit in size for a 19 or 22, but seem to be holding better than many of the traditional anchors. I still would recommend the one size larger for most C Dory 22 owners. I feel more comfortable with the Boss 10# than a Delta Quick Set 14#.