Last year I installed a windlass on my CD25 and it works great except for one thing. When I try to launch the anchor, it seems to stick to the lower anchor roller and won't drop. I have to go out on the bow and pull it free. I think I might have to replace the roller but before I go that route wanted to check to see if anyone has had a similar problem and knows if there's something else I should consider. It's a danforth anchor and when it sits in the roller it tilts to one side or the other. Someone suggested coating the anchor roller with white grease. I've never had to do that on any boat before. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Anchor Roller
- Thread starter SouthLake
- Start date
Jack in Alaska
New member
Marc,
I have wanted to put one of those on my CD but I pull the anchor with the boat and a buoy on the line. This causes quite a large side pull on the roller assembly. I would be afraid of it buckling. Pulling a 22# anchor and chain with 600' of line in 150-200' of water.
What are your thoughts about .??
Thanks,
Jack
I have wanted to put one of those on my CD but I pull the anchor with the boat and a buoy on the line. This causes quite a large side pull on the roller assembly. I would be afraid of it buckling. Pulling a 22# anchor and chain with 600' of line in 150-200' of water.
What are your thoughts about .??
Thanks,
Jack
Jack-
I can see your point as you would be loading the roller up sideways when it was still tilted down, and the back of the roller shank would be tilted up out of the surrounding channel.
Two ideas:
1. Call Lewmar {tech representative) and ask them for their opinion. They get all kinds of questions like this constantly.
2. Have a second channel made like the one provided with the pivoting roller, but have the sides made high enough to surround the end of the roller shaft when it's tilted up and the front is in the down position. That should support it when it'd tilted down and you put the side load on it.
The Lewmar pivoting anchor roller really works, and is the final answer to self-launching almost any anchor. I love mine!
Joe. :teeth :thup
I can see your point as you would be loading the roller up sideways when it was still tilted down, and the back of the roller shank would be tilted up out of the surrounding channel.
Two ideas:
1. Call Lewmar {tech representative) and ask them for their opinion. They get all kinds of questions like this constantly.
2. Have a second channel made like the one provided with the pivoting roller, but have the sides made high enough to surround the end of the roller shaft when it's tilted up and the front is in the down position. That should support it when it'd tilted down and you put the side load on it.
The Lewmar pivoting anchor roller really works, and is the final answer to self-launching almost any anchor. I love mine!
Joe. :teeth :thup
Obviously the problem is the boats name!
I looked at hour album and even though there are plenty of photos of the bow, it does not show details of the roller. You mention the lower roller--as though there are two. Most of the Danforth type of anchor rollers I have owned have only one roller, and the anchor weight takes it right off. Some times I have had to remove the anchor bail to allow the anchor to depoly properly--not sure that is an issue with you. I don't think that grease will help--and can get messy. The roller suggested by Marc certainly would help--or you might have a roller designed for a Delta or Bruce anchor.
I looked at hour album and even though there are plenty of photos of the bow, it does not show details of the roller. You mention the lower roller--as though there are two. Most of the Danforth type of anchor rollers I have owned have only one roller, and the anchor weight takes it right off. Some times I have had to remove the anchor bail to allow the anchor to depoly properly--not sure that is an issue with you. I don't think that grease will help--and can get messy. The roller suggested by Marc certainly would help--or you might have a roller designed for a Delta or Bruce anchor.
Morning Star
New member
Our CD26V came with a standard bow roller. We had a problem deploying our Danforth anchor similar to the problem described above. Marc retrofitted the roller with the Lewmar self-launching model that he referred to in his post. The anchor now launches without manual assistance.
At first, I was concerned about the side load on the assembly at the pivot point. I read the specifications in the Lewmar catalog. It is specified for use with any fluke style anchor up to 35 lbs. I interpreted that specification to include the side load. I have used it in fairly rough conditions in shallow water short-term anchoring where only the chain rode is through the windlass--no nylon to absorb the shock--and have not had any problems.
The only issue that I have had with it is that it will sometimes slip down when pounding through stiff seas. It is a minor annoyance that only requires that I hit the windlass switch up momentarily to lock it back in place.
I find that the self-launching bow roller solved the problem of the anchor sticking and requiring assistance to launch. I no longer have concerns about side loads on the assembly. Under normal anchoring conditions the nylon rode absorbs shock and reduces the peak load.
At first, I was concerned about the side load on the assembly at the pivot point. I read the specifications in the Lewmar catalog. It is specified for use with any fluke style anchor up to 35 lbs. I interpreted that specification to include the side load. I have used it in fairly rough conditions in shallow water short-term anchoring where only the chain rode is through the windlass--no nylon to absorb the shock--and have not had any problems.
The only issue that I have had with it is that it will sometimes slip down when pounding through stiff seas. It is a minor annoyance that only requires that I hit the windlass switch up momentarily to lock it back in place.
I find that the self-launching bow roller solved the problem of the anchor sticking and requiring assistance to launch. I no longer have concerns about side loads on the assembly. Under normal anchoring conditions the nylon rode absorbs shock and reduces the peak load.
Thanks for the responses!
I looked at the anchor roller (it's a Windline) and matched it up on the manufacturer's website to see what it showed. The Windline website says it's designed for a Bruce anchor. The ones they have for Danforth anchors look like the one Marc shows from Lewmar.
So..... I need to decide whether I want to change out the bow roller or change the anchor. Changing the anchor looks cheaper and easier. I think I'll call Windline on Monday and see if the mounting holes for their bow roller for my Danforth anchor match up with the holes that mount the current bow roller. If so, that would make replacing the current bow roller easier. Then I'll decide what to do.
Thanks again for the responses!
I looked at the anchor roller (it's a Windline) and matched it up on the manufacturer's website to see what it showed. The Windline website says it's designed for a Bruce anchor. The ones they have for Danforth anchors look like the one Marc shows from Lewmar.
So..... I need to decide whether I want to change out the bow roller or change the anchor. Changing the anchor looks cheaper and easier. I think I'll call Windline on Monday and see if the mounting holes for their bow roller for my Danforth anchor match up with the holes that mount the current bow roller. If so, that would make replacing the current bow roller easier. Then I'll decide what to do.
Thanks again for the responses!
We do not anchor with chain or rode taking the load over the roller or to the windlass. Neither are designed for this. When you anchor with chain, either use a chain hook/plate, or rolling hitch around the chain, to a nylon snubber (usually one size smaller nylon line than you use on the main rode. For example on the C Dory we use 3/8 3 strand nylon. The snubber should go thru chafing gear to a main deck cleat, not over the roller. The roller may or may not be able to take the load--but if the rode or snubber is pulled sideways, it can easily chafe on the roller. If a boat rides up suddenly on a chain only, there is a good chance of doing damage to the roller, or windlass.
I was anchored along side a friend--whose boat weight was about half of mine. We were both using 3/8 HT chain. I had a snubber, he had the chain directly to a chain stopper. A series of big rollers came in (large ship wake?)--and his chain broke--mine was fine.
I was anchored along side a friend--whose boat weight was about half of mine. We were both using 3/8 HT chain. I had a snubber, he had the chain directly to a chain stopper. A series of big rollers came in (large ship wake?)--and his chain broke--mine was fine.
On the Tom Cat it is fairly easy: I have a 3/8" 25 foot snubber line, which has a high tensile strength caribiner spliced into one end, and a chain hook on the other end. I just put the chain hook on the chain or use a rolling hitch on the nylon rode, and clip into the bow eye. (basically if frequently anchoring I leave that snubber clipped into the eye. This gets away from any chafe points. The Tom Cat main cleat is aft of my windlass.
For the C Dory 22/25 you can also use the bow eye, or put in a chock on each side and a 1/4 round strip so that the line will not rub on the gel coat.
Another option is to put separate cleats on each side of the bow deck.
For the C Dory 22/25 you can also use the bow eye, or put in a chock on each side and a 1/4 round strip so that the line will not rub on the gel coat.
Another option is to put separate cleats on each side of the bow deck.
First, thanks to those of you who replied with advice.
I did finally solve my problem by changing the anchor and removing an upper wheel on the anchor roller. The roller on my boat is a Windline BRM4 which is supposed to be designed for a Bruce Anchor.
I contacted Windline and spoke with an engineer at length. I tried a Lewmar Bruce style anchor and that didn't launch when I released it with the windlass. The shank and chain just went slack in the roller and the anchor didn't move.
I then emailed Lewmar since I have their windlass and had a Lewmar Bruce anchor. The tech rep I exchanged emails with suggested a Delta anchor since they are designed to be self launching. So, I contacted Wholesale Marine. I had purchased the Bruce anchor from them a few weeks ago to try and solve the problem and they took it back in exchange for a Lewmar Delta anchor and the price difference. They waived shipping charges on the new anchor.
The Delta anchor worked perfectly after I removed the upper wheel on the roller.
I have photos in our album.
_________________
Jeff and Deb
the Get~Aweigh
2008 25 Cruiser
Celina, OH
http://www.MontezumaBay.com
I did finally solve my problem by changing the anchor and removing an upper wheel on the anchor roller. The roller on my boat is a Windline BRM4 which is supposed to be designed for a Bruce Anchor.
I contacted Windline and spoke with an engineer at length. I tried a Lewmar Bruce style anchor and that didn't launch when I released it with the windlass. The shank and chain just went slack in the roller and the anchor didn't move.
I then emailed Lewmar since I have their windlass and had a Lewmar Bruce anchor. The tech rep I exchanged emails with suggested a Delta anchor since they are designed to be self launching. So, I contacted Wholesale Marine. I had purchased the Bruce anchor from them a few weeks ago to try and solve the problem and they took it back in exchange for a Lewmar Delta anchor and the price difference. They waived shipping charges on the new anchor.
The Delta anchor worked perfectly after I removed the upper wheel on the roller.
I have photos in our album.
_________________
Jeff and Deb
the Get~Aweigh
2008 25 Cruiser
Celina, OH
http://www.MontezumaBay.com