anchoring a CD-25
- Thread starter debutler
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We tried rigging a bridle on the CD 25 last summer: flat water, 20 or so knots of breeze, steady direction. The bridle did not help the sailing. The boat sailed as much or more. We tried many different combinations, including attatchment point at the towing eye for the foreward line. Using two lines on one side, one bow, and one amidships and one bow and one aft. Classically, you put a rolling hitch on the anchor rode with another line. Preferably this is slightly lighter than the main rode, and then take this line to the cleat near the pilot house window.
Probably the best choice is to drop another anchor beyond the extreme arc of the swing, or anchor for and aft (which is advisable under some specific conditions.
Probably the best choice is to drop another anchor beyond the extreme arc of the swing, or anchor for and aft (which is advisable under some specific conditions.
OK - Thanks for your response. I now have a plow on about 15' of chain spliced into rope rode running through a windlass. I tried a 15 pound river anchor (a modified mushroom type) in a hammerlock moor off the bow, but it's not heavy enough to stop the sailing and I'm reluctant to go to a heavier one. I am carrying a disassembled Fortress FX-11 on braided line as a spare. I had intended to mount the Fortress as the primary anchor, but the shaft is too long for the rest of the gear at the bow. Boat's on the hard now but next time out I'll try setting the Fortress at the end of the swing in the configuration you describe. Thanks again.
starcrafttom
Active member
Sorry for coming to this late but I have a question, a really simple question. What is the real problem and whats causing it. I know you all put in some really great answers for how to anchor and I agree with all of them. They all have their time and place. But what I noticed was that no one asked why he was swinging. Lucky stated that he was swinging in the wind and swinging more as the wind got worse. Well you should swing less as the wind gets worse. a c-dory is like a weather vain. the more wind the harder it is to move from side to side UNLESS you are not tied off to the center of the bow. Now all of us that anchor a lot and have a lot of experience know this, but lucky stated in the first post that he does not anchor a lot. If his boat has a chock on either side of the bow he maybe setting his line off of the side of the bow, this will cause the boat to swing side to side and I have seen a lot of folks, think bayliner, do this. They think the rope goes thru the chock, thats why its there right. Now I don't know if this is the case with lucky or not but I had to ask, none of the above ideas will help if his line is off center. Now my idea does not hold up if tide and wind are against each other. For that a rear anchor would do the trick.
Because of the large amount of windage foreward, and very little lateral resistance in the water, as the boat starts to oscillate back and forth sightly, The windage on the bow will cause it to go one way and the other. Wind is never exactly in one direction (as those of us who have done a lot of sailboat racing can attest. The boat will reach a certain point, and then come up short on the anchor rode, and then start back toward the other side
Even heavy winds (the most I have anchored in is 90 knots--not in a C Dory) the boat will sail to some degree. I have dealt with boats in one of the bayou's in winds in excess of 100 knots (makes for exciting time on the water!)--and the sail all over the place--causing damage) Some boats will lay better to a bridle. Generally those with a keel will do better. Some boats use a small sail aft to keep the boat weather cocked. If the boat had a lot of windage aft, she is more likely to weather cock.
My experiments this summer involved using the bow eye as an attatchment point, as well as the anchor pulpit.
I would not suggest the Fortress as a primary anchor. The reason is that once it is tripped (sudden reversal of direction of pull on the anchor rode, or even sailing to an extreme)--the anchor is light enough that it will not re set--it will plane or float over the surface of the sea floor.
A heavy chain or Kellet may also help to decrease the "sailing" at anchor.
Even heavy winds (the most I have anchored in is 90 knots--not in a C Dory) the boat will sail to some degree. I have dealt with boats in one of the bayou's in winds in excess of 100 knots (makes for exciting time on the water!)--and the sail all over the place--causing damage) Some boats will lay better to a bridle. Generally those with a keel will do better. Some boats use a small sail aft to keep the boat weather cocked. If the boat had a lot of windage aft, she is more likely to weather cock.
My experiments this summer involved using the bow eye as an attatchment point, as well as the anchor pulpit.
I would not suggest the Fortress as a primary anchor. The reason is that once it is tripped (sudden reversal of direction of pull on the anchor rode, or even sailing to an extreme)--the anchor is light enough that it will not re set--it will plane or float over the surface of the sea floor.
A heavy chain or Kellet may also help to decrease the "sailing" at anchor.
john schuler
New member
All boats do that to a greater or lesser amount. I toss out a downrigger ball
about 10 lb. on a short scope (2 to 1). Works well on a CD-25.
john schuler
about 10 lb. on a short scope (2 to 1). Works well on a CD-25.
john schuler
starcrafttom
Active member
Well yeah they all do it a little but I have never had my 22 do it a lot. No boat will ever just sit tight on a anchor , well unless you are in a river. The only time i have had a lot of sailing is when the tide and the wind are going against one another in a big way or when the wind is shifting alot. My biggest problem is dragging and thats because I have to little chain.
Rob & Karen
New member
starcrafttom":yfcxa5ch said:
Tom,
I thought chocks were a good idea to keep the strain off of the bow roller. I have a set that I need to install...working up the nerve to drill the holes. Are you saying they are not a good idea?
Thanks,
Rob
Anchoring in a river is a completely different story on a sailboat. Years ago I was cruising in company with a Sparkman and Stephens 35 which had a very bad night at anchor in the Hudson River.
A sailboat's keel is like and airplane wing on end and actually has "lift" just like its counterpart does. The swift current, and heavy winds, caused this boat to do tight figure-eights all night at anchor, causing me endless fascination and worry for my friends (and my boat anchored nearby) and causing them a restless night, dizziness and disorientation, along with accompanying nausea!
Nick
"Valkyrie"
A sailboat's keel is like and airplane wing on end and actually has "lift" just like its counterpart does. The swift current, and heavy winds, caused this boat to do tight figure-eights all night at anchor, causing me endless fascination and worry for my friends (and my boat anchored nearby) and causing them a restless night, dizziness and disorientation, along with accompanying nausea!
Nick
"Valkyrie"
starcrafttom
Active member
Rob & Karen
New member
Tom,
I am talking about chocks. Why are chocks not a good idea?
I currently go over the roller to the center cleat. My plan was to add two chocks on either side of the roller. I would depoy and tie off the same, and then lift the rode off of the roller and into the chock.
Rob
I am talking about chocks. Why are chocks not a good idea?
I currently go over the roller to the center cleat. My plan was to add two chocks on either side of the roller. I would depoy and tie off the same, and then lift the rode off of the roller and into the chock.
Rob
starcrafttom
Active member
I think they are not a good idea because they are not on a center line and you will swing side to side. Also I dont think they are strong enough to hold if you really have a strong yank. Now that is for the small one I see on c-dorys . I dont have any on my boat and tie to the dock straight from the side and rear cleats. Funny thing is that I have my lines rigged for tying of from the side cleats and people are always grabbing my line when I dock and trying to run them off the bow and I have to redo them. On a c-dory there is not need for bow lines at the dock.
starcrafttom":40ryqnkv said:
That may work in your part of the world where there are floating docks everywhere; it's not the case for those of us who deal with tides and fixed docks. Having the breast line further from the dock (as with the bow cleat) allows for more flexibility in movement. Fenders and spring lines are our friends.
Best wishes,
Jim
I am currently tied up to a fixed dock with a completely different set of lines and fenders than I would use at home. I was told they cannot install floating docks here because the hurricanes would tear them apart. Fixed docks are a real PITA, especially when there are not enough cleats to do a proper job of running spring lines fore and aft as well as bow and stern lines.
Warren
Warren
starcrafttom
Active member
been so long since I tied up to a fixed dock I forgot about them. So do you guys trust chocks not pulling out if you take a big wave broad side? and what size do you have and how are they attached? not just screws right?
If you are having problems dragging, you are not using the proper anchor for the bottom. (Back to my advice to carry several types of anchors, which are suitable for various bottoms). More chain may help--but not solve the problem. Some is also technique of setting. Lower to the bottom, as the boat has stopped. Let the boat slowly drift (or in and out of gear to give slightly sternway) until 3/1 scope has been achieved. Check and see if the anchor is set. Slowing let scope out to 7:1, and apply reverse power, to be sure that the anchor is set. When we were cruising, where we anchored at lest 200 days a year--we would give at least 60% stern power (enough to give 4 knots if we had way on).
As for chocks--if properly installed and backed, and the correct type, OK--but I tend to avoid them in the C Dory or other small boats. I tend to put cleats near the railing, and then put SS rub strips on the glass where the rode or dock lines would pass over the glass. As Tom noted, most of the chocks are not sturdy enough to take a good load, they are screwed in place, and may have sharp edges which can abaide lines. I do not take the full anchoring load on the roller---I like to use a line to the bow eye (shackle), but you can loop around the cleat and on each side of the anchor roller (with the snubber line)--that way you don't chafe the anchor rode.
The chocks I like the best have a SS base, which is bolted thru the deck with a backup plate. They have smooth / rounded sides and a captive pin on the top. These are Panama Canal type acceptable (if you are taking your dory through the Canal....) But probably overkill for the C Dory 22!
As for chocks--if properly installed and backed, and the correct type, OK--but I tend to avoid them in the C Dory or other small boats. I tend to put cleats near the railing, and then put SS rub strips on the glass where the rode or dock lines would pass over the glass. As Tom noted, most of the chocks are not sturdy enough to take a good load, they are screwed in place, and may have sharp edges which can abaide lines. I do not take the full anchoring load on the roller---I like to use a line to the bow eye (shackle), but you can loop around the cleat and on each side of the anchor roller (with the snubber line)--that way you don't chafe the anchor rode.
The chocks I like the best have a SS base, which is bolted thru the deck with a backup plate. They have smooth / rounded sides and a captive pin on the top. These are Panama Canal type acceptable (if you are taking your dory through the Canal....) But probably overkill for the C Dory 22!
matt_unique
New member
I was considering chocks for my Tomcat but one thing I like to consider is consequence to line jumping the chock for whatever reason. In the case of the Tomcat, if a line jumped the chock, for anchoring or tied up to a mooring (not a dock) the line would be applying force to the windlass or stanchions. I did not like this idea so I made these instead:
I need to read the thread about how to use a single word set as a hyperlink....(maybe it works now).
I used the stainless steel you see on top as a backing plate and chafe protector, underneath I used much thicker steel as backing plates. I also overdrilled/undercut/filled with epoxy paste/etc. This arrangement works much better for anchoring and for securing my mooring pennant lines. My only regret was the proximity to the anchor, I need chafe gear on my mooring pennant lines since they will rub against the side of the anchor. With chafe gear this is a non issue though. Also, I could not install the cleats any farther apart without moving far over on the other side of the stanchion.
I need to read the thread about how to use a single word set as a hyperlink....(maybe it works now).
I used the stainless steel you see on top as a backing plate and chafe protector, underneath I used much thicker steel as backing plates. I also overdrilled/undercut/filled with epoxy paste/etc. This arrangement works much better for anchoring and for securing my mooring pennant lines. My only regret was the proximity to the anchor, I need chafe gear on my mooring pennant lines since they will rub against the side of the anchor. With chafe gear this is a non issue though. Also, I could not install the cleats any farther apart without moving far over on the other side of the stanchion.
Matt,
Maybe I'm missing the link--but cannot see the photo--and didn't see it in the album.
This is why I like the captive chocks-or a cleat just by the railing. Probably dual cleats on the Tom Cat 255 would work, spread apart so that they would not chafe on the anchor or anchor pulpit.
My Tom Cat has the foredeck cleat athwartships just in back of the windlass, and is not a good location for anchoring. I use the bow eye with a snubber for the Tom Cat at anchor---but for temporary use, just look a large eye around the cleat and it will compress the windlass slightly. Again not the best. Eventually I'll put two more cleats on the bow one on each side--maybe all of the way out on each hull to make a bridle.
Maybe I'm missing the link--but cannot see the photo--and didn't see it in the album.
This is why I like the captive chocks-or a cleat just by the railing. Probably dual cleats on the Tom Cat 255 would work, spread apart so that they would not chafe on the anchor or anchor pulpit.
My Tom Cat has the foredeck cleat athwartships just in back of the windlass, and is not a good location for anchoring. I use the bow eye with a snubber for the Tom Cat at anchor---but for temporary use, just look a large eye around the cleat and it will compress the windlass slightly. Again not the best. Eventually I'll put two more cleats on the bow one on each side--maybe all of the way out on each hull to make a bridle.