Anyone done a dinette bed modification?

browntdb

New member
Has anyone done a modification of the dinette converted to a bed where extra width is added for sleeping but can be removed when using the table in it's normal configuration?

Thanks,

Terry
 
I live on my CD22 for up to 3 months in the winter, and sleep on the bunk converted from the dinette table. I've often thought how much it would contribute to my comfort with just a little more width to the bed. I haven't thought of a good way to do it, so I'd be interested as well.
 
I'll do some checking but I thought that I remembered a brat finding a cot of similar height and with the dinette lowered they were able to put a thin air mattress across making it a good sized bed. The only issue was obviously that it was more or less impassable when up but the cot was folded away easily and the air mattress was deflated and stowed for cruising or at wake up time. Then again I could be making this all up in my head...unfortunately happening more and more as I wait to get the boat in the water.
 
I removed my table and replaced it with a piece of plywood about 4 inches wider in the winter I sleep there. It doesn't feel like your sleeping on a plank, much more comfortable. In the summer I remove the board and put the table back and sleep in the V birth.
 
Someone, at either the Delta/Bay Extravaganza or the Catalina Offshore Adventure, showed me how they had done theirs. It involved boards that slid out from under the seats, like cutting boards in some kitchens. I do not remember how they handled the table. Not much information, but perhaps it will stir someone else's memory.

David
 
Since I asked the question, here is what I was thinking of doing. First, I want to minimize the amount of rework to the dinette seats and supports. Therefore, I plan to buy some 1/4 in thick high quality aluminum plate that will fit under the seats a few inches with whatever width I want coming out to the center isle. Thin aluminum would not require much modification to the existing seats or cushions.

I would support the aluminum extension by screwing two end caps for 1.5 or 2 in. schedule 40 PVC to the bottom of the plate, then buy the PVC for the legs.

Using this arrangement, I could remove the metal plates during the day and the PVC legs. For the center table section, I would slide it out to the same width as the extension and place an aluminum plate on the other side that is supported as well as hold the table top from tipping. Then purchase pieces of foam and cover them to fit the extensions. I would probably screw a half round piece on the edge of the extensions to hold the foam.

Doing it this way makes the extensions very portable and stowable during the day. The foam can ride in the V-berth during the day.

Unless I hear of someone else's idea that is better, I will build it and post pictures here.

Terry
 
browntdb":2mg7pses said:
Since I asked the question, here is what I was thinking of doing. First, I want to minimize the amount of rework to the dinette seats and supports. Therefore, I plan to buy some 1/4 in thick high quality aluminum plate that will fit under the seats a few inches with whatever width I want coming out to the center isle. Thin aluminum would not require much modification to the existing seats or cushions.

I would support the aluminum extension by screwing two end caps for 1.5 or 2 in. schedule 40 PVC to the bottom of the plate, then buy the PVC for the legs.

Using this arrangement, I could remove the metal plates during the day and the PVC legs. For the center table section, I would slide it out to the same width as the extension and place an aluminum plate on the other side that is supported as well as hold the table top from tipping. Then purchase pieces of foam and cover them to fit the extensions. I would probably screw a half round piece on the edge of the extensions to hold the foam.

Doing it this way makes the extensions very portable and stowable during the day. The foam can ride in the V-berth during the day.

Unless I hear of someone else's idea that is better, I will build it and post pictures here.

Terry

Cool idea. I like the simplicity!
Is this design wide enough for two to sleep, lets say 44 to 48"? Can you explain more about the metal plates, are they supported on the cabinet side of the setup with wood strips? Do the two plates also support the table by extending under the tables fore and aft edges a short distance?
I understand you will support the extensions with legs in the isle way. If you slide the table out into the isle way to match up to your extensions do you use a support leg in the isle for the table too?

On rereading your plan it seems the plates will simply rest on the cabinet edge by lifting the seat cushions, and there will be two legs for each plate on the isle side, a total of four legs, no table leg necessary?

Tom
 
Check Wayne McCown's photo album for "Little Mac" (page 16 of photo albums). cbgale also did a very similar bed - no pictures but you cold email or pm him for details.

Jay
 
With the table, I may need a leg. I will have to see. I will probably put a wood strip on the underside of the aluminum plate parallel to the isle side of the box under the cushion. That will provide a "stop" for the aluminum and keep it from slipping out to far.

It may require 5/16 thick aluminum plate, but until I talk to a supplier, I won't know. it might be that 1/8 in thick aluminum plate would work. it won't have a lot of bending stress because one side will be supported on the cabinet and the other with the legs, so 1/8 inch might just work. I will have to experiment. I will post pictures once I get this contraption built. Probably be later in May before I can get to it.

Terry
 
Here is my take on the issue and the fix. I am six one and about 250, so I understand the size issue. My wife and I lived on the boat for two weeks in desolation sound. On shorter trips I started sleeping in the dinette in part as result of needing an easy way to check our status without getting up, and in part so we could use one half of the cutty cabin for storage that could stay put.
So, the issue for me in terms of width involves the fear of rolling off the bunk. This has not happened, though I lost sleep thinking about the prospect of ending face down on the floor.
Plywood, legs, steel plates and such could make a fine bed with extra matching cushions, but this is a bunch of extra stuff to haul around. My solution is minimalist but has worked for me and will be used on my Alaska trip. The fix was to cut a five inch wide strip of 1" insulite the length of the bunk and install Velcro under the seat cushions at the edge and on the insulite. By placing this 1" of high density foam at the outer edge I would have to roll up hill to fall off the bunk. Problem solved and no storage problem.
 
Capital Sea":2wfw4b9i said:
<some clipped>
So, the issue for me in terms of width involves the fear of rolling off the bunk.

The up hill foam sounds like a winner!

I had the same issue, so installed an eye-bolt at either end of the bed, one in the center cabin bulkhead, and the other at the aft cabin bulkhead.

I then rigged a cord made up of a combination of shock cord (for tension) and rigid rope (for a solid limit) to stop me from rolling out of bed. (Once you feel/sense the cord, you stop trying to roll any further.)

I put snap on/off clips on both ends to allow it to be removed during the day, although when I'm staying alone on the boat I often leave the bed made up during the day to save the effort to make and unmake it, since the dinette isn't always needed.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Thanks, C-Green I will check out your recommendations. The other ideas for keeping from falling off the bed are great ones. Thanks. We just need more width for sleeping comfort.

Terry
 
Terry-

Another suggestion-

At least one of our members created a bunk bed above the dinette. (?)

Might not be any more complicated in the final analysis!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
DuckDogTitus yes I've slept there. I got two large hinged topped plastic storage bins at Home Depot (I think). They are a perfect fit across the stern with a shim under them at the centerline of the boat to level them. They do make the cockpit rather small but work great as a bench and for storage. Cut two pieces of plywood to cover them - weak plastic top. Then type IV cushions for 4 people sitting or a sleeping pad and bag for one sleeping. I have lots of screens and love the fresh air. However, when it rains you can feel mist coming through the Sunbrella. I also seal all the gaps and cracks in the camper top with rags or paper towels which helps a lot to reduce bugs.

Jay
 
Back
Top