Anyone using an auto pilot?

Yes, if the pump is big enough!
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A little more clarification on my earlier comments. My first autopilot was the RayMarine EV100. I forget what it's pump displacement was, but it was not enough to quickly turn the outboard as necessary in waves, chop or wind. It was really only good for going straight on a very calm day, at least when trolling. Eventually, and before heading up to Alaska, I got the Garmin Reactor 40 with the smart pump. That AP could hold the boat on course better than I could. And it could do it in reverse if you wanted it too. Even trolling (2-3mph) in 2 foot waves, or with wind, the thing could hold course. How good is it? I'd use it to run a track in the Blue Creek off the St. John's River by Astor. If you're not familiar with that, think very narrow and winding! I did transfer that autopilot from my 22 to my 25, and just as happy with it. I think the trick with autopilots is to get one with a pump big enough to handle your hydraulic system. It can then steer the boat at whatever speeds you are able to. Maybe better. Colby
 
As Colby says the pump size is important on control of the boat. The Raymarine S1000 & EV100 use a .5 liter pump & the EV150 a 1 liter. The Garmin smart pump is variable from 0 to 2.4 liters & auto adjust to the cylinder size of the boat

The Garmin 40 assembly can be purchased for about $2000, but if you want the smart pump like Colby’s it’s going to be $4000.

The Raymarine EV 150 is advertised to hold 2 degrees in all sea conditions with its present technology. It did this in 40 to 50 mile wind gust with 2 foot or so waves on Lake Powell at 5 mph. I’ll have to wait until next year to see how in performs in the ocean conditions I’ve seen in the past with my previous auto pilot. I payed $2000 for the EV 150 complete kit from Hodges Marine, then additional for the remote & all the seatalk network.

Jay
 
all the seatalk network.
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This was the other problem I had with Ray Marine. They have their own proprietary system for the network or NMEA 2000 system. If you are connecting it to a Garmin Chartplotter or just about any other system than Ray Marine, you'll have to get adaptor cables to attach Ray Marine's system to any other manufacturer. Whereas it appears that all those other manufacturers use cabling that is similar and does not require the adapters. Also, and again I am speaking of an older EV100 system, the Ray Marine autopilot and Garmin Chart Plotter didn't always play nice together. Or I should say, didn't always communicate well with each other. If I were to do it all over, and went with a Ray Marine a/P, unless I had Ray Marine chartplotters or other items to connect to the network, I'd use the standard network backbone system, and then run Seatalk adaptors to the RM product. Colby
 
I installed auto pilot in my new to me 2005 22 cruiser, primary purpose is for trolling while fishing for lake Ontario Salmon. Can't imagine setting lines, fighting/netting fish without it.
Tim
 
At slower speeds, can an autopilot really keep up?
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On our 22 with the raymarine system we did not have a problem trolling. Its what we used it for the most. But you have to get into the setting, something I find not every one does , and set the parameters as tight as you can. Know that the older raymarine systems , the s1000 and the like, where designed for sail boats in open water. So the base settings are not very tight. Example ( from memory, what little I have left) the amount of error allowed off the base line allowed is a 1/8 of a mile. Well that does not work for fishing. So go into setting and adjust it down as tight as you can for error off base line, turn up the speed to adjust or the " reaction time", The newer systems and the garmin , which is based off the old TR-1 System. Is a lot tighter and quicker as it was designed for fishing. Lots of good stuff has came out in the last 40 years I have been boating. Hell I would have killed for a simple depth finder that just told me the depth when I was 10.
 
The TR-1 was built for holding a heading while back trolling in a river with current. You set the heading and adjusted the speed of the kicker to allow your boat to just NOT keep up with the current. This allowed the boat to slowly, very slowly , slide down river while holding a course or heading facing up river. It was used to back troll plugs in the current for salmon and steel head. That is why those systems are built for much tighter tolerances. Just some back ground info for you. The Raymarine does not , or did not, allow for that. If your forward speed dropped below a certain mph or stopped, like when trolling into a current , the raymarine would think you where going in the wrong direction and turn the boat around to the " proper heading. Good way to tangle up your downriggers. I know and so does tech support at raymarine that much I can tell you.
 
I have the lowrance cable steer AP, I originally installed it on my 17' Montauk, however, when I sold it, the new buyer had zero interest in it, so I kept it. I purchased a 1985 Angler 16' installed it and friggin love it!!! The AP runs about 1200.00 and works on most cable steer boats (what we had before hydraulic steering). I love being able to sit back, keep an eye out for debris, while at the same time teaching my son how to...... you name it fishing related. set crab pots, rig fishing lines, tie jigs, whatever. And in the wind, it actually does a damn nice job.

I love being able to not be a slave to the helm when fishing. Ability to incorporate patterns (ZIZ ZAG, etc) into the course I want to fish.
 
I don't have AP on my 16 but I do on my other boat. I can't imagine usinging an AP on plane or really anything over 10 knots. But for hull speed travel I have really enjoyed it.

One of the nice features is to be able to zoom out and see the predicted COG. For many crossings when say the wind is out of the north and the current is who knows, it is kind of a guess as to what the compass heading should be for the next 15 miles to round a point. But zoomed out with a COG bearing line showing exactly where you are headed is great. I check on it once in awhile to make sure nothing has changed significantly. The AP steers straighter (usually) and takes into account wind and current. Saves time and fuel. Kind of fun to see how far "off" the heading appears when crabbing sideways across some open water.

It's unfortunate that AP performance in following seas is poor. When the stern is lifted, I can predict which way I'm going to get tossed and begin my correction before I'm thrown off course. The AP waits until it is off course before correcting. I'm still not steering straight, only straighter than the AP can do. I guess what is needed is a "smart AP" that registers the boat's yaw and pitch and learns over time how to precompensate. It could be spooky good.
 
Why would you not use your AP above ten knots?? They are use at all speeds daily around the planet. I used mine for cruising all the time. Its really as common as talking on a cell phone.

I aM just waiting of auto pilots to start using camera and LiDAR systems for total hand free steering like we are starting to see in cars and we are already seeing in volvo's assisted docking systems. https://www.volvopenta.com/assisteddocking/

Garmin is working on one also that completely docks your boat for your.

Yamaha is now putting the auto pilot drive unit in the out board its self and as a add on that mounts to the out board. No more hydro fluid and pumps. No more steering or shifting cables. Most of there new motor above 200hp are all fly by cable and its trickling down to smaller motors. Great stuff to think about
 
I have a RayMarine EV-1 AP, and I love it. And YES, I do use it above 10 knots at times. I covered about 300 miles one day, averaging about 15 to 17 knots for about 18 hours. Probably used the AP for 80% of that day. I have also, and mostly, used it for slow cruising at about 5 knots. That is probably more than half of the hours on the boat. One time, I used the AP to hold the boat into the wind, holding position so that I could photograph from the cockpit. Wind about 12 to 15, waves about 1.5 to 2 feet. (That was a wild time, but it worked and held position for about 15 minutes. (That was at a Powell River CBGT, where we did a boat parade in front of the derelict ships there.)

My boat came with the AP, but I didn't use it from the beginning. I remember one time crossing Juan de Fuca, when the light haze turned to dense fog. I knew my compass heading should be 180 but holding that with a mild (One foot) beam sea, and no visual reference was a real pain. After getting across and looking at my GPS track, I decided it was time to learn the AP.

Is Auto Pilot really necessary? Well no, but it will make your life easier, much easier, if you have one and learn how to use it.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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Correction, I have an EV-200 With the EV-1 heading sensor. The control head looks the same but the EV-100 is a much lighter duty and not up to Seastar and marginal for Baystar. The Ev-100 is replaced by the EV150. The ascending order in power and price is EV-100, EV-150 and EV-200. The EV-150 is adequate for the CD-22.

Thanks to a friend for the correction.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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Why would you not use your AP above ten knots??

Same reason I wouldn't use cruise control at over 80 mph or text while driving. It requires a skill set (largely imaginary) that I don't have.

We got into some dense fog a few weeks ago heading north on AP. Since I now have radar, I carried on with the fog horn sounding and all windows open. Close to Point No Point the visibility dropped to under 1/16th mile and boats were showing up on the screen. I looked at the compass and took the helm in hand in case I needed to make a quick manuever. I couldn't believe how fast I could get off course. No 180s, but darn close. The chart plotter kept track of my shameful performance. Need practice.
 
I would not put auto pilot or cruise control in the same class as texting???? In fact its the complete opposite. Your story of the fog kinds of makes my point. The AP will hold a line in the fog far better then you can. If your reason is so you can turn fast if you see something you dont need to turn off your AP. Just turn the wheel and depending on what AP you have it will turn of the AP or over ride it for a short time. When you release the wheel the AP will either take the new course or return to the old course depending on you settings. Yeah fog is where you most definitely want your AP on.
 
Tom makes a good point about using auto at higher speeds. While I and many others have found auto to be a near life-saver at lower speeds in dark or foggy conditions, that doesn't mean it isn't great for higher speed cruising. Especially on long open water stretches (for instance, crossing the Dixon Entrance on a calm day with a gentle beam swell), the auto does relieve tedium and does hold a course much better than manual steering. That is NOT to stay it allows you to stop paying attention! I never leave the helm. Never. I don't read a book. I don't text on a phone. With the auto, I actually spend more time watching for logs and debris instead of constantly checking my course against a chart line or compass heading. It's a tool, and a great one at that. Get a good unit. Set it up correctly. Know how it works. Get comfortable with it. If you keep your hands free and on or near the throttle and the steering controls, there is no reason to avoid using the auto at normal cruising speeds.
 
Bill, (Noro Lim) said:
" . . . the auto does relieve tedium and does hold a course much better than manual steering. That is NOT to stay it allows you to stop paying attention! I never leave the helm. Never. I don't read a book. I don't text on a phone. With the auto, I actually spend more time watching for logs and debris instead of constantly checking my course against a chart line or compass heading. It's a tool, and a great one at that. . . ."
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TOTALLY. AGREE.

The AP is probably the most appreciated of the electronics on board, but the radar and AIS are used (passively) more often.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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