Bait tank install

C

CDory23

New member
I found a deal on a Kodiak 22gal bait tank I couldn't pass up. It came with everything needed for install but only problem is the tank is about 6 to 8 inches short for draining in the splashwell. My first consideration was screwing a few pieces of starboard together but I"m thinking there has to be a better solution. I don't see an easy way of mounting it in the splashwell because of plans I have to build a cooler/storage area there. This is a tank that I want to be easily removable and most likely strapped in for security.

Any ideas on a platform to give it that extra height?
 
I noticed I have a thru-hull fitting plumbed to my portside lazarette for a drain. I will see if this 1/2" fitting will keep up with the live well pump. I do not need a drain in that lazarette as I use it for dry storage.
 
You can always "throttle down" the output of a live well pump--or many live wells just let the water go out of some vent holes near the top of the tank.

22 gallons is going to be over 176 lbs,(Water/bait, plus weight of tank, pump etc) so you may want to factor in what effect that will have on the trim and handling of the C Dory 22.--or make the overflow at a lower level, so you have less weight.
 
Thanks for the comments. I did consider the weight factor. Since my permatrims have been installed I have been extremely happy with my trim performance on the boat. I've had over that weight in the back with people just to test out performace and it did great. I was considering trim tabs but with the twins I"m happy enough with the lateral trim I get out of the permatrims as well.

It is a 500gph pump and I will either attach a ball valve in the fill line to throttle back or I will install a larger thru hull to be able to drain. Depends on how well the bait does with the flow restriction.

The annoying factor now I can't seem to fix is the tabs that secure the bait tank in place when it is not in boat. I can't find a good strap down solution and those tabs look like they will be a tripping hazard when tank is removed.
 
I still can't find a solution to securing the tank. It looks like the 4 L brackets that it came with would be the best solution. To aviod a tripping/stubbing toe hazard when tank is not in place I'm thinking there has to be a way to tap or find some sort of nut to epoxy in place on the cockpit floor to have the L brackets removable.

Any ideas or has anyone have a waterproof way of essentially tapping into the floor?
 
I have used the inserted barrel threads into epoxy on another boat, and used flush mounted SS hex head set screw to keep the threads clear.

The one pictured is 1/4" thread, but they are available on up in size. 1/4" should be fine for what you want.

51nccNhARBL._SY450_.jpg

This avoids having any tabs or other obstruction on the cockpit floor. You can then use machine screws to hold the tabs in place with the bait tank.
 
Thanks for the replies

Roger, Those earlier postings had a lot of good ideas and I"m on the same page as you with the concern of the slipping with the "grip" pads as well as the comment of water setting in the recesses when the bait tank is not in place. I like the barrel threads Bob suggeested and maybe when not in use securing bolts into them with a rubber washer to seal out any water from entering. I am still going to do a bit more research but will be acting soon. Halibut/striper season in the bay is picking up and I want to keep my bait heathy!

It will be interesting to see what we both decide.
 
Ok! It looks like I found the solution. I'm not sure why I didn't see this before. Kodiak sells "quick disconnect mounting pads" that permanently are attached to cockpit floor and set almost flush. The L brackets then attach to these mounting pads.

It is item #C on the below link

http://www.kodiakmarine.com/bait_tank_accessories.html

I'm not sure why it says it ony fits the PF 52 tank since I believe the L brackets for these tanks are all standard. I also found another post where someone used these for his 14gal kodiak. I will call before ordering but this looks like a good solution to me.
 
The reason I used the hex head set screw, is that the barrel nut is set flush to the floor. The set screw in place has no protuberance above the deck level. This is small, and you will not slip, stub a toe, trip etc on it. The set screw also prevents any water from getting into the barrel nut.
 
Back
Top