Battery Switch Location

T

Tug

Active member
Joined
Jun 22, 2007
Messages
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C Dory Year
1985
C Dory Model
22 Angler
Hull Identification Number
DOR22241H585
Vessel Name
Drifter
I still have not started my battery switch project...have the battery switch, enough # 4 welding cable..lugs.....The location for the switch that i had first picked probably isn't the safest place there is...on the splash well wall....toooo wet there. My question is...where have others with pre-1987 C-Dory's placed their battery switch and does the battery switch have to be protected from the elements/rain. Thanks Tug
 
I like to place my battery switch so that it is protected. I have done both under hatches, or under splash wells (various types of boats)--or even thru the wall of a area which has a enclosed space. For example my Caracal, as a lararette simlar to the C Dory22. I used a Hella Windlass Circut on/off switch--with the terminals on the inside of the lazarette, and the neck of the switch to the cockpit. I cover the neck with a slip on crutch tip to protect it, when the switch is not "on", and the Key is out of it. This also is a secondary security system, since you need the red "Key" to turn the battery on. You can mout some of the 1/2/all/off, switches with the lever outside, and a cut out for the terminals thru the fiberglass, or the flush mounted swithch inside--use screw head grommets for the bolts, for a finished look.
 
Would it be too long a cable run to put the Perko Battery Switch on the inside of the cabin bulkhead...it would be more secure and protected from the elements.Have anyone done this and what gauge battery or # arc welding cable would you need.Thanks Tug
 
Tug-

The cable run forward to the cabin and back would add a lot of resistance and voltage loss without using very large cables, and probably isn't necessary.

You've got a perfectly good spot right inside the engine well under the bait cutting board or table.

I'd mount the switch under the fish cutting board right alongside the battery boxes on the backside of the front wall of that engine well bulkhead (see photo below).

If I thought the well was not protected enough right there, I'd put the switch inside a plastic box in there, sealing if off from the splash water in the well.

Another possibility would be to mount it right there, with the shaft protruding forward into the cockpit with the switch knob accessible without removing the fish bait table , especially if removing the table to turn the switch on and off was difficult.

P8090043.sized.jpg


P8090064.sized.jpg


MARINE BATTERY SWITCHES LINK

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Joe...i owe you a beer.lol....I was going to install the switch under the cutting board but i thought it might get wet there....the plastic box is a great idea. Problem solved..thanks....Tug
 
My new to me c-dory only has one battery. I would like to add a second one. It has a Blue Seas battery switch which has a on and off. Would you put a second swith in for 1,2,both or would you replace that blue seas swith with one for two batteries? also since there is a alternator in the kicker motor, would you connect that to the second battery?
 
rob bauerle":18j1rkat said:
My new to me c-dory only has one battery. I would like to add a second one. It has a Blue Seas battery switch which has a on and off. Would you put a second swith in for 1,2,both or would you replace that blue seas swith with one for two batteries? also since there is a alternator in the kicker motor, would you connect that to the second battery?
Click to expand...

I'd use the regular type "Off,1,both,2" switch for the main motor and the two batteries, then take the off/on switch you have now and connect the alternator in the kicker to the "both" terminal, so you could run the output into both batteries when using the kicker, but also be able to isolate it.

Of course, someone may have a better idea!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Thanks for the replay. Sorry didn't get back to you sooner but had to take the wife to see Wicked which wasn't cheap but like my wife says,"hell of a lot cheaper than that boat"
 
rob bauerle":m0q529wo said:
Thanks for the replay. Sorry didn't get back to you sooner but had to take the wife to see Wicked which wasn't cheap but like my wife says,"hell of a lot cheaper than that boat"
Click to expand...

Rob-

Well, you could tell her that the boat is cheaper than keeping another woman at the ready (read mistress), or keeping BOTH the boat and the mistress! :twisted:

Right after you say it, I think you should duck, or run for cover, or both. :wink

Have a nice weekend in the Dog House, or where ever you find refuge! :lol:

Joe :teeth :thup
 
Nope than i would be sleeping in the boat all the time
 
Battery Switching suggestion:

If you use the manual "off, 1,both,2" battery selector switch you can run the risk of damaging the charge circuit of the engine if the switch is done while the engine is running. I paid the price for this 'goof'.

It is a very good practical means of isolating the batteries and not as expensive as another means. To prevent me from repeating the earlier mistake, I found the answer with the setup as noted below. Most all the electrical hookups are documented in the Sea Angel album; i.e. as below.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _album.php

This setup has proven "DUMMY PROOF" for me and I do have 3 batteries to manage with the twin OBs. This setup has also been adopted by Tivo for his CD16, Litl' Tug, and his setup may be closer to your present situation.

Please feel free to PM me with any questions.

Art
 
Thanks so much Art for posting that. The drawings and pictures were great. I would love to see your boat. On this Memorial day, I want to thank you for your service.

LTC, USAR,(RET)
 
Rob;
Anytime you're in Va. Beach area let me know and if WX permits, etc., we'll take a spin.

Art
 
Art, I had another question. With your dual motors, it's important to prevent any back feed from the charging loop. With my main and kicker is it important to make sure that one charging motor doesn't feed to the opposite motor? One will be off all the time. Do the battery switches prevent this or do you need some type of diode or isolator?
 
Rob;
I think if you used the same(not inexpensive) setup that have, or chech the BEP manufacturer, you will see that the second engine can be isolated via the switches, or automatically, depending of your choice.

This is a link to where I got my info, but you can search their site for many options.

http://www.bepmarine.com/home-mainmenu- ... tery-banks


TIVO, LITL' TUG, has a CD16 and posted hit wiring. He runs 2 batteries and a single OB.

Art
 
Rob:

I have a main and kicker. Standard two battery with 1,2, both switch. An easy solution to the kicker charger is to use two small battery clamps similar to jumper cable clamps but smaller. I leave them connected to battery one mostly. I can charge the other battery if needed or charge both by combining batteries thru the battery switch. Since the kicker is low amps I don't ever see the need to try to charge both batteries at the same time. It would be more advantageous to charge one, shut off kicker, switch clamps to other battery, and charge the second.

Just remember to never run both motors at the same time. Or if you have a need to run both engines: separate the main engine with the battery switch and make SURE the kicker clamps are on the other battery or it will cost you some $$$. I prevent this by only having one fuel line for both motors. An added benefit is the ability to run the clamps to another boat to charge or pop the kicker on another boat and go.

On edit: Just be familiar with how this setup works. A few rules to remember.

Never charge a battery with both engines charging same battery.

Never run the kicker WITHOUT the clamps hooked to a battery.

Never UNHOOK clamps with kicker running.

Never have main engine charging the battery while the kicker is charging the same battery. (Both engines operating).
 
Thanks chris those kicker battery clips are a dam fine idea
 
Chris, great ideas but too many things for this old brain to remember! Heck, I can't even remember to take my M-YWedges out when I tilt the motors down....:oops:

Glad I just have two Main's and no kicker.... :mrgreen:

Charlie
 
I had Les install the BEP system a couple months ago. I had two group 24 batteries to start with. I added another group 24 for a house battery. I started with that and the BEP system. Then, after having some problems and talking to Les, I took out the two group 24's and replaced them with 2 U1 batteries. Much smaller for starting. After starting they charge back to full within 30 seconds or so. Then after they are up to 13.7 and 45 seconds goes by everything goes over to the house battery. Either one, or both engines (honda 35's). Initially they weren't making the switch, but we discovered the relays have a very small ground wire tucked up under them and it has to be run to the common negative buss. I did that friday, and saturday gave the system a try. Worked like a charm. I ran the furnace, all the instruments, sirrius radio, and the radar, and returned home after a day and a night on the hook, with a fully charged house battery. Pretty foolproof system. I may add another house battery if I add refrigeration, and use a manual switch. Haven't decided yet if it is necessary.
 
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