Bearing Problems
- Thread starter JDS
- Start date
rob bauerle
New member
Thanks so much for sharing. Im sorry for what you want through both emtionally and monetary howevver, very intersting disucssion that will hopefully keep the rest of us out of similar circumstances. I lost side bunk going to lake pend oreille through blanchard last week.
The best fix we know of currently for salt water trailer boaters is to rinse wheels and brakes off after launching and retrieving your boat.Some carry garden sprayers for this purpose a little vinegar in your water can't hurt. Keeping the base of your bleeders and other areas you want to protect covered with some marine wheel bearing grease can't hurt. I have actually coated galvinized steel brake lines with marine grease with good results. If you have the money buy a new axle or (2) equipped with Kodiak stainless steel brakes with vented rotors they are reportedly the best. TieDown Engineering has some new brake units out called the G-5 series but the jury is still out on them as they are pretty new to the market.
D.D.
D.D.
Last year I discovered serious dissimilar metals corrosion between the steel lines and brass fittings on the original brake lines of our two axle EZ Loader.
This occurred just before we were about to head for Lake Powell and California, a trip of over 3000 miles. The corrosion was bad enough that I could see some brake fluid seepage I quickly changed the lines for Tie Down flexible lines; not too hard even with the boat on the trailer. On the trip we visited Bob and Betsy Burk in Bend Oregon and had Bob's store put a new tire on the trailer after a failure. His technician showed me the excessive corrosion of the rotors and after we got back home I replaced the original brakes with Kodiak. The corrosion was bad enough that I did not think I could have the rotors turned and use the old calipers again. I've mentioned I have oil bath hubs and when I removed the old brakes and bearings the bearings and axle spindle were pristine. No signs of wear at all. We had the trailer for five years and about 8-9,000 miles, with over 100 salt water launchings. During the process I discovered that the original EZ Loader equipment was "Reliable" brand axle spindle, rotor, and oil bath hubs. The Calipers were "Kodiak" brand. I had assumed everything was Kodiak when I read the "Kodiak" on the calipers. That mattered because my old "Reliable" hubs were a different design than the "Kodiak" and I had to buy new "Kodiak" hubs to maintain the oil bath system. Not too much money but an unexpected and irritating expense. The new brakes and lines are working flawlessly.
I had not thought of carrying a garden sprayer to wash down the brakes after launching (no fresh water rinse where I launch), great idea and I'll start carrying one. Thanks very much!
This occurred just before we were about to head for Lake Powell and California, a trip of over 3000 miles. The corrosion was bad enough that I could see some brake fluid seepage I quickly changed the lines for Tie Down flexible lines; not too hard even with the boat on the trailer. On the trip we visited Bob and Betsy Burk in Bend Oregon and had Bob's store put a new tire on the trailer after a failure. His technician showed me the excessive corrosion of the rotors and after we got back home I replaced the original brakes with Kodiak. The corrosion was bad enough that I did not think I could have the rotors turned and use the old calipers again. I've mentioned I have oil bath hubs and when I removed the old brakes and bearings the bearings and axle spindle were pristine. No signs of wear at all. We had the trailer for five years and about 8-9,000 miles, with over 100 salt water launchings. During the process I discovered that the original EZ Loader equipment was "Reliable" brand axle spindle, rotor, and oil bath hubs. The Calipers were "Kodiak" brand. I had assumed everything was Kodiak when I read the "Kodiak" on the calipers. That mattered because my old "Reliable" hubs were a different design than the "Kodiak" and I had to buy new "Kodiak" hubs to maintain the oil bath system. Not too much money but an unexpected and irritating expense. The new brakes and lines are working flawlessly.
I had not thought of carrying a garden sprayer to wash down the brakes after launching (no fresh water rinse where I launch), great idea and I'll start carrying one. Thanks very much!
The sprayer idea was someone else's from this site. I can't remember who but I ripped (ganked it) the idea from them like it was my own idea. :lol: I do however upon loading the boat back on the trailer use my fresh water tank via an extra faucet in the cockpit T'd off the output of the fresh water pump to hook a hose to and wash the scum line off the boat and wash down the brakes. If I have enough water I will give the motor a flush and a hosing to lose some of the salt crystals.
D.D.
D.D.
kennharriet
Member
I pulled the hubs and checked bearings today. There was moisture in both sides (single axle trailer), and all the bearings are pitted. I have less than 100 mi. on the trailer since I replaced all the bearings and races in September, with only one launch in freshwater. It has the bearing buddy system, at least until I throw them as far as I can. :amgry
I have studied many of the existing threads and searched other sites, but no other system jumps out at me as the answer. I repack the bearings on four other non-boat trailers regularly so I am fairly proficient. I now carry an extra hub with a full set of prepacked components. With the critical need to avoid a failure on a single axle trailer, I am thinking about carrying two prepacked hub assemblies. With this system I would swap the prepacked hubs after pulling the boat out of the water, before doing a long haul anywhere. When home, repack the used hubs.
Is there any reliable system out there? Thanks in advance, Ken
I have studied many of the existing threads and searched other sites, but no other system jumps out at me as the answer. I repack the bearings on four other non-boat trailers regularly so I am fairly proficient. I now carry an extra hub with a full set of prepacked components. With the critical need to avoid a failure on a single axle trailer, I am thinking about carrying two prepacked hub assemblies. With this system I would swap the prepacked hubs after pulling the boat out of the water, before doing a long haul anywhere. When home, repack the used hubs.
Is there any reliable system out there? Thanks in advance, Ken
Levitation
New member
More boat trailer wheel bearings are ruined by a loose nut on the grease gun than by neglect...
Unless it is visibly leaking grease why would you think you need to put more grease in?
And where do you expect it to go if it has not been coming out?
(hint: grease does not compress so expect that you will sooner or later blow out the seal)
Annually pull the hubs, clean the hub, spindle and bearings until spick and span, then use a bearing greaser (auto store) to regrease the bearings, hand pack the hub, reinstall and ignore until next year... Likely, this will get you longer bearing life than the fuss budget with a grease gun and a compulsion to give it "just one more shot"...
Unless it is visibly leaking grease why would you think you need to put more grease in?
And where do you expect it to go if it has not been coming out?
(hint: grease does not compress so expect that you will sooner or later blow out the seal)
Annually pull the hubs, clean the hub, spindle and bearings until spick and span, then use a bearing greaser (auto store) to regrease the bearings, hand pack the hub, reinstall and ignore until next year... Likely, this will get you longer bearing life than the fuss budget with a grease gun and a compulsion to give it "just one more shot"...
Levitation
New member
Ken, I didn't see your post until after I hit send on my little diatribe...
My assumption is that perhaps you backed warm hubs into cold water and the hubs sucked the water past the seal when they shock cooled...
While it is hard to do in real life my only suggestion is to start with new seals and then when going to launch, pour a pail of water over the hubs a couple of times to cool down before launching...
Tis an imperfect world - and frustrating when it costs you money, time, and effort to replace corroded parts///
Funny thing, when I had the trailer built for my R-25 I told the factory I had read all the horror stories about grease hubs and I wanted oil hubs... He said absolutely not, they had bad results over the years with the oil hubs and they did NOT want to put them on... I wound up taking his advice and so far I am doing just great...
Last year we put a bit over 4000 miles on the trailer.. It is in my shop at this moment as I am cleaning the boat... One of the items on the punch list is to pull the hubs and repack the bearings with fresh grease for a trip in February......
My assumption is that perhaps you backed warm hubs into cold water and the hubs sucked the water past the seal when they shock cooled...
While it is hard to do in real life my only suggestion is to start with new seals and then when going to launch, pour a pail of water over the hubs a couple of times to cool down before launching...
Tis an imperfect world - and frustrating when it costs you money, time, and effort to replace corroded parts///
Funny thing, when I had the trailer built for my R-25 I told the factory I had read all the horror stories about grease hubs and I wanted oil hubs... He said absolutely not, they had bad results over the years with the oil hubs and they did NOT want to put them on... I wound up taking his advice and so far I am doing just great...
Last year we put a bit over 4000 miles on the trailer.. It is in my shop at this moment as I am cleaning the boat... One of the items on the punch list is to pull the hubs and repack the bearings with fresh grease for a trip in February......
We have posi lube type axles on our Float On trailer. They have a removable tin cap that you hammer on with a removable rubber cap and a grease fitting directly in the center of the axle spindle. The spindle is drilled so the grease if added comes out the spindle behind the inner bearing. If you want to add grease you are pumping out the old and replacing it with new no real load on the seal I would think. I always use a quality marine grease in our wheel bearings since regular grease is soap based and water soluble. I boat mostly in salt water and do bearings normally once a year in the spring. Last year I did them before our Florida trip 2500 miles and again before our western trip of 6600 miles. I also added new brake pads because I was paranoid about the mountains out west. I also had our brakes changed to electric over hydraulic last year.Along with the usual trips to the new Jersey Coast. Nothing against the Chinese but I would go out of your way to buy a quality bearing. The brand name Timken comes to mind. See Boris's posts about wheel bearings. Somethings crazy with pitting occurring in a hundred miles or so. We must have almost 20 thousand on our trailer that has seen it's share of salt water and still the original bearings and races. I usually tow in between 65 and 70 mph. I touch all four hubs with my fingers and lay my hands on my tires to feel for heat at every stop. I guess we have been very lucky.
D.D.
D.D.
potter water
New member
Sorry for the length of this, but I think there is some thought provoking points to be made relative to trailering.
There is an increasing awareness that the annual inspections done on non-commercial aircraft, when statistically analyzed, is showing that the probability of experiencing mechanical problems with the airplane is at its highest shortly following the annual inspection. It makes some sense in terms of the old...if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I think there may be some potential move within the FAA to change the annual inspection to something with a longer period, but have an annual LOOK at some critical things as opposed to what really is a pretty major dinking about in the airplane internals of the usual annual inspection
I think that trailer brakes and bearings can be over-thought and dinking around with them every year with no evidence that they need it might on occasion be counter productive. I've never had a bearing failure in 50 years of trailering boats and RV's and utility trailers. (Most with several years between service intervals.) I've only had one tire failure, and that was a manufacturing defect. Now I know you are all saying HA HA!! just wait potter water. You will get yours! I'm sure you are right. But thinking of the airplane analogy, some basic understanding of your brake and bearing system, whatever it is, and following manufacturer instructions and maintenance will probably allow you to tow worry free with any of the systems.
Also, speed is the biggest enemy of bearings and tires and brakes. 60 MPH is plenty fast to tow a CD.
Checking bearing temp once an hour is SOP for me. I did find a warm bearing on a tandem axle trailer years ago. I stopped for the night, got out my little tool bag, took the bearing apart. It was dry. Why was it dry? The trailer was brand new and on its first trip. The factory simply didn't service that bearing during manufacturing.
There is an increasing awareness that the annual inspections done on non-commercial aircraft, when statistically analyzed, is showing that the probability of experiencing mechanical problems with the airplane is at its highest shortly following the annual inspection. It makes some sense in terms of the old...if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I think there may be some potential move within the FAA to change the annual inspection to something with a longer period, but have an annual LOOK at some critical things as opposed to what really is a pretty major dinking about in the airplane internals of the usual annual inspection
I think that trailer brakes and bearings can be over-thought and dinking around with them every year with no evidence that they need it might on occasion be counter productive. I've never had a bearing failure in 50 years of trailering boats and RV's and utility trailers. (Most with several years between service intervals.) I've only had one tire failure, and that was a manufacturing defect. Now I know you are all saying HA HA!! just wait potter water. You will get yours! I'm sure you are right. But thinking of the airplane analogy, some basic understanding of your brake and bearing system, whatever it is, and following manufacturer instructions and maintenance will probably allow you to tow worry free with any of the systems.
Also, speed is the biggest enemy of bearings and tires and brakes. 60 MPH is plenty fast to tow a CD.
Checking bearing temp once an hour is SOP for me. I did find a warm bearing on a tandem axle trailer years ago. I stopped for the night, got out my little tool bag, took the bearing apart. It was dry. Why was it dry? The trailer was brand new and on its first trip. The factory simply didn't service that bearing during manufacturing.
Levitation
New member
Harry, as an airplane owner I tend to agree with you about maintenance induced failures (from experience)- except on boat trailer bearings that get dunked while hot into cold water...
They need an annual cleaning and an inspection for corrosion...
denny-o
They need an annual cleaning and an inspection for corrosion...
denny-o
kennharriet
Member
My single axle trailer does not have brakes, so dunking hot components in cold water is not the issue. I also am from the camp that all over greasing does is make a mess. I have the posi-lube system on the horse trailer, but I never apply grease with a grease gun, but hand pack the bearings with minimal, but adequate grease.
For now I am going with the assumption that moisture will be introduced to bearings whenever submerged and will need to repack at first opportunity. Hopefully some bright individual will come up with a fool proof system some day. In the mean time, I plan to shoot the bearing buddies, so they will suffer some before spending eternity in a land fill.
For now I am going with the assumption that moisture will be introduced to bearings whenever submerged and will need to repack at first opportunity. Hopefully some bright individual will come up with a fool proof system some day. In the mean time, I plan to shoot the bearing buddies, so they will suffer some before spending eternity in a land fill.
Don't forget your wheel cylinders. When they stick the brakes drag, the drum overheats, the grease melts, and it's a messy hassle on the side of the road.
MY RANT :amgry
You'll need to remove the drum in order to release the wheel cylinder's tension, but how ? The drum is on tight and won't budge to allow you to release the wheel cylinder.
It means your on your back with your brake adjusting tool (you remembered to bring it, right ?), performing an awkward operation as cars whiz by at 65 mph, not 4 feet away from you.
If your lucky, like I was, it's 90 degrees out. If not, it's raining. And dark. And your flashlight's batteries are dead. And there's no shoulder.:cry
Once the hubs off (if you're lucky) you'll probably need to remove the shoe assembly with your hold-down spring tool (you remembered to bring it, right ?),and your brake spring removal tool (you remembered to bring it, right ?), then you'll need to compress the wheel cylinder struts with your channel lock pliers (you remembered to bring it, right ?).
If you've made it this far your now ready to reassemble your brakes and reinstall your drum and your wheel.
By now your sweaty, covered with road grime and brake dust, and pulling a trailer with with one functioning surge brake...unless that other wheel cylinder sticks.:crook
Rant completed. :roll:
The story that you have just heard is true. The names were changed to protect the idiot (me).
We now return you to your regular scheduled programming. 8)
Wheel cylinders...cheap and often neglected. Same for brake fluid, it gets replaced along with the cylinders.
MY RANT :amgry
You'll need to remove the drum in order to release the wheel cylinder's tension, but how ? The drum is on tight and won't budge to allow you to release the wheel cylinder.
It means your on your back with your brake adjusting tool (you remembered to bring it, right ?), performing an awkward operation as cars whiz by at 65 mph, not 4 feet away from you.
If your lucky, like I was, it's 90 degrees out. If not, it's raining. And dark. And your flashlight's batteries are dead. And there's no shoulder.:cry
Once the hubs off (if you're lucky) you'll probably need to remove the shoe assembly with your hold-down spring tool (you remembered to bring it, right ?),and your brake spring removal tool (you remembered to bring it, right ?), then you'll need to compress the wheel cylinder struts with your channel lock pliers (you remembered to bring it, right ?).
If you've made it this far your now ready to reassemble your brakes and reinstall your drum and your wheel.
By now your sweaty, covered with road grime and brake dust, and pulling a trailer with with one functioning surge brake...unless that other wheel cylinder sticks.:crook
Rant completed. :roll:
The story that you have just heard is true. The names were changed to protect the idiot (me).
We now return you to your regular scheduled programming. 8)
Wheel cylinders...cheap and often neglected. Same for brake fluid, it gets replaced along with the cylinders.
Wow!
I was on the road last summer and missed this whole thread. After dealing with my own trailering/ brake problems and after reading this thread through just now and after reading other brake/ trailering threads I've summarized the collective wisdom.
1. Bearing Buddies aren't good because you fill from the end of the bearing and if you put in too much lube/ apply too much pressure and that blows out the rear seal which makes the lubricant go away.
2. Bearings with a hole in the end of the axle that comes out behind the rear bearings (king) aren't good because they still will often blow the rear seal. They also are subject to damage from surge brakes overheating, especially on long down grades.
3. Oil Bath bearings (Easy Loader) are not good because they are made of poor quality steel and because they are subject to overheating by surge brakes.
4. Mixing of different companies parts is a no-no.
5. Preventive maintenance causes more problems than it solves.
6. Electric over hydraulic is the only way to keep brakes from overheating on long down grades but they cost a full Boat Buck.
What have I missed.
Chuck
I was on the road last summer and missed this whole thread. After dealing with my own trailering/ brake problems and after reading this thread through just now and after reading other brake/ trailering threads I've summarized the collective wisdom.
1. Bearing Buddies aren't good because you fill from the end of the bearing and if you put in too much lube/ apply too much pressure and that blows out the rear seal which makes the lubricant go away.
2. Bearings with a hole in the end of the axle that comes out behind the rear bearings (king) aren't good because they still will often blow the rear seal. They also are subject to damage from surge brakes overheating, especially on long down grades.
3. Oil Bath bearings (Easy Loader) are not good because they are made of poor quality steel and because they are subject to overheating by surge brakes.
4. Mixing of different companies parts is a no-no.
5. Preventive maintenance causes more problems than it solves.
6. Electric over hydraulic is the only way to keep brakes from overheating on long down grades but they cost a full Boat Buck.
What have I missed.
Chuck
Adeline":18nu2sqc said:Don't forget your wheel cylinders. When they stick the brakes drag, the drum overheats, the grease melts, and it's a messy hassle on the side of the road.
MY RANT :amgry
You'll need to remove the drum in order to release the wheel cylinder's tension, but how ? The drum is on tight and won't budge to allow you to release the wheel cylinder.
It means your on your back with your brake adjusting tool (you remembered to bring it, right ?), performing an awkward operation as cars whiz by at 65 mph, not 4 feet away from you.
If your lucky, like I was, it's 90 degrees out. If not, it's raining. And dark. And your flashlight's batteries are dead. And there's no shoulder.:cry
Once the hubs off (if you're lucky) you'll probably need to remove the shoe assembly with your hold-down spring tool (you remembered to bring it, right ?),and your brake spring removal tool (you remembered to bring it, right ?), then you'll need to compress the wheel cylinder struts with your channel lock pliers (you remembered to bring it, right ?).
If you've made it this far your now ready to reassemble your brakes and reinstall your drum and your wheel.
By now your sweaty, covered with road grime and brake dust, and pulling a trailer with with one functioning surge brake...unless that other wheel cylinder sticks.:crook
Rant completed. :roll:
The story that you have just heard is true. The names were changed to protect the idiot (me).
We now return you to your regular scheduled programming. 8)
Wheel cylinders...cheap and often neglected. Same for brake fluid, it gets replaced along with the cylinders.
NOCK ON WOOD :disgust So far never had to do this, nock on wood again. :smilep
Really enjoyed your rant. I felt like I was there with you.
H :wink:
potter water
New member
You are right. You have it perfectly. So in my opinion, you use what you've got, maintain it according to manufacturers specs. and you will do fine. And sooner or later you will have a problem with any of them.
"Wow!
I was on the road last summer and missed this whole thread. After dealing with my own trailering/ brake problems and after reading this thread through just now and after reading other brake/ trailering threads I've summarized the collective wisdom.
1. Bearing Buddies aren't good because you fill from the end of the bearing and if you put in too much lube/ apply too much pressure and that blows out the rear seal which makes the lubricant go away.
2. Bearings with a hole in the end of the axle that comes out behind the rear bearings (king) aren't good because they still will often blow the rear seal. They also are subject to damage from surge brakes overheating, especially on long down grades.
3. Oil Bath bearings (Easy Loader) are not good because they are made of poor quality steel and because they are subject to overheating by surge brakes.
4. Mixing of different companies parts is a no-no.
5. Preventive maintenance causes more problems than it solves.
6. Electric over hydraulic is the only way to keep brakes from overheating on long down grades but they cost a full Boat Buck.
What have I missed." end quote
Maybe that everyone has an opinion, like different strokes for different folks.
Some of the above is based on opinion. If #2 point is speaking of posilube type axles I don't agree with grease being able to do seal damage since you have to remove a cover to get to the grease fitting just my opinion. Any wheel seal will fail with excess heat which could be caused by a brake sticking or hanging up. Replacing a seal and bearings will only fail again if the seal melts for the reason of excessive heat from the brakes. I like electric over hydraulic brakes as our boat is a little heavier and I don't miss the slop of a surge brake actuator. That's my opinion but shared by other C-Brats who pull over long distances. But vented rotors and disc brakes run much cooler than drum brakes and most folks this can be an alternative to going electric over hydraulic. A diesel tow vehicle for those with heavier boats also does better with compression braking and takes some of pressure off the the trailer brakes but might be more likely to put pressure to a surge brakes. Some folks are perfectly happy with oil bath wheel bearings. Preventive maintenance is just that, if the person performing the tasks is unaware of the proper methods then maybe there is a case for leaving well enough alone. Not everyone boats in fresh water. For me the salt water enviroment is a game changer. East Coast Salt water folks I've talked to universally agree annual wheel bearing service is a real good idea. Lastly I'm not a fan of bearing buddies but they do have a plunger and a spring that when compressed exposes a relief hole for excess grease to exit. Those folks with smaller boats and trailers have gotten by with bearing buddies,maybe not so popular with the long haul set. A lot depends on how often you launch and retrive your boat. Because many factors effect what is best for a particular trailer boater's such as miles traveled, how many launches a year,salt water or fresh, towing speeds, flat country of mountainous areas, there is nothing carved in stone. What I think I need might be seen as an overkill to another. Like my dad always said "son you've got to read between the lines".
D.D.
I was on the road last summer and missed this whole thread. After dealing with my own trailering/ brake problems and after reading this thread through just now and after reading other brake/ trailering threads I've summarized the collective wisdom.
1. Bearing Buddies aren't good because you fill from the end of the bearing and if you put in too much lube/ apply too much pressure and that blows out the rear seal which makes the lubricant go away.
2. Bearings with a hole in the end of the axle that comes out behind the rear bearings (king) aren't good because they still will often blow the rear seal. They also are subject to damage from surge brakes overheating, especially on long down grades.
3. Oil Bath bearings (Easy Loader) are not good because they are made of poor quality steel and because they are subject to overheating by surge brakes.
4. Mixing of different companies parts is a no-no.
5. Preventive maintenance causes more problems than it solves.
6. Electric over hydraulic is the only way to keep brakes from overheating on long down grades but they cost a full Boat Buck.
What have I missed." end quote
Maybe that everyone has an opinion, like different strokes for different folks.
Some of the above is based on opinion. If #2 point is speaking of posilube type axles I don't agree with grease being able to do seal damage since you have to remove a cover to get to the grease fitting just my opinion. Any wheel seal will fail with excess heat which could be caused by a brake sticking or hanging up. Replacing a seal and bearings will only fail again if the seal melts for the reason of excessive heat from the brakes. I like electric over hydraulic brakes as our boat is a little heavier and I don't miss the slop of a surge brake actuator. That's my opinion but shared by other C-Brats who pull over long distances. But vented rotors and disc brakes run much cooler than drum brakes and most folks this can be an alternative to going electric over hydraulic. A diesel tow vehicle for those with heavier boats also does better with compression braking and takes some of pressure off the the trailer brakes but might be more likely to put pressure to a surge brakes. Some folks are perfectly happy with oil bath wheel bearings. Preventive maintenance is just that, if the person performing the tasks is unaware of the proper methods then maybe there is a case for leaving well enough alone. Not everyone boats in fresh water. For me the salt water enviroment is a game changer. East Coast Salt water folks I've talked to universally agree annual wheel bearing service is a real good idea. Lastly I'm not a fan of bearing buddies but they do have a plunger and a spring that when compressed exposes a relief hole for excess grease to exit. Those folks with smaller boats and trailers have gotten by with bearing buddies,maybe not so popular with the long haul set. A lot depends on how often you launch and retrive your boat. Because many factors effect what is best for a particular trailer boater's such as miles traveled, how many launches a year,salt water or fresh, towing speeds, flat country of mountainous areas, there is nothing carved in stone. What I think I need might be seen as an overkill to another. Like my dad always said "son you've got to read between the lines".
D.D.
kennharriet
Member
I stopped by a boat trailer manufacturer yesterday and asked the question as to the best marine wheel bearing system. They use the "ez lube bearing system" exclusively. No promo. Just sharing information.
http://www.dexteraxle.com/
I believe this is very similar to the posi-lube system where grease is pumped through a zerk in the end of the spindle and theoretically pushes new grease through the inner and outer bearings. I asked for an estimate to replace the axle on my single axle trailer with this system. About $150 for the a 3500 lb axle, (axle with spindles only).
If this system is reliable, the only down side I see is that you might be tempted not to regularly remove the bearings for inspection.
http://www.dexteraxle.com/
I believe this is very similar to the posi-lube system where grease is pumped through a zerk in the end of the spindle and theoretically pushes new grease through the inner and outer bearings. I asked for an estimate to replace the axle on my single axle trailer with this system. About $150 for the a 3500 lb axle, (axle with spindles only).
If this system is reliable, the only down side I see is that you might be tempted not to regularly remove the bearings for inspection.
kennharriet
Member
My opinion is think you are exactly right about this being the best setup. We have been using this type of lube system (posilube in our case) for three years. I have not ever noticed any water intrusion. I still replace the wheel seals,and the steel caps with the rubber covers every year. I'm sure this is overkill by that me. I like taking a good look at the calipers,rotors and brake pads while I've have the wheels pulled. Being able to put the boat inside a heated shop having a nice floor jack along with a parts washer, an air compressor with an air powered impact wrench makes it a lot easier than the old drive way days. Without the above I'm sure I would not be so quick to pull the wheels. I would just pump the new grease in and the old grease out and leave it at that until I needed new brake pads.
D.D.
D.D.