Best idea under $20

I took a kitty plastic litter box, it fits perfectly on top of the water tank. Weighs nothing, goes no where, easy to get in and out. I store the window black out covers in it when they are not in use.

Martin.
 
I put a spare drain plug in the bilge area, hung from a cable clamp with a slit in it for quick removal. It's there in case something happens to the drain plug while on the water, or if the boat goes down the launch without a plug.

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Over sized caribineer clips to go around the rod on the back of an anchor and the hoop on the launch roller to prevent accidental anchoring. Also to be used as shore power cord hangers to keep shore power cables out the the drink. Also used in garage to hang fishing rods lower off the hooks in the ceiling. Sold by Asian department stores in the tool area located at various outdoor flea markets. :D
D.D.
 
I have the Yamaha F80/F100. One day I noticed my lift lock bent out to the point where it slipped off the face and bound on the corner of the bracket. I raised the motor full up and hammered it back straight. That metal is very soft. I have tried dowels, 2x4's, metal all-thread and such and they all fell out dangling on the lanyard in a short distance. In a rush to head to the lake one day I ran to the garage and grabbed what seemed to be made for just this task.

Pics on page 3 of my album. I would post here but don't know how. It is known as a Stanley (brand) tool or Stanley pry-bar. Can be had at any hardware for under $20. Others brands available now. Fits right in perfect ahead of the lift cylinder so it is about impossible to fall out. Recommend lanyard anyway. The leaf spring shape allows the bar to cradle and has a dab of flex so all is well. Works good on my Yamaha not sure with other brands. Longer Bar length is available for larger outboards. Just like it was made for it!
 
C-WEED":382fupaz said:
I have the Yamaha F80/F100. One day I noticed my lift lock bent out to the point where it slipped off the face and bound on the corner of the bracket. I raised the motor full up and hammered it back straight. That metal is very soft. I have tried dowels, 2x4's, metal all-thread and such and they all fell out dangling on the lanyard in a short distance. In a rush to head to the lake one day I ran to the garage and grabbed what seemed to be made for just this task.

Pics on page 3 of my album. I would post here but don't know how. It is known as a Stanley (brand) tool or Stanley pry-bar. Can be had at any hardware for under $20. Others brands available now. Fits right in perfect ahead of the lift cylinder so it is about impossible to fall out. Recommend lanyard anyway. The leaf spring shape allows the bar to cradle and has a dab of flex so all is well. Works good on my Yamaha not sure with other brands. Longer Bar length is available for larger outboards. Just like it was made for it!

Chris- Here are the photos:

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Does the metal bar cut into the metal castings and start corrosion?

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
C-WEED":2q5tsi7l said:
I have the Yamaha F80/F100. One day I noticed my lift lock bent out to the point where it slipped off the face and bound on the corner of the bracket. I raised the motor full up and hammered it back straight. That metal is very soft. I have tried dowels, 2x4's, metal all-thread and such and they all fell out dangling on the lanyard in a short distance. In a rush to head to the lake one day I ran to the garage and grabbed what seemed to be made for just this task.

Pics on page 3 of my album. I would post here but don't know how. It is known as a Stanley (brand) tool or Stanley pry-bar. Can be had at any hardware for under $20. Others brands available now. Fits right in perfect ahead of the lift cylinder so it is about impossible to fall out. Recommend lanyard anyway. The leaf spring shape allows the bar to cradle and has a dab of flex so all is well. Works good on my Yamaha not sure with other brands. Longer Bar length is available for larger outboards. Just like it was made for it!

Great idea Chris, as is the lanyard. It would probably bounce about windshield high when it hit the pavement! :disgust

And Joe, we could wrap it in a spare "DEPENDS" to eliminate the corrosion problem... :xnaughty

Charlie
 
I tried a product called Damp Rid from Home depot for 5 or 6 bucks. The desiccate sits in a kind of filter bag at the top and the moisture drips in to a clear one in the bottom. Had one hanging from the inside grab rail and it worked great. I now have two hanging.
 
ShellBack":2y8wxu5l said:
I tried a product called Damp Rid from Home depot for 5 or 6 bucks. The desiccate sits in a kind of filter bag at the top and the moisture drips in to a clear one in the bottom. Had one hanging from the inside grab rail and it worked great. I now have two hanging.

We've been using Damp-Rid in our boat, RV, and home for over a decade. The only downside of the bag type: we had one that split after it was full... it wasn't pretty. We use several of the plastic containers with bulk Damp-Rid in them - no problem with those coming apart.
 
When using Damp Rid watch out re: the "water" it catches, especially on metals. It is made of a salt and will corrode metal, even stainless.
 
Thanks for the heads up. One bag three quarters filled in a month and a half before I dumped it in the drain but maybe I should be looking at a bit more enviromental resource. Now I feel bad about dumping it down my drain system so may have to figure something else out. Works great though. :roll: :idea:
 
Just pulled my boat out after 8 months in salt water. The trim tabs and depth sounder transducer were as clean as the day I put the boat in. All down to a liberal coating of baby diaper cream. Thank you "Mr Johnson".

Martin.
 
bridma":k63douwq said:
Just pulled my boat out after 8 months in salt water. The trim tabs and depth sounder transducer were as clean as the day I put the boat in. All down to a liberal coating of baby diaper cream. Thank you "Mr Johnson".

Martin.
Seriously? What exactly did you do and where did you hear about this?
 
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