Best idea under $20

The zinc oxide as a biocide in the diaper cream makes sense, but I don't understand how that wouldn't just wash off the tabs / transducer at speed.
 
Defintly sparked my interest as in the water for two or three weeks and the stuff starts to grow on the tabs and transducer. Zinc ?? How does it stay on and if it works , could make some one a million and alot of boaters life a bit eiseier :wink:
T
 
Hi Guys,

I'm serious, Johnson's baby diaper cream is the best. I used to put it on my bronze propeller when I had a sailboat. When I got the C-Dory, I took it into a professional paint shop to get the bottom anti-foul done. I told the guy, don't paint the trim tabs or the transducer. He said, "no I would not paint them, put diaper cream on them". I thought that was funny, I had been doing that for years, but that was the first time I had heard it from any one else.
In answer to the question, no it does not wash off. It is pretty thick and sticky, I apply it with my finger and it will last for ages.

Martin.
 
I wonder if zinc oxide powder can be mixed with silicone lubricant (e.g.,"SuperLube"), and the resulting mixture would be stiffer, more adhesive, and less likely to rub or migrate off the applied surface? Easy to try, I guess.

How about mixing it with a soft paint, to make it more adhesive and dry when out of the water, but still inhibit growth by it's presence? Does it have to exhibit release into the water or simply be at the surface of the coating? I'll bet the antifouling industry as already been down this road and tested most everything, including the economics (read profits) involved.

Copper compounds being released from bottom paints are viewed as a major contaminant and problem in the environment, affecting a host of biological systems. Hopefully zinc would be less of a problem.

TBT (tri-butyl-tin) was, and is, a much more effective biocide. It was outlawed on domestic pleasure vessels somewhere back about 20-30 years ago, as TBT is extremely disruptive to biological processes. I believe it is still allowed on international commercial vessels, as the copper based alternatives are shorter lived, and therefore cost more to apply more often, hence less cost effective.

What does the U.S. Navy use on its ships? (Major cost and effectiveness consideration!)

Thinking out loud, I kinda think we're sauntering down a well traveled road here (!)

BTW: please pass the Baby Bottom Balm. My C-Dory is trying to grow next month's Sushi Surprise on it's underside! Unfortunately, it's a bit slow and also hard on the gas bill. Oh well, they say every thing about boating is a series of compromises………

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
I have battery that is difficult to add de-ionized water to the cells and took a discarded hand soap container with pump dispenser, clean it thoroughly, and added 2' of unused hose. viola
Now it is easy to add water without overfilling

Free
 
While cruising in the Caribbean, I bought a manual fishing reel. I don't have a picture, but imagine a donut with a handle grip bar in the middle, around which fishing line is manually wound when reeling in the catch. Cost $10.00. Stores in a tackle box instead of a 6 ft rod rack. When trawling, I would attach a 6 ft piece of shock cord from it to a cleat; jam the reel behind the cleat; and when a fish struck, the reel would dislodge and act as a drop back to set the hook.

Cheapest and most useful item I had on the boat.
 
Two items that go great together. The first is that shrinking hose that you see on TV. It has a flow control valve and it does shrink to a small size when drained. Great with fresh water wash down or at dockside when you need more hose than the ridged coil hose type. If you have ever owned the "anchor Buddy" this hose is similar. I think it is a piece of rubber surgical tubing that expands when filled, protected by a nylon sheath. We stuff it in a small trash-bag. Great for overnighting dockside for showers or salty wash-down. I found one at a local kitchen gadget store. It had "As seen on TV on the box". My neighbor's brother tried one from a store like Wall-Mart and said his version broke right away. So beware of the quality.
Hose - https://www.pockethosedeal.com/?mid=3419934

The second item is a fireman's type of water nozzle found at LOWES. It has the standard rotating head with all the different stream controls. But what makes this nozzle great is the fireman's water control valve. It rocks for and aft for varied water control and stays in any position. Making it perfect for taking a do it yourself shower and conserving water if needed. Both these products are great on the C-Dory. Check them out.
Nozzle - http://www.lowes.com/pd_228754-306-217S ... facetInfo=
 
Several years ago I stuck a couple MREs with FRUs in with the emergency gear, in case a day trip ever turned into a late night adventure.
I've only had to use them twice, and both times they immediately boosted morale. Well worth the $7 each.

David
 
Finding this post at 4am, not only kept me awake for the next 2 hours reading and researching the entire thread. Now im headed to west marine to purchase some of said items.

thanks alot :(
 
C-WEED":226rhxkf said:
Problem is: Between my two big hounds runnin over my engine control cables, the southern sun's UV rays cookin'em and them black cables leavin nice black scuff marks in the well all the time.

For a few dollars I got 4ft of way to heavy duty water jet tubing for a jacuzzi. This stuff is way too tuff. I had to use a sawzall to slit it open. Then it was all I could do to pry it open just enough to slip all inside with two big pry bars and not lose a finger. This stuff is crush proof. If I didn't use the same fuel line for the kicker I'd put it inside too.

To do over, I would recommend the nice blue stuff for swimming pool vacuumes. Much more flexable. If I did the photo right you might see it here. If not it's on page three.

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QUESTION:

How did you get the hose to stay put on the engine and boat side. It seems like when the engine turns side to side, the hose could fall out of the engine. At least that was the problem I had with my previous Yamaha setup using their actual hoses and clamps.

Also, can you please state what the diameter of hose you used and hardware for clamping it in place.

Thanks,


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Need to transfer fuel from a main tank to, for instance, a dinghy tank?
Buy a male fuel tank fitting, the kind that threads into a portable tank. Unplug the fuel hose at one of the primary motors, or at the kicker motor, depending on your configuration; plug the fitting into the hose; drop the end into whatever you are filling; and pump the bulb. It doesn't take as long as you might think.

Of course if you are filling a portable tank, one with a fitting installed, you can plug directly into it, open the vent and backfill it without the fitting.

Safest way I know of to fill a tank while at sea.

Cost $15.00
 
I'm trying to picture this - especially after spending some time siphoning my tanks a couple of times. (The first time I ended up trailering when I had filled my tanks prepping for a voyage, and so I didn't want full tanks. I ended up using a spare fuel bulb and two lengths of fuel hose.... but with that I only took them down to about 1/4 tank. The second time I wanted to empty the tanks of ethanol fuel, so I could put in "pure gas" to run through the engines and hoses prior to laying the boat up for awhile. I tried a few tricks with the kicker fuel line, but none of them worked satisfactorily, so I re-launched and boated around for a while.)

So okay, the hose leading to my Honda kicker has the typical clip with a couple of prongs on the motor end. I tried using that end to move fuel, but even when pressing the ball in, it didn't work very well.... I think because the Racor filter kept the siphon - or even pumping the bulb - from working well (?). Or maybe it was the bulb check valve?

I'm probably just completely confused, but which "end fitting" is it that you use, and how do you get it to pull fuel through the fuel filter? Do you unclamp the normal end fitting from the hose and put on the other type (in my case that would be one sort of like an air chuck fitting)? Does it pull right through the Racor bowl?

Sure would have been handy to just be able to siphon the tanks dry.
 
Sunbeam:
Most portable marine gas tanks have a threaded brass fitting, into which the gas hose plugs and clips. These fittings can be bought separately for about $10.00.

If you plug this fitting into the motor end of your gas line, it defeats the check ball and allows fuel to be pumped with your fuel bulb. I doubt you can syphon through the bulb, but I could be wrong.

If your receiving tank is farther away, into this fitting you can screw a barbed fitting and add a length of gas hose.
 
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