Best idea under $20

Ah okay, I think I might see what you mean. If I remember correctly, many small engines have "mirror image" pin contraptions on both ends (so you could theoretically plug one end of the fuel hose into the other, like two ends of an extension cord).

My kicker is a Honda. It has a typical "pin contraption" on the motor end, but the other end is a round socket sort of like an air hose end (you pull a ring back on the hose end and snap it on and then the ring springs forward again and locks it). So you can't plug one end into the other.

Rats! I'd really like to have an easy way to siphon my tanks. Using the existing plumbing would be nice because the tank dip tubes can get right down to the bottom.
 
We carry an 18" long piece of scrap 4 x 4 wood. With a three pound hammer can be used to install wheel seals, grease cups, put one wheel up on it if you have a dual axle trailer with torsion suspension to raise the other axle off the ground to change a tire instead of using a jack. Loosen lug nuts first. :)
D.D.
 
We needed to place to hang damp towels, and various items that needed to be air dried ... basically a "clotheline."

After experimenting a bit we installed two small lines (about 1/8" diameter) across two bows of our bimini top. Run the lines parallel to the bows and to keep them secure we fixed the end with a hose clamp that tightens the end of the line (otherwise it tends to be pulled loose or inward). The lines work well and we use them almost every day for a variety of items. When the bimini is removed we just leave the clothesline in place (no need to remove them).

Best,
Casey&Mary
 
I always like to see a new post in this thread, and this one.... it's something I was trying to work out as well. My bimini has "solid" sleeves, so going fore-and-aft with a line wouldn't work all that well, but athwartships.... hmm, can't wait to get back to the boat and check it out!

On securing the ends (which I understand you have working just fine already), I wonder if an icicle hitch would work? I have to look this one up each time to tie it, but I found it in a Brion Toss book where he recommended it to secure a hammock to wire rope shrouds. Since our hammock was partially over the water, I was quite interested in not having them slip or fail. I used the icicle hitches and they were rock steady. I think he named it "icicle" because it would even hold on a slippery tapered point facing down (like an icicle.... in case Floridians are not familiar :wink) 'course they still might not work for this application, but I think I will either try that or a constrictor hitch to see if they will work (also found in the Brion Toss book, but probably online as well). I especially like that you just leave the lines there when you stow the bimini. Sweet :thup

Now if I just had my boat with me... :cry It's in storage temporarily and I have withdrawal pangs! (Although it is kind of fun to drive without towing for a change... wow, my tow vehicle feels like a sport coupe :D)
 
I took a metal coat hanger and snipped off the hook part. Then took some small diameter surgical tubing, heated it up in a cup of boiling water, and slid it over the wire coat hanger (shrinks tight as it cools). On to that I hang my kitchen paper roll in the galley with the wire ends bent over the ceiling grab rails in the cabin. You could probably achieve the same result if you use the stiff type electrical wire.

Martin.
 
It has been awhile since I read this whole thread, so I may actually have got the idea from earlier in the thread. I know I saw it in Will-C's album (thanks, Will-C!). Anyway, the basic idea is to use some sort of dowel placed into an existing rod holder to secure the after fender. My boat already had the rod holders in the right spot (whereas the after cleat is placed such that it seems like the fender could "go around the corner" and get behind the boat). I started by cutting a length of Schedule 80 PVC pipe (1", IIRC), but... I just didn't really like handling that material. So I decided to use an ash tool handle replacement that I bought at Ace Hardware. It fits perfectly, feels like wood (since it is), and is super tough (cuts and drills about like iron though :cry).

To secure the fender whip to the dowel, I drilled a hole in the dowel near one end and chamfered the ends (of the hole), then ran the whip through and secured it with a figure-8 knot. That way it's adjustable when necessary, but I have it pre-set to a length that seems to work most of the time. I left the dowel as long as I did because the height keeps the line off the gelcoat at the edge of the deck/topsides. So far I've usually just kept the fender and dowel together and "plugged" the whole works into the rod holder when I want to use it. The ash is so tough it could probably double as some sort of fish whomper. The PVC would be lighter.

I've only used it a dozen or so times so far, but am very pleased with the function. Sorry... I know the photo is not that good and you can barely see the (dark colored) line - I will try to get a better one at some point. I decided to post it today because I wanted to mention the concept in another thread.

fender_dowel.jpg
 
That's the photo I got the idea from - and it's been very useful, so thanks! My two small variations were to make it a bit "taller," as this allows the fender whip (line) to clear the gelcoat; and to use a hole through the dowel for the line so it's relatively easy to adjust with a figure-8 knot on the backside. (the ash is super tough, and the hole is not huge).

Really works well, I don't worry about the fender sneaking its way around to the transom, and it's nice to have the after cleat just for dock lines.

I want(ed) to make a groove in the bottom of the dowel to "lock" it into the metal rod that goes across the bottom of the rod holder, but that ash is so tough (and my on-the-road tools limited) so for now that's not there (not that I didn't try!). Doesn't seem to be needed though, so perhaps completely un-necessary. So I may trim the height just a hair, to make it as short as possible while still clearing the gelcoat.

When I had all the deck hardware off for re-bedding and for sealing off the core, I actually debated whether or not to even reinstall the rod holders (they came on the boat as I got it) since I don't fish and the part that projects down takes up space in the gunwale pockets. Ultimately I did put them back and now I'm glad I did: One gets used for a fender and the other (at least for now) for my ensign. And.... maybe I'll even fish in future :)
 
Like others we've used a California Water Blade for defogging duty. The $1.99 shower squeegee from Ikea seems to be easier to handle. Get one for the cars, too.
 
bridma":1m2yn6z3 said:
Hi Guys,

I'm serious, Penaten baby diaper cream is the best. I used to put it on my bronze propeller when I had a sailboat. When I got the C-Dory, I took it into a professional paint shop to get the bottom anti-foul done. I told the guy, don't paint the trim tabs or the transducer. He said, "no I would not paint them, put diaper cream on them". I thought that was funny, I had been doing that for years, but that was the first time I had heard it from any one else.
In answer to the question, no it does not wash off. It is pretty thick and sticky, I apply it with my finger and it will last for ages.

Martin.
Click to expand...




Now another summer season is behind us in the PNW and the majority of boats are out of the water, I was wondering how those of you got on who put diaper cream on your trim tabs? In Spring 2012 I coated the tabs and transducer with a liberal coating of baby diaper cream and at end of season had practically no marine growth to deal with. Spring 2013 I applied the cream sparingly (tin was almost empty) and the boat stayed in the water until mid-Dec. When I pulled the boat, the transducer and trim tabs had minor growth which came off real easy with a gentle kitchen scrubber and a firm toothbrush. "Penaten" diaper cream has got my vote again for 2014.

Martin.
 
Got one of these at harbor freight to leave on the boat full time for testing basic voltage or for the the presence of 12v power. I like the small size, no moving parts, and no battery in the unit to die. Pack it and don't worry about it. Tested it along side a multimeter and it's pretty darn close and good enough for the trouble shooting I would do onboard.

20160302_160803_resized.sized.jpg

This is well worth the 15 bucks at Tractor Supply. Nice smooth clamping portion and smooth rotation.

20160302_194740_resized.sized.jpg

Greg
 
I wanted some better shop towels for the cars and boats, cleaning parts and reels. I purchased huck, bar mops and white shop little thicker than the red ones from Georgia Towels' eBay store

Better prices with larger quantities

25 PREMIUM BLUE HUCK TOWELS GLASS CLEANING JANITORIAL LINTLESS SURGICAL DETAIL $14 Excellent for cleaning windows and place mat when cleaning reels and guns

12 SUPER THIRSTY HEAVY DUTY BAR MOPS GREEN STRIPE 32oz $10 great general purpose, very absorbent. We used them to hold small fish when removing the hook


100 NEW INDUSTRIAL SHOP RAGS / CLEANING TOWELS WHITE LARGE 13x14 GA TOWEL BRAND $19
general purpose shop rags for car and boat repairs. Well made and re usable but cheap enough to discard

http://www.ebay.com/usr/georgiatowels?_ ... 7675.l2559
 
Replacment wiper blade inserts from auto parts store, about $10 to $15 for set; just cut to langth and slide them in.
Problem is they are getting harder to find, most are sold as entire blade now.
 
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