Best Trailer for A TomCat 255?

Matt,

Yes the trailer did come with the inside guides but they could not hold the boat centered enough to guide them to the narrow front bunks. All trailers that provided the double-wide front bunks do well. I have always wondered if there is any wear on the bottom of the sponsons on those designs. Since you are a diver, you should look when your boat is in the water to see if there is wear on the gelcoat.

I have received a few private messages about posting pictures of the modified trailer without the boat, which I will the next time I use the boat. There have been questions about how to galvanize. Basically, I welded my own parts with mild steel then took them to a local galvanizing plant. Hot dipped galvanizing only cost me $160 for the whole load.

George
 
Bad Boy":24mweglv said:
Matt,

Yes the trailer did come with the inside guides but they could not hold the boat centered enough to guide them to the narrow front bunks. All trailers that provided the double-wide front bunks do well. I have always wondered if there is any wear on the bottom of the sponsons on those designs. Since you are a diver, you should look when your boat is in the water to see if there is wear on the gelcoat.

I have received a few private messages about posting pictures of the modified trailer without the boat, which I will the next time I use the boat. There have been questions about how to galvanize. Basically, I welded my own parts with mild steel then took them to a local galvanizing plant. Hot dipped galvanizing only cost me $160 for the whole load.

George

Hi George,
I often inspect the bottom of my hull at the conclusion of my dives. I noticed a small chunk removed on my port sponson (gelcoat removed and a little bit of glass) but it was not through to the core or anything. There was no damaged evident on my starboard sponson. I believe I hit a chunk of wood or something. I launched/retrieved my boat only 3 times last season. The damage did not seem to correlate to my launches. From your experience I will pay closer attention after launches.
 
You know what George? I took a closer look at the forward portion of my sponsons (at the knife edge) and it turns out I do have considerable rubbing on both. Perhaps the damage I noticed on my port sponson was indeed caused by the trailer. I have no way to be certain but it may very well be the case.

My bunks are pretty wide but the forward portion of the sponsons will have to rub along the carpet for launch/retrieve. Do you think an alternative material, such as the slick material others have referenced, will help? Fortunately I do not launch/retrieve very often. When I get my boat jacked up off the trailer I will certainly be applying a good portion of epoxy over that area and will keep up with it annually.
 
Hey, I just noticed this on the Floaton site:

Over the years, we continuously improved our trailers with new ideas such as our now patented all aluminum adjustable bunk that pivots to snug the bottom of your hull as you retrieve your boat.

It sounds like that means their bunks will "V" themselves to match that of the sponsons, yes?

I am going to call and ask....

---
mike
 
Matt and Wannabe,

The slick bunks will help.

There are inherent problems to building a trailer for any catamaran. Basically, the sponsons sit on top of the bunks, which causes the catamaran to sit higher on a trailer. All v-hull boats are able to nestle lower onto a trailer because the bunks are positioned on each side of the centerline of the boat, so the keel can sit much lower than the bunks on the trailer and easier to launch and retrieve.

For catamaran trailers, you must back deep into the water to retrieve your boat. Next time note the antgle of your trailer at the ramp in relation to the Tomcat (which sits level with the water). It should be obvious that as the catamaran approaches your front bunks, it must ride up the bunks to meet with your bow stop. There is so much pressure on the front of the sponsons that it can't help but wear the gelcoat off. The carpeting is very abrasive for something to slide across.

The thought of having to re-gelcoat my sponsons because of this inherent problem does not seem right. So, I apologize for repeating myself to those following this thread, but this is what I have done to "solve" my problem:

1. Re-design the front bunks to a v-hull design for each sponson. This allows me to guide and hold the front of the boat in place for a perfect retrievel every time.

2. The v-bunks provides more surface area to spread the load of the front sponsons instead of concentrating the load on the knife edge of the sponsons.

3. Install the slick bunks instead of carpet on these v-bunks to help reduce wear abrasion as the catamran rides up to the bow stop.

4. Installed side guides on aft end of trailer to hold back of boat in centerline of trailer for quick retrievel.

5. Increased the length of my trailer tongue by 2-feet so that I could get my trailer further back into the water to help the boat reach the bow stop with the least amount of friction as possible.

6. I also changed the front bow stop design to provide a more positive for me to know when the boat was in the proper forward position.

7. Finally, my final modification will be to replace leaf-spring axles to torsion axles, which will lower my boat to the waterline about 5-inches.

I have seen a trailer design where the bunks rest under the floor of the boat, between the sponsons, where the sponsons are dangling freely. That would certainly make launch and retrievel easy but I was apprehensive about whether the Tomcat's underside could take the weight. The hassles of finding the answers were too exhaustive to think about.

Some of you may ask why don't all trailer manufacturers implement this design if it is so good and all I can tell you is it is a matter of costs and not enough demand for catamaran-designed trailers. While the end user would pay an additonal $300-500 for a trouble-free trailer, most of the manufacturers have experienced that the boat purchaser doesn't want to pay anymore than they have to for a trailer. Most boat owners just trust they are getting the right trailer for the job.

I would guess that the wear on the bottom of the sponsons is on every trailered catamaran but most people don't bother to look and let their dealers know of the problem.

When I vented my frustrations to my trailer manufacturer (a big West Coast manufacturer), it fell on deaf ears and they did not want to listen to some boat owner. They did offer to provide any parts I needed but that was of little matter to me if they weren't going to redesign the bow stop and front bunks. So, I took matters in my own hands and, at my own expense, made the changes.

I found a local trailer manufacturer, who made me sign a liability waiver, who would build the v-bunk section for the front because they had the ability to lift the front of the Tomcat in place to take the proper measurements for the angle needed for the v-bunks. Being paid time and material, he listened patiently and did as I asked, even making some refinements that I liked. It took a couple of modifications before I was satisfied, then I took the parts I built with his to a galvanizing company. His charge to me was $750.

Lucky for me the boating community is in a down economy because he told me he would not had the time or willingess to modify another manufacturer's trailer before the downturn. But they were short of work so he was willing to work with me. Because it was not his trailer I was criticizing, he was not defensive and said all the changes I made were the right ones. Therefore, I am confident of sounding off my opinion in this forum.

George
 
That looks like some great work George.

I see part of your solution was to reduce the surface area of the trailer in contact with the bunks, specifically toward the bow.

Did you explore other materials that may be less abrasive to cover the forward portion of the bunks? You mentioned slicks will help.
 
Matt,

I did explore all the typical materials. They are UHMW, delrin and other like materials. I noticed they are used by most of the trailer manufacturers and I also noticed they show signs of gouging by the knife edge of the sponsons. These materials must be fastened to the bunks with countersunk screws. I did not like the idea of one of these screws backing out and gouging my gelcoat.

Tie Down Manufacturing makes the Slick Bunk. It wraps around the wood bunks and you fasten it by screwing into the side of the wood. You must remove the carpeting to put these on. Since the attachment is on the sides, any screw that make work out will not scratch your gelcoat.

The slicks also have slightly raised areas along the length of the slicks so that it breaks any vacum tendencies. Many of us have experienced how it is difficult for a large v-hull boat to dislodge itself from the carpeted bunks because of this tendency for a "vacum suck", if I can use that term. The raised portion of the slick bunk is very slight and hardly noticeable but just enough to reduce your breakaway friction.

With Slick Bunks, it is so effective one has to be careful not to put it on 100% of your bunks or your boat can slide off the trailer backing down or accelerating up the ramp. There are incidences where people have left their bow strap off backing down and the boat slid off the trailer, similar to rollers. The reason I do not like rollers is the weight is too concentrated on the rollers because you don't have enough surface area to spread the load, but that's just my opinion, not an engineered one. But rollers are not an effective design for the Tomcat because of the sharp angle needed on the front part of our sponsons.
 
George,

It would seem that a short section of rollers in the forward area would reduce the rubbing motion of which you complain. Would something like that work?

John
 
John,

I don't think the rollers would help because the sharp angle of the knife edge of the front end of the sponson is so narrow. By the time you turn the rollers on its side to match the angle, you essentially lose the effectiveness of a roller. I suppose a series of rollers spaced close together could do the job but I see that as quite a bit more complicated and too chancy since it was on my dollar to come up with something.

Another very important thing to know: You cannot have too wide a gap at the bottom of your v, where the leading edge of the sponson could slide into and gouge itself on your framework or brackets. Mine are spaced about 1" apart maximum, just enough to get the pressure off the knife edge of the sponsons. This was something the trailer manufacturer who built these v-bunks pointed out to me.

George
 
OK, George, since you seem close to the source here, another dumb question.

The old original C-Dories had a brass or bronze strip on the bow/keel entry, I thought, to take some of the damage from beaching, trailering, etc..

I don't think the TomCat 255 has those reinforced strips, BUT... Isn't the sharp bottom of that bow/keel area reinforced with something to make it less damaging -less likely to get water damage to the hull from abrasion on the edges - than, say, the rest of the hull?

John
 
John,

There is nothing to make me believe that there is reinforcement on my sponsons from the wear that I was seeing. It looked like standard resin/fiberglass then finished with gelcoat. Discovery and Napoleon have said they experience similar wear pattern. At what point does this wear lead to more damage if there was water intrusion, I didn't want to find out.

Looking at your pictures, I would be interested to know if you see any wear on your boat. It looks like your forward bunks are not as far forward as mine, so your wear, if any, may be minimal. Can you verify this? The forward edge of my forward bunks lined up to the aft attachment point of the bow rail.

Also, are your forward bunks lined with delrin or uhmw strips or is it carpet?

George
 
I think you can get "wear" on the gelcoat, which is not very thick, no matter how thick and strong the hull is. You can get it from the rubbing of a mooring line over the deck edge!

I cannot believe that the knife edge of the sponson leading edge isn't very thick and strong and that it would take A LOT of "wear" to have any effect on integrity of the hull... Take a look at the inside of the hull and the outside and compare them.

Charlie
 
George,

I keep my boat in the water all year 'round. When it is put on the trailer, it is lowered onto the trailer with the marina's hoist since that is how my home marina operates. Once loaded, it travels 1500-2000 miles with a few on/off rounds at normal ramps. As such, I do not have much experience with hull/trailer bunk wear. I will go out to the storage field here in a month or so and check out the trailer bunks.

So far, my TomCat easily drives right up the stop with little need for power and no need for the winch. I doubt I have much wear.

John
 
Just wanted to let you all know that I ordered my Float-on Trailer today.

Tim was very nice, quite helpful, and completely patient with my many questions. And, it is clear he is very proud of and confident in their product.

Looking forward to getting the boat home. :)

Thanks...
---
mike
 
OK, I went out to the trailer storage yard last weekend to check out my 2007 TomCat, factory issue trailer.

As I've mentioned, I am very happy with it's ease of performance - I've never even had to crank the boat up to the stop, just drive it right on.

My TomCat trailer already has the black silicon pads all the way along the bunks. The forward bunk is about six feet long, has four pads right and left, each side. The boat never touches the carpeted bunk. And my forward bunks are "V" shaped, not flat as shown in a previous photo.

So, it looks to me like the standard TomCat, Factory issue, trailer is about as good as you can get. ...not to dis the all aluminum Float-On!

John
 
John,

What brand trailer do you have? Any chance you could take a picture of your trailer without boat next time you launch?

George
 
George,

Mine is an E Z Loader, it says that on all the black silicone pads. My front bunks are about a 120 degree V, like some of those shown here, but mine came with the black silicone pads over the entire length - no carpet to boat contact.

I spent last weekend on the boat and, pending the weather, may go back again this weekend. Mine looks like the other E Z loaders, but with the black silicone plates over all the bunks.

I am surprised at the flat forward bunks shown in your trailer photo. That must not be an E Z Loader.

Mine has removable guides and movable center guides to allow the straps from the travel lift to lift and reset the hull without any changes. Just some quick snap pins to pull and the guides come loose.

I do not have the three axles like some of you show, but I've had no weight problems nor any handling problems with the dual axle.

John
 
I had Napoleon hauled out and set on blocks so I could touch up the knife edge worn from the trailer bunks. I thickened epoxy resin with colloidal silica and applied it to the high wear area. I applied a little more to offer some protection for future launches. I will also address the forward area of the bunks and choose a replacement material.
 
OK I'm about to buy slicks to reduce the wear on the knife edge. Stupid question...Tie Down says their products are for the standard 2X4 and 2X6 bunks. My bunks are 2X6, yet the measurements for the 2X6 slicks read: 3" X 16" pieces.

I want to screw this in on the sides of the bunk and of course not the center. Am I missing something? Do 2 sections connect together somehow to cover the 6" wide bunk span? There would also need to be extra material (i.e. wider than 6") so I can screw them into the sides.

Thanks for the help...
 
Matt,

You need the GLIDE ON model #86172. The product you are describing is for another application (I think they are called Slicks?)

George
 
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