Bimini top

C

crags

New member
I have a 2006 C-Dory 225 TomCat. (Just returned from a trip in it to Montreal and back to NC.)
Due to the heat here in the summer we are considering adding a Bimini top to cover the aft cocpit. Several questions are nagging me:
Should it fold forward to rest just above the door ? Or backward to rest just forward of the engines?
If it attaches to the top of the cabin with standard type snaps do the snaps hurt the integrity and watertightness of the cabin?
Any advice would be appreciated as would pictures.

Hope to be at the gathering in Oriental in September - perhaps with a new cover.
 
Hi
Welcome to this great sight, I have a 22 and the top stores back towards the engine. I does make it easer to get in and out while docked with the post back. Hope to meet you at the NC Cruise
Jim
 
Carl,
Check out the pics in my album...I have a rubber strip (washer if you will) running aft of my snaps where they attach to the rear of the cabin roof that keeps water out. The way I'm set up I can store the bimini against the cabin or pushed back (or I can release the whole thing and put in down inside the cockpit).
Remember, get exactly what you want as all biminis are not created equal.
Chuck
 
You can have both. Our bimini folds up against the cabin for trailering. When out on the water and we want to open the cockpit up to the sun, it folds back in a standing position over the aft cockpit. Just roll the fabric, pull the support bar back, and put the cover on it. Almost looks like an arch in the aft position. I've seen some boats trailer with the bimini in that position (and I've done it for short distances at low speeds).
 
My new canvas has three panels on the rear (and two on each side). If I remove all 3 rear panels there is nothing holding the top down in the rear. Does your canvas work the same way? I am thinking of having the canvas guy rig up something so I can use the top without any panels (straps from top to cockpit or braces in the frame.)

Warren
 
Hi Carl and Steve, I have a 2007 CD22; across the back of the cabin roof is a built-in slot into which slides a rubber(?) hose with a zipper attached to it. The bimini top zippers to that -- no snaps on the cabin roof are necessary. I've no idea if you have simi.ar on your TC 25, but check it out. Cheers, Rod
 
Carl, I've got a 2006 TC255 as well. My bimini is a stock one from West Marine and at rest, it sits on two supports that hold it in the aft position over the transom with the cover on it. It does not fasten to the cabin top at all but to two "eyes" on the cabin sides forward and to two "eyes" on the transom with straps. It works well and stands up to winds just fine.

Charlie
 
The rear bimini arch is held back by a connection between the back tubing supports and the 3 aft pieces are not required to hold that back arch in place, although it could look that way and does often work that way in pontoon and other wide bimini installations.

An aluminum channel is run across the aft cabin roof into which the front of the bimini slides with a snap lock tab on P and S sides.

I have to release the aft bow support pivot point to move the folded bimini up against the radar arch/cabin area for prolonged fishing. The bimini easily unzips from the aft cabin insert and can then be folded back to the bows over the aft cockpit, supported by the same small tubing arm that holds the aft bow in position when opened.

John
 
Steve , I love your dog ! I had one like that for about 15 years. Sadly he's gone now but what a neat dog. He would get that catch me if you can look and take off to our pond for a long swim ! Oh and I like your bimini too. Where did you get your made at ? Thanks..Tracy :D
 
I have an Anchor Shade on my 25. It has been a little disappointing, in that when winds get to 9-10mph the shade starts to lift off the center support and collapse. In calm winds it works fine, though.
 
The forward part of the top is attatched to the cabin top with "awning railing"--today it is vinly--used to be aluminum. There is a vinyl bolt rope, which slides into the awning railing--and then the top zippers to this and velcro over the top, to make a totally watertight connection if properly done.

When making a shade top, it is best to be able to remove the first small pannel, to allow free air flow during hot weather under the top. (See Thataway's album). The better tops will have supports fore and aft to make the top fully independantly standing. The cheaper tops will just rely on the attatchement to the cabin top (awing rail).

Also you can put sliders on the inner part of the cocpit to allow the bottom attatchement of the bows, or use several attatchement points for the bows so that the top can be folded either back or foreward.

HOWEVER, DO NOT, keep the canvas on the frame when trailering. I have had some tops which do fine in a boot when you do this , if properly secured. However last year, I had one which chafed and put holes in the top. That should not happen--but it can if not properly designed....
 
Back
Top