Blocking a CD-25 on the hard

L

Lucky Day

New member
Can a C-Dory 25 cruiser be safely blocked on the hard using cinder blocks or wood blocks at four points without jacks at the bow?

I want to do some minor mechanical and cosmetic work on my boat on shore. I do not have a trailer. The boat would be on blocks for a period of a week or two -- not for the season. The boat has a Honda 135 on the transom, batteries and other miscellaneous heavy gear in the stern area. I weigh about 200 lbs. I will not be carrying heavy tools, etc.

I need to be able to move about on board as far forward as the foredeck area and be able to reach the cabin top from the sides.

So the question: With weight at the stern and with blocking under the corners at the stern, and blocks under the sides at the foremost area of flat bottom (without jacks further forward under the v-shaped area at the bow) will the boat be balanced and stabile enough to move around onboard without the boat tipping forward off the blocks? Or rolling off the blocks to the sides?

Anyone have experience with this?
 
I have blocked a number of boats--Concrete blocks are not my favorite-if used they have to be laid on the flat, not on end. (They can crumble if heavily loaded, without the rebar, fill with concrete etc).

If you want to go with concrete blocks, you need to first support the transom, with blocks from the chine inward--and wood stacked to match the dead rise of the boat. I also want a support in the middle of the boat just foreword of the transom--so the transom is supported at the aft part of the blocks.

Forward, I want the keel blocked about every 3 to 4 feet, and would put jack stands up forward where the "flat" (not really flat) terminates. You can use auto jack stands, since the boat will probably not be high off the ground. I like to chain any jack stands to gather, so they will not slip. Auto jack stands, you have to have a 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 on top (same for the aft blocks. I like scrap carpet between the wood and boat--but not essential, especially if the bottom is painted...

To be safe--this is 3 blocks on the transom, one mid cockpit, one at the aft cabin bulkhead, and one under the keel, helm seat area. Lateral to this I would put jack stands to support the hull, and be sure and not deflect it. I have also seen boats laid on styrofoam blocks in the center, with jack stands or more foam for lateral support--I don't like that as well as real cribbing. Cribbing would be 4 x 4 or better 6 x 6 stacked in cross patterns, and then the 2/8 on the top. I also have some 12" thick wooden blocks which we have used under the keel.

Be safe!
 
We blocked a cc-23 last June to do bottom painting and misc repairs The boat yard used concrete blocks criss crossed then with 2by8 on top to protect gel coat in the front forward section just where v-berth and cabin meet This is where the most v is on our c-dory style boats .. Then they used 2 boat Jack stands for the back . Then before going up on the boat I ran a 3by6 across under the cockpit area behind the bulkhead door with car jack stnds . So it had 5 points to hold it up no problems at all walking and working on the boat topside and underside . I have pictures i'll try to post .Jim
 
I know you don't have a trailer but think about where the trailer supports are on your boat or would be if you had a trailer and put supports there with carpet on top. Our boats spend a lot of time on trailers.
 
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