BoatUS Flushing article

Seems like the link got "ellipsesed," so I searched it out because I'm interested in reading it. Let's see if I can get it to paste in fully:

http://www.boatus.com/magazine/2013/August/outboard-flushing-the-right-way.asp

Having read it.... okay, this was interesting. The Yamaha recommendation they quoted in the article was that when flushing (by muffs, bag, or the built-in flushing port) the prop should be removed. I didn't see this recommendation in the article for the other brands.

This sounded like a pain to me (especially if at a ramp, etc.) (time to order about ten castle nuts and cotter pins!), but then I decided to check the specific manual for my engine (2002 Yamaha F80) and I found that they don't mention this at all in the flushing instructions. They even show the prop ON the engine in the diagram. I'm kind of glad!

Sunbeam
 
rogerbum":19an8xxk said:
Here's...a link that will work ... oops - Sunbeam beat me to it!
Click to expand...

This example makes me curious about board behavior.

So, I posted the corrected link at 2:14, and you posted the second correction link at 2:24. I doubt it took you ten minutes to write your post, so you'd think mine would already have shown up. Except...

When I originally posted it at 2:14, it was only with the corrected link. Then I went and read the article and saw the detail about removing Yamaha props to flush, so I added a query about the prop removal thing. Then I went and read my Yamaha manual, and then edited my post to add the material about that. When I finished the edit and sent it in, I noticed your post beneath mine. So (and not that this is a big deal, but I just like to know how things work), I wonder if posts that are in the process of being edited are invisible?
 
I have a related question.

On a Honda 90 the manual says to not run the motor when on the flush hose.

So what do you do first thing in the spring when you want to make sure the engine will start when you put the boat in the water.

Bill Kelleher
 
OK, thanks.
The manual only said how to use flushing port and not to run the engine.

I am coming from twin diesels. ( just a little difference ) LOL

Bill Kelleher


ssobol":22c9jokt said:
Use muffs and a hose on the water intake on the lower unit.
Click to expand...
 
I am interested in topic also. I am interested in running my Honda engine out of the water. Do you have any info on the 'muffs' that are appropriate for a 90HP 2003 Honda outboard? Do date I have my engine serviced, but I would like to perform some of the more routine maintenance myself.
Regards,
Jack Howell
 
This could save you some time with flushing twin 90 HP Hondas. The parts can be bought at any hardware store like Home Depot. The flush container that hold the SALTAWAY can come with the product.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _album.php

Using the flush port in the rear cowling I can't run the engines; but, I can run SALTAWAY thru the blocks. If I choose to run the OBs I have to use two(2) "muffs" to run both engines to flush everything in the OBs; else, only one for one.

Art
 
The other issue is when you leave the boat in the water. We flush the engine, but with the hose (or salt away in a garden spray container with a hose fitted to the flush port). This does not allow us to flush the water pump--a disadvantage--since we do not run the motor with the boat on the hose flush in the side or rear of the engine.

One other caution--just because the engine "pees" when on the muffs before the season (or any time), it does not mean that the water pump is in good condition, so alway check to see if the stream is coming out of the port when you first start the engine.
 
Sunbeam":32i94540 said:
rogerbum":32i94540 said:
Here's...a link that will work ... oops - Sunbeam beat me to it!
Click to expand...

This example makes me curious about board behavior.

So, I posted the corrected link at 2:14, and you posted the second correction link at 2:24. I doubt it took you ten minutes to write your post, so you'd think mine would already have shown up. Except...

When I originally posted it at 2:14, it was only with the corrected link. Then I went and read the article and saw the detail about removing Yamaha props to flush, so I added a query about the prop removal thing. Then I went and read my Yamaha manual, and then edited my post to add the material about that. When I finished the edit and sent it in, I noticed your post beneath mine. So (and not that this is a big deal, but I just like to know how things work), I wonder if posts that are in the process of being edited are invisible?
Click to expand...
No - I'm sure that such posts are visible. I probably hit the button to compose a reply and was in the edit window for 10+ minutes while I found the correct link, read the article and then came back and composed my reply (w/o looking back to see that you had replied prior).
 
I don't like any of the methods they listed as I really never trust those ear muffs, flushing fittings, or duct tape. I just run mine in a round plastic garbarge can full of water that I bought specifically for this purpose. It works great and there are no worries. I don't know if you could do this with a 90 or larger, but it works great for my 45s.

However, while the dunk tank is good, using the excuse with the wife you have to go fishing at a local fresh water lake to flush the motors is way better....LOL.....And it works most of the time too!
 
I'm not convinced a motor flushes properly unless it is ran enough to open the thermostats. After saltwater use, I stop by a local river launch ramp to run the motors at high idle till I'm convinced the t'stats are open. I also run the motors in gear for a short while to get all the salt away from the prop and seal.The river method also cleans the salt off the brakes and trailer. At home I plumbed in a hot/cold water supply that I use with ear muffs. The motor quickly gets up to temp so the t'stats open. I use salt away every third or fourth time or if it is going to be stored for the winter.
 
It also says you can run a Suzuki when flushing thru the ports. I'm going to try that with hoses hooked up to both ports and see if I get a stream...

Any comments? 1000 rpm max.

Charlie
 
Charlie,
You should get a stream of water when running the hose thru the engines without running them.

I would be very leery of running the engines on just the hose to the flush ports. There will be no water flow to the impeller--and a chance of burning it up.

I read a number of posts from the Suzuki forums and no-one recommended running the engine when on the flush ports. Another issue is getting the engine hot enough to open the thermostats--and I agree with Forrest. My home canal/bayou is fresh water, so running the boat even at an idle for the 10 minutes from the brackish bay to the lift is enough to get good fresh water thru the entire system--since the Thermostats are already open. On the muffs, it is doubtful that the T stat will open on the muffs or flushing thru the ports. The water from the "pee" stream is directly from the impellor on the Suzuki (so I read)--Some motors I have do get warm from that stream. I'll have to check my 140 next time I run it.
 
OK, if the water from the p stream comes directly from the impeller, and it will p when just using the flushing ports w/o running the engine, I don't see why I can't run the engine. The flushing water must get to the impeller somehow. I must be missing something. Didn't try it yet. And won't until I know more.

Charlie
 
The water is not coming into the bottom of the impeller, and the housing will still run dry. Don't take my word for it--there are folks who have burned up their impellers.
 
I have a similar set-up with the hose-splitter for the twins, and it is money well spent.

It is also important not to neglect the external hardware.
Salt and corrosion can destroy an engine from the outside in as well.


David
 
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