Bomar Hatch Leaking

P

Peter_BDA

New member
Hi all, as a background I replaced the plexi in my Bomar hatch when I bought the boat as it was cracked. I also installed a solar vent (not the issue here).

I have had to re-bed the plexi 3(?) times now as the sealant hasn't seemed to take. I have tried a variety of sealants and/or glues (this is a hot environment ) and yet it still leaks around the edges where it doesn't seem to have a good seal between the sealant/plexi and frame.

I have abraded the edges of the plexi where it comes into contact with the sealer and made sure that the aluminium frame is clean as well.

There really doesn't seem to be enough depth for the sealant to get a decent a purchase in my mind......

I am running out of patience! Any ideas or suggestions?

I am going to give this %^$&* hatch one more chance before I do something radical!

Peter
 
Many sealants just don't seem to bind to the frame or the lens. This is the stuff that BOMAR recommends, and I have used it with great success.
GE SilPruf SCS2000 Silicone Sealant
Get it at Amazon.
 
I replaced all of the pilot house windows in our Cal 46 with lexan about 5/16" thick--floated off the fiberglass, by about 1/16" with spacers and an over lap of over 1"--20 years later these same windows are in place and had not leaked a drop--despite the boat full time cruising. (Different owner in the last 12 years)...

I am quite sure that it was the GE SilPruf SCS2000 Silicone Sealant Which we used also. We checked with the folks who were glazing the megayachts.

One problem you may have now, is having put silicone on the edges and the plexiglass, getting any other silicone to adhere. I know that one has to be very careful both sanding and cleaning plexiglass--it is easy to build up internal stresses, which will cause cracking. But you will have to get any of the old silicone off both the frame and plexiglass.

Also leave a little of the silicone under the plexiglass between the frame and plexiglass--I would use about 1/32 of an inch of gasket material--cut in a few very fine pieces to give that spacing, but not allow them to come to the edge of the plexiglass or frame. You have to have that sealant on the two sides--not just the one edge.
 
I re-glued the cabin windows on Our Journey after they popped out. Here's a few comments. And I hope I never have to do it again.

First, you need to lift the plexiglass off the seating surface in order to have some adhesive between the plastic and the aluminum, as Bob mentioned. I did this with O-rings, certainly easier than cutting anything up and more precise.

Next, I replaced the plastic with Lexan, cause it's unbreakable. However the Lexan I got was not for use in salt water and would cloud over. GE (the manufacturer, wouldn't you know,) recommended polishing the surface. So that's what I did for years. Later I found out that they make a Lexan for salt water.

The message is to ask when you buy the plastic. I didn't.

Also, there's a guy in Newport Beach who'll replace/reseal those hatches for you. It isn't cheap.

And, yes those windows are still in place, and I never discussed it with the new owner. They were polished when I sold the boat.

Boris
 
The sealant I've used successfully is SeamerMate. I unsuccessfully tried other silicon, but this works great and dries rather quickly. It is available at Home Depot near the rain gutters. Ron
 
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