Bottom Paint .....Paint Line

T

Tug

New member
If you know where the scum line is on the transom, can you just measure that height and than use that measurement to determine where the paint line should go on the rest of the hull.I did too good of a job cleaning off the scum, now all i have is a photo to show where the scum line was.Is that a correct assumption seeing that the hull is flat. Tug
 
Tug-

You'll also have to know where the scum line is on the bow, as the boat may or may not float level with the bottom, depending on your individual loading.

I'd also make the paint line a little above the water line, as the boat gets wet from wave action and can grow slime above the floating water line.

Foe myself, I'd make the paint line 1-1/2 inches above the waterline, then add a contrasting trim line out of plastic trim tape to separate the colors and make a contrast.

IM001894.jpg

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
The Sharpie and 4 corner method. You place the boat in the water and mark each corner with a Sharpie then adjust to your needs. I like Joe's method on accent pinstriping, too. Very clean and sharp looking on his boat
 
Joe and Brent, thank you for the replies and information. I think i will wait until i can get my boat into the water to properly determine the paint line. The Sharpie 4 corner method sounds like the way to go.I like that trim line also. Tug
 
BrentB":3iyiztle said:
The Sharpie and 4 corner method. You place the boat in the water and mark each corner with a Sharpie then adjust to your needs. I like Joe's method on accent pinstriping, too. Very clean and sharp looking on his boat
Click to expand...

Your boat only has 4 corners if it's a TC255! Otherwise 3... :wink:

Charlie
 
In a closely related subject, i would like to double check to see if i have calculated the correct amount to order , would two ( 2 ) gallons of Interlux InterProtect 2000 Epoxy Primer and one ( 1 ) gallon of Interlux Micron CSC be enough to bottom coat a 1985 C-Dory Angler. Tug
 
I emailed Interlux about the amount of paint i would need and i received this response.



Sure we would be happy to assist. Based off the specs which you have provided to us 22 x 7.6 x 0.85 = 142sq ft of a wetted surface area per coat.



- Micron CSC covers 440 sq ft per coat. If you take the 142/440 = 0.32/just over a quart per coat. So for 2 coats you will need just under 3 quarts and for 3 coats you will need just under 1 gallon. My recommendation would be to purchase 1 gallon.

- InterProtect 2000E covers 240 sq ft per coat. If you take 142/240 = .59/just over half a gallon per coat. So for 4 coats you will need just over 2 gallons. My recommendation would be to purchase 2 gallons.



Hope this helps!



Regards,
 
Need help! I lost my bow water line mark, i cannot refloat it because i removed the bait tank hose attachment on the transom.There are 4 screw holes that need to be filled in. How far above the brass keel guard is a good place to put the water line or how far below the bow ring should i go.Tug
 
Tug,

If you have the "four corners" marked, you can set the trailer to have those marks all level on a level ground. then you can make a marker ruler or trammel type thing using an old lamp stand or Christmas tree stand or jack stand with a vertical pi;e and a horizontal stick or pipe with a marker on it.

Then just move the base around, keeping the vertical upright and trace the distance from the floor to the boat hulll. It will get pretty funky looking, the shape that you will end up with.

Like Joe, I've heard it's best to put the bottom paint 2 inches above the actual water line. On my TomCat, the marina put the bottom paint exactly on the water line and I had a continuous strip of mold just above that. Water, as you know, rarely holds still - the normal state of water is ripples and wavelets.

John
 
Is the scum line the actual water line? I not sure if i did it right but i managed to get the paint line on my boat. I looked through the photo albums and than winged it.On one of my boats photo's you can see the scum line and the water line from wave action. I drew the water line a few inches above the scum line, i would rather be high than too low.I had really no idea where the bow mark went, my boat is sitting fairly level so i tried to draw the line as straight as i could.I posted some pictures so if the are any obvious mistakes please let me know.Thanks Tug
 
Today i got around to raising the paint line about 2-3 inches above the water line.Washed and sanded the hull with a 80 grit disc on my orbital sander/than used a sanding sponge to do the tape line and hard to get at places.Washed the hull again,next i will erect a plastic enclosure for epoxy/bottom painting.I'm having fun doing something after the long winter.I posted some pictures.Tug
 
Sanded the hull today,used 80 grit on my orbital sander/sanding sponge and sand paper.It was cold today,5 degree Centigrade and it is suppose to snow/rain tomorrow.Took me six hours to do the job, but i got every inch. It is not a easy job,lots of sanding if you do it right...better than any marine yard i bet.I hope that the painting part is easier.Tug
 
Started to build a plastic enclosure around my boat today but it started snowing.I think i might scrap this plastic shed idea, it already cost me $60 and i only have 1/3 done.Think i will just put the original sides/back on and just close up the front with plastic.That should close off the boat from the elements and with a heater warm up the insides of the tent.I posted a couple of more pictures.Tug
 
Well i finished the plastic enclosure,i found a roll of plastic in the attic from when i did some insulating/used lumber i already had so it didn't cost me any more than the original $60.00.She is pretty well sealed up,about 95% done,hope the sun heats it up enough to paint. Sunday i will throw a heater inside and see if i can heat it up enough to fill some screw holes with Marine- Tex.I posted a few pictures.Tug
 
Weather was warm today,so i got the chance to fill some screw holes with Marine-Tex,will leave a heat lamp on overnite to help in curing.I decided to go ahead and put on the 1st coat of Interprotect 2000e,lots of crawling around.I hope the next 5 coats go on easier, lots of work.I will put a heater in the shelter tonite to help in the curing. Now that i have the 1st coat on, i can take my time doing the rest.

Whats the overcoat time between coats of Interprotect 2000e

On the can its says maxium 6 months
On the product descriptin site it says maxium 2 weeks

Thanks Tug
 
Tug: I have can of 2000E and the label say's At 50 degrees min. 5 hrs recoat max 20 hours. 60 degs, min 3 hrs max 18 hours. Min. to apply Antifouling paint 7 hrs, max 9 hrs. C-otter
 
That is strange: Recoat with Interprotect 2000e
_____________________________________________
Interprotect 2000e White Epoxy information on can
_____________________________________________
50-60 F degrees- minium 5 hr-maxium 2 weeks
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Interprotect 2000e Gray Epoxy information on can
___________________________________________
41-60 F degree-minium 5 hrs-maxium 6 months

Seems to be different recoat times with the two colours

Think i will have to call them! Tug
 
Called Interlux.com and spoke to s-1 from technical support and i was informed that for both the Interprotect 2000e white & grey colours the maxium recoat time with another coat of Interprotect 2000e is six months.Also both white and grey colours can now be appplied at a temperature of 41-60 degree F*. The formula was not charged but after excessive testing they found that the recoat time could be moved to six months.I was told i must have an older can of epoxy if the recoat time says two weeks.

Would it be alrite to put another coat of Interprotect 2000e today,everthing seem all dry.
Tug
 
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