Hi Larry!
No amount of layers of bottom paint would result in breaking a 2000# rated winch strap while trying to load. No amount of silicone is going to make that boat slide up your bunks at that particular ramp at the trailer depth you chose that day.
I bet the most likely issue here is that you were at a new and unfamiliar ramp (like City Marina Appalachicola under the bridge that Marc uses) which slopes down at a much more gradual angle than you or your boat are used to. If you had backed further down, the boat/trailer would have had 50# of carpet bunk friction to overcome, rather than 2,000 # or more. If you back down far enough, the boat could kiss the winch stand without touching the trailer bunks at all. Of course, by that point your truck's rear bumper might be underwater, and the boat might like loading sideways if there is no or minimal contact with the bunks, all of which is best avoided by prudent trailerboaters with a long enough trailer and tongue.
Much less likely would be a protruding bunk carpet bolt etc scratching the hull, but you'd notice this on the trailer before backing down the ramp.
The only other fly in your ointment I can think of is if you changed your hitch receiver, which also changes the angle of attack when you back the trailer in to load the boat. That should always be level or higer than the open transom plug, since enough of a Southern thunderstorm can dump over 6 inches of water in the boat in 1 hour, and it must drain out the bilge transom plug on the highway since water is very heavy.
My experience has been that BIG dual torsion axle trailers are best loaded as a '2-step' procedure...first, back in enough to have the FRONT trailer funders AWASH or 1" underwater, power the boat up onto the bunks until well centered and solidly on the bunks but not over 2000 RPM, then Eileen backs the rig down a few more feet (with huge rubber chocks 4-6 feet behind the truck's FRONT tires for insurance) until the top front fender is 3 inches or so underwater. Then it's easy to power load the rest of the way to the winchstand at under 3000 RPM. (We are grateful that we don't have to control and whip 300 actual horses to accomplish this). We like Ear Tec dual-talk headset radios, since I can't see her, and I don't wear my hearing aids boating. Tom Schulke of C-Otter pointed out dual cell phone headsets will also do this cheaper, but we don't like wearing our cell phones over the water.
I am surprised that your usual 'stomp the brakes at walking speed' won't slide her forward by 4 inches easy. You DID loosen the transom straps before doing that manuver (don't ask me how I know about this common error).
You will read how having the transom not fully supported by the rear bunks can cause a hull 'hook' and permanent problems, avoid that if possible if you're trailering back to PA. That's a big trip and I-95 is much more stressful on trailer and boat than the roughest rides on the water, esp with the transom and all that hangs off it not supported by trailer bunks.
If you can, I bet you'll solve this issue by backing in a bit deeper and winching up or powering up (after loosening transon straps, of course). That ramp has rocks at the end so your trailer won't fall off an abyss at the end of the ramp. Although the signs say "Absolutely NO POWER LOADING", Marc tells me 'that only applies to Bass Boats." Also, every guy around there will say 'Hey Man, I LOVE your Boat!"
Let us know if it works out,
John
