Brazillian Cherry Blues

H

hank schneider

New member
Hi Folks
As a general rule I don't think you should trust wood that does not float!! BC was suggested as a replacement for teak for making accessories so I found some 5/4 stock - planning to rip it and then plane it to 3/8 and 5/8 stock. I was shocked at how hard this wood is. I have basic Delta shop tool and the wood gave them a run for their money. It improved when I put new blades on the table and chop saws. Once the wood was reduced in size it was reasonable to work with.

Couple of questions
1. My Cape Cruiser has a sloped splash well that is slippery when wet - I was going to put some strips on to improve traction. Has anyone used this for exterior work? Any problems? As dense as it is I don't think water could do any harm.

2. Finishing - I was going to use oil for the interior stuff - any reason to not do the same for exterior applications.

3. Attaching - based on the factory installed stuff it looks like I'd be safe with screw penetration of about 1/2". How thick is the hull on these boats? One of the racks will go into hull material next to the drivers seat.

Thanks
Hank
 
I have cut and installed the 1 1/2 inch safety strips in my 25 in the area you step on in the engine well in coming and going to the swim step. They have stayed in place just fine and look like new 2 years later.

When ever possible I use 3M 5200 to attach modifications that I have built for the interior.
Overhead_cabinet_004.sized.jpg
The overhead cabinet and papertowel holder are entirely held up with 5200, as is the little shelf under them.

Map_magazine_rack.sized.jpg

This book rack is mounted over the table with only 5200.

You need to cut some braces the correct length and have everything ready to put in place and then apply the glue and hold in place for 24 hours.

Hope that helps.
 
I've used thicken 5 minute epoxy to hold book shelves and cabinets in place. You can hold the item in place for about 3 or 4 minutes and your good to go. I first bought the GL brand (I think thats the name) from West but one day I was in Lowes and noticed Elmers now makes 5 minute epoxy so I got some and it seems to be the same as the GL at half the price. If you look in my album the slide and cabinet extension for the freezer is held in place with thicken epoxy and it probably weighs 75 lbs loaded. I wipe down the BC in the area I'm going to apply the epoxy with acetone to remove any oil before applying the epoxy.

For the splash well I bought some 1" strips of adhesive backed anti skid also from Lowes and it's been in place for over a year. Not as nice as BC but a heck of a lot easier.

For finishing the BC I've been using polyurethane. It's practically impossible to put a screw in the BC it's so hard I almost think you could drill and tap it.
 
I use mahogany for wood add-ons, it matches teak in color and the grain is pretty close. 5200 does a great job of adhering it to the surface. I clean the surface with alcohol first and held it up temporarily with tape but that was a PITA, Dave on Anna Leigh (I think) suggested using a hot glue gun for a temporary hold while the 5200 cures. That works great and I highly recommend it.
 
colobear":3xg9tjwb said:
Dave on Anna Leigh (I think) suggested using a hot glue gun for a temporary hold while the 5200 cures. That works great and I highly recommend it.
Click to expand...

Do you mean you alternate hot glue and 5200 on the surface to be glued?

Thanks,
Warren
 
Warren,

I put the necessary amount of 5200 on the surfaces and put a dot of hot glue on the corners or wherever else I think I need it and quickly press the item into place. The hot glue just replaces tape. I try to avoid too much hot glue because I want more surface area for 5200.
 
I would be very careful with the assumption that the hull is 1/2" thick. Probably more like 1/4" or maybe 3/16 in some areas. It is very easy to drill through the hull (don't ask)--As the others, I use epoxy or 5200 to adhere materials to the hull side. You could screw from under the splash well into the strips (access issues)--or 5200 from the top (hot glue or fast set epoxy) to hold in place.

As others, we use the 3M non skid strips in splash wells and on the transom cap.

Jatoba is harder than Teak, and weathers slightly differently. Teak has a very high oil content, and is harder to "glue". Jatoba has a high resin content (which eventually degrades to amber)--It may not take oils as well as teak (I have not used it--but have used Iroko instead of Teak). You would not loose anything by oiling. Varnish might be a better choice, or letting it go raw.
 
Hi Folks
I'll have pictures soon to post. Is the 5200 is the same stuff used to seal holes for mounting stuff? How does this stuff compair to 5 min epoxy in terms of holding power.
Thanks for the warning about hull thickness - I'll check with calipers before I screw in and screw up.

Hank "Good with Glue"
 
hank schneider":2llnh0du said:
Hi Folks
I'll have pictures soon to post. Is the 5200 is the same stuff used to seal holes for mounting stuff? How does this stuff compair to 5 min epoxy in terms of holding power.
Thanks for the warning about hull thickness - I'll check with calipers before I screw in and screw up.

Hank "Good with Glue"
Click to expand...

Think of 5200 as really sticky soft rubber. Epoxy will cure solid as a rock. Epoxy will have greater holding power.
 
Think of 5200 as really sticky soft rubber.
Click to expand...

Note that 5200 is a glue and is very difficult to remove. Trying to remove items glued with 5200 can damage wood and gel coat and should be considered a permanent adhesive/sealer.
 
I don't usually disagree with Larry, but 3M classifies 5200 as a sealant, not an adhesive. It certainly has bonding properties. 5200 can be "debonded" using "DeBond" "DeBond Corporation began business in 1999 with our first product, Marine Formula™, a patented chemical product to remove polyurethane adhesive / sealants such as 3M™ 5200." Once epoxy has cured, it can not be "debonded"--thus is a better adhesive.

I often use both when applying wood to the side of the fiberglass hull--5 minute epoxy to get a really good bond, and 5200 to have some elasticity in the bond.

One of the problems with 5200, is that although it usually has a good bond, there are times it does not. Thus I do not trust the bonding to just 5200.

Also remember than any wood you are bonding needs to be very clean, free of oil (teak can be a problem--and often it is cleaned with a solvent to remove the surface oil)--I also like to roughen up the back of an object I am going to be adhering.
 
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