Bruce or Delta anchor

I think the BRM2 is what C-Dory puts on stock for the 22. I can tell you that a 16 lb bruce will NOT self launch. Had to change to a pivoting roller. However the BMR4 which is standard on the 25 is supposed to self launch with the Bruce.
 
Ours is a 2001 and came with, I think, a Sea Dog anchor roller, not a Windline BRM-2. We currently have an 11 lb. Bruce that will not self-launch off the replacement BRM-2. If a 14 lb. Delta would, I'd gladly make the switch.
Al
 
I don't know what model pivoting roller the factory put on my C-22, but it certainly self launches my Bruce clone nicely. I suspect it's the BRM-4, but there's no way for me to tell.
 
True Story":1yh7yazk said:
My question in regards to the BRM-2 roller is if a 13lb fluke style anchor will self launch or even fit this roller? I've gone down to West Marine several times over the past few months but they haven't had the roller in stock to try out for myself.
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My 1987 CD 22 came to me with a small Windline, as did my 1996 CD 25. Neither would self launch a fluke style anchor, nor would either of them self launch a Bruce. Both of them boats got the S/L pivoting jobs when the windlass showed up.

Both the Bruce and the fluke would fit into the Windline roller, but they had to be guided in by hand. It was very difficult to pull the shank through with the line.
 
Penny and I finished the installation of the 14# Delta with the Simpson Lawrence pivoting bow roller with the AR-4 for a fairlead.

:arrow: Tyboo,

Thanks for the affirmation of this rig. It caused me to make the right decision at a time when I was still indecisive.

:arrow: Tim,

I had purchased the AR-2 before your post. Then I checked out the AR-4. It was a better fit. Thanks for that detail.
 
I just purchased the Simpson Lawrence pivoting bow roller for my cd22. I was surprised at how large it is. Now I have to decide how to mount it. I would like to not extend the anchor much further forward when stored so my boat cover will still fit.

Looking at it I assume you have to mount the lower plate so the forward edge is past the bow so the pivoting part does not hit the boat. Has anyone installed one further back and if so does it still work? It would seem that the forward bolt is very far forward - any problems with this?

Also does anyone use this setup with the pivoting part bolted in the rear position? I have the Bruce anchor (16lb?)

What is the best way to repair the factory roller holes since they will not work with the new roller?

It is great to be able to get info from those that have done the same thing with the same boat.

Thanks,
Steve
 
If I recall from my CD22, the lower section is almost to the point of the bow but it does not have to hang over. Set it up there and move it forward until the top section will pivot all the way down without hitting the glass, and then move it just a hair farther out.

You will probably end up using the back hole for the pivot bolt, giving the most extension off the bow, because when it is tipped down, the point of the anchor can touch the hull otherwise. You will only have to modify your boat cover once!

Instead of filling the existing holes, I think what I did was mount the thing with the holes provided in the new roller base, and then took a stubby pencil to mark the underside of the bracket up through the holes already in the boat. A couple extra bolts won't hurt a thing. Or, you can just fill those holes with a liberal amount of 3M 5200, letting it over fill a bit and onto the deck. Then when you bolt down the new roller, they will be sealed. You shouldn't be able to see them, anyway.

I know the thing looks big, but once it is on it will look like it belongs.
 
seabran":qndyq0fl said:
I just purchased the Simpson Lawrence pivoting bow roller for my cd22. I was surprised at how large it is. Now I have to decide how to mount it. I would like to not extend the anchor much further forward when stored so my boat cover will still fit.
Click to expand...

Factory put my roller on. The King canvas cover works fine, though the anchor peeks out. Any closer and the anchor point will mess with your precious gel coat on retrieval or launch and surely ruin your day.

Windlass_bow.sized.jpg
 
As you can see, Steve, Sneak's roller is mounted a bit further out than what I was saying, and it still looks great. I think the reason his is out so far is because he tows with a Ford, and this way if the hitch falls off, the anchor can catch the tailgate and maybe save the boat.
 
TyBoo":3her7o0l said:
As you can see, Steve, Sneak's roller is mounted a bit further out than what I was saying, and it still looks great. I think the reason his is out so far is because he tows with a Ford, and this way if the hitch falls off, the anchor can catch the tailgate and maybe save the boat.
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Damn, Mike, I hate it when I miss the zingers, especially from a mostly bald dude who wakes the entire county when he lights his tractor off. Now I'll have to go back and search for any others that got missed because I thought you were zinging DaNerd. :cry:

I drive a Duramax/Allison Edge Juice equipped Chevy. :moon Pure power in a stylishly stealth diesel. Sheesh
 
We can't seem to get our Bruce that came with the Factory setup to self-launch. So I just loosen it up a bit to be ready when anticipating use... otherwise We give it a little puch with a dock pole.
 
I saw the Delta when I picked up Journey On at the factory (C-25.) It had a Delta, "marked made in China." They traded it for a Bruce (made in Brazil, I guess no-one worries about their anchor anymore.) I used a CQR plough anchor for years, in coral, mud rocks, sand, seaweed, etc. It only drug twice: in the Chesapeake Bay mud, and the Florida Keys sand. In a chop when the boat rocks, the anchor just works it's way through the ground. It is a plough, after all.

When I tried the Bruce on the 25, it self launched beautifully. Press the button, and down it goes, press the button and up it comes. San Diego Bay is mud, also, and the anchor held for a lunch hook, in about 15 knts. Also the mud is the kind which dries in 30 sec. after it comes out from the water and sticks like glue. The only problem was seeing where the rode went, so Judy could steer the boat there. Peering out the hatch worked.

What I need is some way to hose down the rode and anchor as it comes up. Anyone have a way of doing this, other than standing on the deck with a hose?
 
I installed the new SL pivoting bow roller. My boat cover just does still fit. The anchor is not that much more forward than with the factory roller. It looks like it will work fine but I have a question.

I have the Horizon 600 windlass and it pulls the anchor tang up off the deck so the pivot part of the roller does not seat on the deck. I am wondering if this will rock up and down as the boat is trailered and could is wear the pivot bolt? Does anyone have their's set up this way?

Thanks,
Steve
 
Steve -

No problem at all. Get you a piece of stiff rubber and glue it down to the base section right under the back end of the pivoting section. That will not only give the pivoting section something to rest on so it doesn't bounce, it's biggest value is stopping the bang when the anchor comes up into the roller. It can slam down pretty hard. You might also want to tie a flag on the chain a couple feet up from the anchor so you know when the anchor is ready to enter the roller. I like to jog it through the last couple of feet.

When I trailer mine for any distance, I tie a rope from the bow cleat and around the anchor. It is highly unlikely that the chain would ever get loose from the gypsy, but it would sure be ugly if it launched on the freeway. I never secure it when on the water, and it has never backed off enough to rattle.
 
I installed a Delta 14, powered by a Lewmar (Simpson Lawrence?) Pro Series 700 windlass, with the Lewmar pivoting bow roller. Also used a swivel anchor connector (WM #289274). Alhough I like the installation, I have had to do some retrofitting to make it work right. Here are some observations and thoughts.

The rode locker on the CD22 easliy holds the 20 feet of 1/4 chain and 200 feet of 1/2 inch line which is available as a package from West Marine (#151905). This package seems to feed smoothly through the windlass, and after being wetted down once, coils neatly into the locker, with the chain holding everything in place.

The anchor generally self-launches. It can hang up on the roller's front retaining strap, but that only requires a quick lift and drop cycle on the windlass to cure. This appears to be an occasional situation, of no particular consequence, so long as you watch what is happening.

Otherwise, the self-launch is slick as can be.

The windlass was not designed to hold the anchor and roller in place, and using it to do so can void the windlass warranty. In most waters, the windlass could be used to hold everything in place, with a snub rope and hook for security. However, if you get into real pounding water, the weight of the anchor pounding down at the end of the roller will result in windlass slippage, slack in the chain, and further pounding of the anchor as the roller eventually moves up and down to the full extent of it's limits. This situation is distracting as can be, and would eventually result in some kind of failure that I don't want to have to deal with. So, I drilled a hole through the four roller plates, just in front of the aft roller, and inserted a stainless steel ball release pin, which locks the anchor roller in place. This has yet to be field tested, but should take care of the problem.

I'm wondering what others have done to address this situation.

David on Alma's Only
 
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