Cabin, fitting-out questions.

V

Valkyrie

New member
Hi Everyone:

We're in the waiting stage of getting our 22 Cruiser and I was wondering if anyone knows the wattage of the cabin lights. Also, are they sufficient for reading, cooking and so on?

I was thinking of having the light over the galley replaced with a compact fluorescent model like we had on our sailboat. I'm also contemplating mounting two gooseneck reading lights in the v-berth, just inside the entry to port and starboard. Has anyone done anything similar?

How far do the interior cabin grabrails extend down from the overhead? Are they the same "height" as the ones on the cabin top?

A few questions that are not cabin related. Based on the advice of many C Brats, the dealer is going to install a bilge pump at the transom between the gas tanks. What model (gph) do you prefer?

One final question: having only seen the new 22 at the Baltimore Show, there are a few things that I missed or can't recall. On the new models with the two, twenty-five gallon gas tanks, do they extend further to the centerline of the boat, negating room for two, six gallon auxiliary tanks? If so, I'm wondering if, with a bilge pump mounted there, will there even be room for a single auxiliary tank.

As always, I appreciate your comments, tips and advice.

Nick
"Valkyrie"
 
The interior lights are GE 1004 and are 12 W. The 2 in the cabin seem to give plenty of light. There is only a single light of the same in the cutty cabin over the aft end on the port side.. I would prefer a second one one the starboard side for someone wanting to read there. In the 25 I have on order I am having the second one installed.

The distance between the two gas tanks is 27". I have installed a second bilge. Also the pump for the Bennet Trim tabs is mounted on the inside of the transom in that area. I think with the addition of somekind of protection to the two pumps there would be room under there for two 6 gal extra tanks.

The extra bilge pump is also 1100GPH. With the second one that is only 36 GPM which really isn't that much water. I also insisted on the pumps with the float switch and not the electronic ones. The latter cycles on every 10 minutes to "test" for water and then if there is any they kick on full speed. The constant cycling all night drives you crazy. On the 25 I am adding a second pump also and going with something more like 2K or 3K GPH.


I don't have the grab rails, but Pat on Daydream does and I remember them as being about the same as the ones on the roof.
 
Nick-

The Fluorescent lights come in a variety of configurations, but seem to mostly have either 8 or 16 watt tubes in them, either individually, or in pairs.

A single 16 watt tube will fill the entire cabin with about 5 times the amount of light as the factory incandescent bulb. Plus the color temperature is more pleasing (has blues and greens, not just reds and yellows). And, because it's more efficient, it's cooler in the summer.

I have one 16 watt fixture mounted up above the cabin door where it fits nicely out of the way (not a head-knocker), and thus lights the dinette table, the galley, and the rest of the cabin with one unit.

The fluorescent switch will have its own built-in switch, so you can wire it in parallel off the factory fixture so that you can use either one or both. That way you can still use the main switch at the helm, and have individual switches on each unit. Joe.
 
We had two of the standard lights installed on either side of the v-berth at the factory. They provide plenty of light for reading but a gooseneck might be better as it allows you to direct it more. The incandescents in the main cabin are fine for cooking and reading and I personally like the incandescent light a bit better than fluorscents... but too each his (or her) own.

The one place I wish I had a light but don't is in the cockpit area..I'll probably add one this year.
Roger on the SeaDNA
 
I like your idea of the gooseneck lights for the v-berth. I would look into the new lamps that use LED's. Saw some nice ones at the Seattle Boat Show. I don't remember the vender, but they had some small goosenecks. Robbi
 
Nick,

I've used LED lights in several locations and have been impressed by the results. They consume very little juice, the only caution I would add is that the light they put out is more concentrated. Kind off like the difference between a spot or a flood, with LED being the spot style. The LED's also do not get anywhere near as hot as the factory lights.

"Chivita" Dave
 
I had Les install a gooseneck light on the starboard side of the V-Berth as well as a gooseneck light off the upper helm shelf. I'm extremely pleased with both. (I have a red lens cover for the gooseneck over the helm which I can slip on if desired for night time cruising operations). A photo showing the gooseneck helm light may be viewed on page 4 of my photo album. (Additionally, this light can be "stretched" over towards the port side of the vessel and used as a night-time reading light for the individual sleeping on the "dinette bunk").
 
Chivita
Could you give some details about the LED lights you are using. How do they mount, how many lights are needed compared to incandesant, and where did you find them.
Thanks
Terry
 
I just put some carpeting on the floor in the cabin. I used the double stick tape but it does not seem to be sticking to the carpet. Anyone have any Ideas about what to use?

Also I have some boat carpet for he cockpit and I am wondering how to kept it in one place but still be able to take it out for cleaning. The carpet is on the factory floor boards.

I have new pics of this on page 3.

Thanks for any help?
Steve
 
It also works to just use a carpet type that has a stiff backing that won't roll up easily, and cut it so that it tightly just fits in the floor cavity with cutouts, notches, and small slits around the irregularities of the border, leaving it no room to slide around. Joe.
 
They also sell carpet runners at Wally World that are exactly a perfect fit for the aisle of a CD22, no matting or tape required...more than a few people have found these.


dogon dory":r85nqsff said:
The rubber matting designed for keeping rugs from moving around on hardwood floors. They sell it at WalMart (where else?)
Click to expand...
 
I should be more specific when I write these posts. The carpet in on the main floor is just fine between the cabinets. But I also put carpet under the table and cut it to fit the doors to get to the storage. I also cut little pieces to cover the step by the door where the bilgepump is. I am thinking I might just use a little silicone on the double-stick tape I put down. It sticks to the starboard but not the carpet. I don't need it permanent, just don't want it falling off every time I sit at the table.

Thanks,
Steve
 
Sea Angel here;

I too added carpet over desk matting as was suggested. Good investment and easy on the feet and legs.

I also added the Interior Port & Starboard Grab Rails. They are pictured on the last page(4) of Sea Angel. The last 3 pixs. The mounting screws from the original top side hand rails were abt 3/32s too short, so I had to make a run to West Marine for 4 longer screws & inside star washers. After that was done, it was a 'piece-of-cake' to install.

These rails will be a great way to dry our socks and 'stuff'. I just hope I don't drop them into anything cooking in a pot on the Wallace. Maybe it might improve the taste?
 
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