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Cable Run
- Thread starter toyman
- Start date
I am not sure I understand your question. I ran a NMEA 2000 set up for a Lowrance fuel flow meter, with the transducer in the fuel line, powered the bus from the console, and ran the cable up along the shifter and throttle cables. Used electrical zip ties to hold the fuel flow meter wire in place, and fished it behind the head pannels. It is easier to fish from the cockpit into the cabin under the sink--leave at least one 1/8" dacron line in place for future cables or lines. As I recollect the length of the wire harness was about 20 feet.
Captains Cat
New member
I agree with Bob. I'd follow an existing run, it's usually easier!
Charlie
Charlie
Oh, I will follow an established run, I just wasn't sure if CD sealed their penetration in the aft cabin wall, or not (nor exactly sure of where it might be). I would guess that it would be above the level of the cockpit floor to prevent water intrusion ? I guess I need to run the digital camera back under the head and have a "look see". I checked for 'pulls' (strings/lines left in place after a pull - for future pulls), that I hoped the factory (or riggers) may have left but found none. :x
journey on
New member
If the question is where do the cables run from the rear to the front on a C-25, the answer is:
They go through the port (that's left, isn't it?) lazerete, above the cutout in the side panel, through a hole in the aft cabin bulkhead, outboard of the head bulkhead and into the under sink area, thence forward to the throttle console and up to the electrical panel. It's easy to trace. Just follow the steering hoses from the steering pump (wheel) back, or the hoses from the engine forward.
Use a fish tape to run the cable, one segment at a time. Tape the front of the cable to make sure it goes through smoothly, especially if it has a plug on it. I had to remove the refrigerator to go through that compartment, and drill another hole for the wires/hoses/cables I was running.
I'd support the flowmeter with a strap or tiewrap to some structure so that the hose doesn't hang directly from the filter.
Boris
They go through the port (that's left, isn't it?) lazerete, above the cutout in the side panel, through a hole in the aft cabin bulkhead, outboard of the head bulkhead and into the under sink area, thence forward to the throttle console and up to the electrical panel. It's easy to trace. Just follow the steering hoses from the steering pump (wheel) back, or the hoses from the engine forward.
Use a fish tape to run the cable, one segment at a time. Tape the front of the cable to make sure it goes through smoothly, especially if it has a plug on it. I had to remove the refrigerator to go through that compartment, and drill another hole for the wires/hoses/cables I was running.
I'd support the flowmeter with a strap or tiewrap to some structure so that the hose doesn't hang directly from the filter.
Boris
Boris, our 25 had the head on the Starboard side, (right) and the cables, both electrical and control went thru the cutout just below the deck in the aft cabin bulkhead between the head and hull, then under the sink, behind the refer--and then to the electrical pannel. We use a metal fishing tape 25 feet long for all of the primary fishing--sometimes it is easier to use a metal coat hanger. You can also even open an area up under the shifter binacle to help passing the fishing line if necessary.
However, we did run a secondary power system from the aft area, into the hanging locker on the port side, (left) and to auxillary batteries on both the Tom Cat and C Dory 25. The shorter run is to Starboard.
There have been changes in wiring thru the years, so different years may have some slightly different runs.
However, we did run a secondary power system from the aft area, into the hanging locker on the port side, (left) and to auxillary batteries on both the Tom Cat and C Dory 25. The shorter run is to Starboard.
There have been changes in wiring thru the years, so different years may have some slightly different runs.
journey on
New member
Bob, you're absolutely correct. And, for me, that's one advantage of having Judy along. She's learned to just point when giving directions. Starboard is the correct side.
ALL C-25'S HAVE THE HEAD ON THE STARBOARD SIDE. As is the refrig and throttle and electrical panel. Boris can't tell left from right. And the communication from the aft is through the cabin bulkhead at the level of the coaming pocket. There is no communication through the bilge.
So just change the above discussion "port" to "starboard"
Boris
ALL C-25'S HAVE THE HEAD ON THE STARBOARD SIDE. As is the refrig and throttle and electrical panel. Boris can't tell left from right. And the communication from the aft is through the cabin bulkhead at the level of the coaming pocket. There is no communication through the bilge.
So just change the above discussion "port" to "starboard"
Boris
Boris,
I have to laugh--because the original 25 cruiser has the head on the Port side (at least the two I have seen did). Not sure that this is really a "25" or not!
The communication is as Boris noted, just under the deck through the aft bulkhead--not in the bilge. Unfortunately, there may be some cummunication under the head floor where the holding tank is aft in the 2002 thru 2004-5 25's. I suspect that a little bilge water came in through that area--and re-sealed it. (Not easy to do, but a long extension on a "great stuff" can seemed to do the job.--use plastic tubing which fits over the plastic tube). Recently I have acquired a video borescope to look into these areas--makes it a lot easier--Millwake about $100 for the AA battery model. This might also be an aid in passing the wiring through these blind areas.
I have to laugh--because the original 25 cruiser has the head on the Port side (at least the two I have seen did). Not sure that this is really a "25" or not!
The communication is as Boris noted, just under the deck through the aft bulkhead--not in the bilge. Unfortunately, there may be some cummunication under the head floor where the holding tank is aft in the 2002 thru 2004-5 25's. I suspect that a little bilge water came in through that area--and re-sealed it. (Not easy to do, but a long extension on a "great stuff" can seemed to do the job.--use plastic tubing which fits over the plastic tube). Recently I have acquired a video borescope to look into these areas--makes it a lot easier--Millwake about $100 for the AA battery model. This might also be an aid in passing the wiring through these blind areas.
I've used air, both pressure and vacuum, to move a messenger thru an area. I'll probably try a leaf blower to blow a string ( with a bit of paper ) thru there, then I'll be in business.
Of course the $200 will buy a half a tank of fuel, my fuel gage will give me a pretty good estimation of remaining fuel. I may not mess with it.
Of course the $200 will buy a half a tank of fuel, my fuel gage will give me a pretty good estimation of remaining fuel. I may not mess with it.
Unless your boat has some some more obstructions than mine did, it is not hard to run a standard metal fishing tape thru these areas...
The builders of the Caracal did it right--there are several PVC pipe runs under the floor for wiring, cables and plumbing--complete with sweeping "els" Too bad that most other builders don't do this...
The builders of the Caracal did it right--there are several PVC pipe runs under the floor for wiring, cables and plumbing--complete with sweeping "els" Too bad that most other builders don't do this...