I have only had one run in with the "Feds" in AK--I had seen the black bears at Anan Creek, and the nice female summer ranger suggested that I go to Pack Creek to see the Grizzlies. She thought that most likely the ranger would let us land if there was no-one else there. Pack Creek is up Seymour Canal, so we went up there a few days later. We scouted the area the night we arrived, and then first thing in the AM, went to the beach. We were asked if we had a "permit"--no--"You need to go to Juneau and get one". Juneau is a fair distance in a 6.5 knot boat, and of course we didn't have the time to make a double trip. We asked if those who were scheduled didn't show up, (it was raining) if we could come ashore for a brief time, and stay near the ranger. "NO". By 6 PM no one had shown up (and we had bee shooed away from taking our dinghy several hundred yards from the creek's entrance to the bay, where we were taking photos with telephoto lenses.) We asked again--noting that it was unlikely that anyone would be coming this late. Response: "They have until 9 PM to get here". I asked if the ranger could radio headquarters and ask for permission "NO".
The next year, we went to Juneau first, entered the lottery (most permits are given by reservation--mostly to guides--and there is a lottery 72 hours before your visiting time to allow 4 people to go ashore.) Marie won the lottery, and took the 4 tickets. One gal had been there for 5 days trying to get a ticket--we asked if we could take her for half the day--I would stay on the boat--and she could go for that half day. Official position--"NO". You cannot switch people on a permit.
We did go back "legally". In a 6.5 knot boat it is a good 3 day trip from Auke Bay, but well worth it. The usual guide services charge from $450 to $700 a person for this trip in a float plane. Some of the small cruise vessels include this (I suspect it is an "add on"). But these local services have an advantage, and book blocks of time at the first of the year.
There is about one Grizley bear per square mile. We saw about 30 bears in the 12 hours we were ashore at Pack Creek. Generally the bears stay on the North side of the creek and the people always on the South side...the Rangers are there, but not always with the shore party. We carried our own bear repellant, and fire arms--with the ranger's permission.
We have the highest respect for anyone who lives in the bush, and tries to eek out a living there. If real laws had been broken--sure the rangers could politely enforce them. But over a boat registration? (Which is more of a state's issue anyway) I'll bet that half the boat in the outback are not registered.