carburetor problem Honda BF 90

Sounds like you are well on the way to a better day Bob. Hope it continues.

I'm not a mechanic so this is what I do, per instructions from my (Yamaha) mechanic.
1. Every tank, every time, Marine (blue) Stabil, and Startron Enzyme Fuel Treatment. Both at the maintenance levels.
2. End of Season. On the last tank fill, double up on the dose of both then add in the full tank of new fuel. (I fill it really way up to the top.)
3. Run the engines for at least a half hour to an hour to thoroughly get the new mix into the system.
4. Park the boat. No draining or adding anything. (Oil changes excepted.)
5. Keep the batteries charged.
6. Come spring, on a fully charged battery, pump the bulbs till firm and ...
7. Start the engines. Go run that first tank through to at least half down.
8. Add new gas with the double mix. Then from there on go back to the maintenance mix on every fill.

Has worked well for my Yami's, with a layover of 8 months one year. Started and run without a problem. Honda may be different. And I have been doing this with 10% E (eeek) gas every year.

:thup :thup

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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They really are not that bad I agree. But, they do have the appearance of nightmare written all over them. Hopefully they behave for a long time.
 
Hardee, are your yamaha's fuel injected or carbs? I think that the heat causes much more rapid detiorration of the fuel, and is more likely to have the carbs gum up.

My 140 Suzuki is injected: I avoid ethanol in the gas. I put Stabil and Starton--always fires back up 4 to 6 months later.

In the case of the Honda, 90 the fuel was shot. I would not run it in a lawn tractor.

Katjt--thanks for the description--hopefully I will not have to do this in the Wild's of Canada…So far the engine seems to be fine after cleaning the other carbs.
 
I hope you got it squared away. I had one motor, that was running rough, and wouldn't throttle up properly. If you'd force it, it would die. I was able to cheat it into the upper RPMS, and it ran great up there, just couldn't get over the throttle hump from the pilot circuit to the main without coaxing. Good to go now.
If you do have to get into it, Bob, I'll PM you my phone number and if you want somebody to look on and offer encouragement, I'll make some time. I was worried about adjustments also, but the only thing I used a screwdriver on, was the bowl screws, and the jets. I blasted everything out, while I had them apart.
The bike forum I'm on, has a lot of sticking float valves(needle and seats) this time of year. Usually if you can get them to stop leaking, and they run, they'll clean up.
 
'The final post on this saga. We have been talking about launching the boat--but it has been too hot (close to 100 degrees--and the reason we usually go North this time of year). This morning we had to get up at 5:30 so a friend could work on our attic fan, when the temperature was less than 120 degrees in the attic! By 8:30 he had replaced the fan motor and we were back in business--great time to launch the boat.

The engine fired right up. came back across the bay at 18 knots, happy as can be, took the boat up to 25 knots, no problem, Idles smooth. So letting the carb cleaner sit in the jets did its job

Also got a chance to try out the Garmin 1040xs and 740S. Both transducers work and hold the bottom well at speed. The Down scan/chirp is great! Radar works--so all projects are done and checked off!

Thanks to those who helped and made suggestions!
 
thataway":3mnpm46a said:
The engine fired right up. came back across the bay at 18 knots, happy as can be, took the boat up to 25 knots, no problem, Idles smooth.
Click to expand...

Sweet! Also, I always enjoy reading follow up after a "mystery" (even better when it is good news).

thataway":3mnpm46a said:
Also got a chance to try out the Garmin 1040xs and 740S. ...The Down scan/chirp is great!
Click to expand...

I'm going to start another thread to ask about this.
 
What "carb cleaner" did you use/do you recommend? Is there a difference between the carb cleaner you would use in an auto, and what should be used in an OB motor?
 
O used "Gum Out" Gum out is 60 to 100% acetone, 5 to 10% propane (propellant), 1-5% Methyl Ethyl Ketone, and 1-5% petroleum distillates. I used the spray can, because I could spray the solvent retrograde into the carburetor drain tubing, and fill the bowl with the cleaner. Yes, this is the same I have used in generators, cars and outboards in the past. I have put Lucas fuel treatment into the new, non ethanol containing, fuel (after pumping out all of the old fuel I could.)
 
Interesting discussion... Two months ago I was ready to launch our CD22 when I noticed gas leaking from the same disk on the top carb. I tried all the tricks mentioned here to free the float. No luck. Since it was spring and no one had any time to look at it, I decided to trade it in on a new 2015 BF90. When I took it to the dealer for check out, they backed the boat and motor into their shop. The mechanic fired up the engine and it caught fire. Fortunately they put out the fire quickly but there went the trade-in value.
 
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