I like cruising along in a boat, and I don't have any interest in going fast. I was thinking that maybe I could get along ok with a 9.9 hp. motor. My boat would spend its life in my neighborhood, between a 40 mile long reservoir, and another huge lake, Flathead lake. and two smaller lakes inside Glacier national park. One lake named Bowman lake has a hp. limit of 9.9 hp.I am concerned that I would not have enough engine to get off the water fast enough if winds got out of hand and the water gets too dangerous. I am also concerned that a 9.9 hp 4 stroke would ware out prematurely,if it were used as the only engine on a 16'cd. Most of the use of my boat would be day use fishing,and occassional camping, mostly pitching a tent on shore type camping.Another concern I have is beaching,beaching on a rocky shoreline would be the norm, naturally I'd be looking for the smoothest rocks to pull a shore on, but my experience has been that you can't always see that great. Is the c-dory bottom tough enough for beaching on the freestone lakes. My last aluminum utility boat got some dents and scrapes,but held up.I'm only a novice boater on protected lakes and I would appreciate your thoughts.
cd 16 angler and 9.9hp motor.
- Thread starter kavy
- Start date
canyon kavy-
I can understand your preference for slow cruising, but there might well be times you'd want to get off a lake fast, such as Flathead Lake, which has a reputation for turning really rough in a hurry due to strong winds that develop without any warning.
Personally, I'd want a at least a 40 and preferably a 50 hp engine to plane the boat along at a reasonable escape speed whether the emergency was weather related (including rain, thunder, and lightening storms), or a medical emergency, or anything else.
I don't know how rough the rocky shores are where you plan on boating, not having been there myself. The C-Dory hull is very strong, but still has a balsa core of small wooden squares to thicken it and make it stiffer. It has a substantial inner and outer layer of fiberglass that with the balsa core make up the hull sandwich. I'm sure it will take quite a bit of abuse by rocks, but it is NOT a 0.25 (1/8th) inch aluminum plate hull, like the larger riverboats. You can, however, carry an old carpet piece with you to place under the bow of the boat once you have reached the shore and use it to protect the boat from continued abuse from grinding on the rocks due to rolling wave action.
Will they let you on the limited hp lake if you have a larger main engine and a 9.9 hp kicker and only operate the small engine?
Hope this helps you get started!
Joe. :thup
I can understand your preference for slow cruising, but there might well be times you'd want to get off a lake fast, such as Flathead Lake, which has a reputation for turning really rough in a hurry due to strong winds that develop without any warning.
Personally, I'd want a at least a 40 and preferably a 50 hp engine to plane the boat along at a reasonable escape speed whether the emergency was weather related (including rain, thunder, and lightening storms), or a medical emergency, or anything else.
I don't know how rough the rocky shores are where you plan on boating, not having been there myself. The C-Dory hull is very strong, but still has a balsa core of small wooden squares to thicken it and make it stiffer. It has a substantial inner and outer layer of fiberglass that with the balsa core make up the hull sandwich. I'm sure it will take quite a bit of abuse by rocks, but it is NOT a 0.25 (1/8th) inch aluminum plate hull, like the larger riverboats. You can, however, carry an old carpet piece with you to place under the bow of the boat once you have reached the shore and use it to protect the boat from continued abuse from grinding on the rocks due to rolling wave action.
Will they let you on the limited hp lake if you have a larger main engine and a 9.9 hp kicker and only operate the small engine?
Hope this helps you get started!
Joe. :thup
Steve Grover
New member
I was out on Lake Tahoe for about 3 hours today fishing in my 16' C-Dory Cruiser. The wind was only 6-10 with occasional gusts. The wind influenced my boat some what and I had to throttle up sometimes when trolling. I have a Yamaha 50. Some times I troll with a 5 horse kicker. I wouldn't even consider running a 16' C-Dory with only a 9.9 as the only engine. You wouldn't be satisfied with the performance. The taller cabin gets push around in wind.
Beaching on rocks isn't a good idea either. I have what they call a Keel Guard on my boat and I still wouldn't consider beaching on rocks of any kind.
You should consider an inflatable or at least a 25-35 horse engine. I'm not sure with camping gear a 25 would plane a Dory and it won't like the rocks.
Beaching on rocks isn't a good idea either. I have what they call a Keel Guard on my boat and I still wouldn't consider beaching on rocks of any kind.
You should consider an inflatable or at least a 25-35 horse engine. I'm not sure with camping gear a 25 would plane a Dory and it won't like the rocks.
:beer The C-Dory Bottom will be the least of your problems!!Thanks for the replys,that is a good idea about slipping the piece of carpet under the boat at shore. All the comments were good common sence. I use a canoe with an electric motor up on Bowman lake, the other lakes and reservoir allow bigger motors. Having the power to move quickly on the water or to buck the wind is a safety issue.Tsturm I've seen a few of those things, had a close encounter one time,nothing between me and the critter that leaves those tracks but a screen door. Thanks again.
I certainly agree that 9.9 hp on a CD 16 would be marginal at best in some circumstances because of the windage. Even with 12 foot Aluminum boat or RIB's I like to have 15 hp, because of the storms with winds and waves.
We used a 12 foot RIB for 3 years in BC and Alaska, beaching it on rocks at least three times a day to let the dogs ashore and hike. After the first year, we put an extra layer of glass on the areas which wore--and beded this glass in Epoxy, with Aluminum flakes in it. If there were dings or areas of wear, we would add more glass at the end of each year. The C Dory is better built that that RIB. (but also heavier). Another trick, is to anchor the boat off the beach. We used a 15 foot piece of chain, with a pulley (block) on the end of it. We had a 200 foot "endless line--that ran thru the block and then back to the boat. We would drop the anchor 100 feet off the beach, and then run the boat to the beach. After dropping the gear and ourselves off the beach, we would pull the boat out 100 feet, and moor it there. We had a screw type of anchor to secure the beach end of the line to. It was not only for protection of the bottom, but because of rapid tidal changes (but be sure you can reach the line at high tide, if you anchor at low tide!). I realize no tides in these lakes--but the same principle will work to keep the boat off the beach--but anchoring can be difficult in rocks...
We used a 12 foot RIB for 3 years in BC and Alaska, beaching it on rocks at least three times a day to let the dogs ashore and hike. After the first year, we put an extra layer of glass on the areas which wore--and beded this glass in Epoxy, with Aluminum flakes in it. If there were dings or areas of wear, we would add more glass at the end of each year. The C Dory is better built that that RIB. (but also heavier). Another trick, is to anchor the boat off the beach. We used a 15 foot piece of chain, with a pulley (block) on the end of it. We had a 200 foot "endless line--that ran thru the block and then back to the boat. We would drop the anchor 100 feet off the beach, and then run the boat to the beach. After dropping the gear and ourselves off the beach, we would pull the boat out 100 feet, and moor it there. We had a screw type of anchor to secure the beach end of the line to. It was not only for protection of the bottom, but because of rapid tidal changes (but be sure you can reach the line at high tide, if you anchor at low tide!). I realize no tides in these lakes--but the same principle will work to keep the boat off the beach--but anchoring can be difficult in rocks...
marvin4239
New member
thataway said:
Pat Anderson
New member
thataway":235s4lab said:
I hate being so damn dense! Joe immediately visualized this setup and can't wait to try it...I am still trying to figure out what goes where. Can somebody diagram this one for me please? Chain and block on boat or on beach? How does the 200' "endless line" get rigged - and what is the "beach end of the line" on endless line, or what does "endless line" mean? How does this let you pull the boat back out to the anchor spot from the shore? I sort of have the picture that the boat is anchored out, then run into shore, people stay on shore and pull the boat back out to the anchor spot, then pull it back in when they want back on board - but I have not a clue how that is accomplished. Sad, huh...
Pat - here is a simple system that accomplishes the same thing. I have one for my boat and it does work as advertised. I got it at the Seattle Boat Show two years ago.
http://www.anchorbuddy.com/
________
Dave
http://www.anchorbuddy.com/
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Dave
marvin4239
New member
Dave from what I see about the anchor buddy it only has 30 feet of stretch? With Bob's trick you have 100'. Anchor Buddy looks great if all you need is 30 ft.
Pat I read and reread Bob's post and had to draw several pictures to get it in my mind. You pass the two hundred foot of line through the block which is attached to 15' of chain then the anchor. You splice the two ends of the 100' line together. Drop the anchor over 100' from shore and pay the line out until you reach shore. Tie the line off to the boat and pull the boat back out with the line. Anchor the loop of line off on shore. Is that right Bob?
Pat I read and reread Bob's post and had to draw several pictures to get it in my mind. You pass the two hundred foot of line through the block which is attached to 15' of chain then the anchor. You splice the two ends of the 100' line together. Drop the anchor over 100' from shore and pay the line out until you reach shore. Tie the line off to the boat and pull the boat back out with the line. Anchor the loop of line off on shore. Is that right Bob?
Hi Kavy,
I have the same philoshophy. Check my question in technical subjects; "Engine size". My main concern is excess vibration with a 4 stroke 40 HP Honda. From the response (1 so far) the vibration / noise /engine life and irritation is not an issue. I want reserve power when needed but for the most part, slow speed cruising is my type. Until I get more feedback, the 40 HP 4 stroke is probably the way to go. (In my area however, Mercury dealers abound, not so with Hondas or Yamahas so I am also thinking about product knowledge and servicing - that may ultimately impact my final choice.
Marc
I have the same philoshophy. Check my question in technical subjects; "Engine size". My main concern is excess vibration with a 4 stroke 40 HP Honda. From the response (1 so far) the vibration / noise /engine life and irritation is not an issue. I want reserve power when needed but for the most part, slow speed cruising is my type. Until I get more feedback, the 40 HP 4 stroke is probably the way to go. (In my area however, Mercury dealers abound, not so with Hondas or Yamahas so I am also thinking about product knowledge and servicing - that may ultimately impact my final choice.
Marc
The right boat for the mission? I can assure you there are boats on Flathead that are bigger than the 16 that have only a 9.9 or smaller motor... trailerable sailboats. And they are not going to be going faster than hull speed. So, could a 9.9 move a CD-16 around? Sure. Would it be the best usage of the boat? I guess that's subjective. But if you were sure you never wanted to go faster than 5 or 6 knots, well, it would work. But in my mind, it would be like getting a Miata and putting a moped motor in it - it might slowly move it, but where's the fun? :wink:
As for putting the boat up on rocks... that made my butt pucker just thinking about it with a neat little C-Dory. Again, you could do it... you'd have to do some regular "fixin' up"... but it sure isn't what that hull was designed for.
There are lots of thing you can do with a boat... but that doesn't mean you should. 8) Cigarette-type boats come to mind.
Kavy, you've gotten some good advice here. I have to compliment your good taste in considering a C-Dory, but it sounds like there might be better (or lesser) boats that would do what you want. Now, if you do get a C-Dory, you might find that your "mission" will change, and you'd want to go faster on occasion and not intentionally crunch that fiberglass up on the rocks.
Welcome aboard and good luck finding the boat that's right for you.
Jim B.
As for putting the boat up on rocks... that made my butt pucker just thinking about it with a neat little C-Dory. Again, you could do it... you'd have to do some regular "fixin' up"... but it sure isn't what that hull was designed for.
There are lots of thing you can do with a boat... but that doesn't mean you should. 8) Cigarette-type boats come to mind.
Kavy, you've gotten some good advice here. I have to compliment your good taste in considering a C-Dory, but it sounds like there might be better (or lesser) boats that would do what you want. Now, if you do get a C-Dory, you might find that your "mission" will change, and you'd want to go faster on occasion and not intentionally crunch that fiberglass up on the rocks.
Welcome aboard and good luck finding the boat that's right for you.
Jim B.
Sorry, I was traveling when the answer to my post about the anchoring off the beach. Yes, one end of the chain is attatched to the anchor, the other end to the block. The line is passed thru the block. One end is tied to the bow eye (actually a thimble is spliced to the bow eye). The other end is attatched to the transom. The boat is pulled back out toward the anchor, enough that it will still be floating when the tide goes out--and loop of the line kept at the beach (and I I have a second line to the beach, just in case) is tied to a tree, rock or a small anchor, so that it is secured, and the boat cannot move in or out.