mcatan2468
New member
Has anyone ever changed accent color of a c-dory? How do you do that? If so, is the accent color part of gel coat ? I am looking at a old red 22 C-Dory that I want to restore inside and out .
Changing accent color of c-dory
- Thread starter mcatan2468
- Start date
I don't know of anyone that has ever totally changed the color, but it could be done.
Keep in mind that the Zolatone interior splatter type paint designed to hide interior faults and irregularities has a color base and highlight part that would have to be changed along with seat cushions, any floor coloring, like carpets, etc.
I'd totally strip the boat and sand it. The interior and cockpit might best be sand blasted. A good tough, durable primer would be a must to hide the old paint residue.
For paint, use a two part polyurethane if you can. It's glossy and flows out to give a great looking paint job, as well as being elastic and chip resistant.
Spraying such a paint is very dangerous because of the fumes, and a full respirator air supply is required.
Some polyurethanes can be rolled on successfully with skill. It's done all the time on older sailboats and yachts by do-it-yourselfers with skill and practice.
Since you're a retired dentist, I'm betting you have the time, mind set, skills , and patience to do all this successfully.
Since the old accent color is/was red, you might consider doing a red/white/blue tri-color paint scheme.
Good Luck!
Joe. :teeth :thup
Keep in mind that the Zolatone interior splatter type paint designed to hide interior faults and irregularities has a color base and highlight part that would have to be changed along with seat cushions, any floor coloring, like carpets, etc.
I'd totally strip the boat and sand it. The interior and cockpit might best be sand blasted. A good tough, durable primer would be a must to hide the old paint residue.
For paint, use a two part polyurethane if you can. It's glossy and flows out to give a great looking paint job, as well as being elastic and chip resistant.
Spraying such a paint is very dangerous because of the fumes, and a full respirator air supply is required.
Some polyurethanes can be rolled on successfully with skill. It's done all the time on older sailboats and yachts by do-it-yourselfers with skill and practice.
Since you're a retired dentist, I'm betting you have the time, mind set, skills , and patience to do all this successfully.
Since the old accent color is/was red, you might consider doing a red/white/blue tri-color paint scheme.
Good Luck!
Joe. :teeth :thup
I remember Mike on Papillion in Florida painted his boat from a light blue to a darker blue on his 22' Angler about 10 years ago. I recall it turned out well. You can see the change in his Papillion album.
Also Patrick "Byrdman" repainted the stripes on his 18' C-Dory in the late 2000's.
Also Patrick "Byrdman" repainted the stripes on his 18' C-Dory in the late 2000's.
Yes, the sheer stripe, brow stripe, and bottom are originally gelcoat, colored that way as the boat was built. But you can certainly change it. Gelcoated boats are painted all the time for one reason or another. Gelcoat is a great material, but so is two-part LPU, and that's often used as original color on boats these days -- it's that good. Shine and gloss can last 20+ years with care (and care mostly means keeping out of harsh sun as much as possible; but it'd still look much better than the equivalent gelcoat given the same light level of care (vs. laborious compounding and polishing like you might be giving gelcoat after the same time/conditions elapsed). Basically, the two-part LPU just looks good without too much care, and will last a long time -- even longer if you don't keep it in high UV areas all the time uncovered.
A caveat is that two-part paint is not good at or below the waterline - gelcoat is still better there (or bottom paint). Also once damaged, the two-part paint is a little tricker to repair, whereas gelcoat can be filled in, and one-part paint can be added to.
You can do it yourself, or have it done. Two part paints are serious business when being sprayed, so you need not only a respirator, but a supplied air type. Rolling/tipping/brushing is not quite as bad, but still something to take good precautions with.
One part paints work too, but the shine won't last nearly as long and they are not as hard/durable (but they are easily touch-uppable). If I wanted a good-as-new look, I'd have the color areas sprayed professionally with two-part, myself. To me, one part paint looks better on something like a wooden boat, where you don't expect it to look like "glass." But that's just me. I have seen some amazing one-part paint jobs, but even so they won't last as long or be as hard/durable as gelcoat or two-part paint.
I did see where someone with a black-trimmed 22 had it professionally sprayed and changed to maroon (but bottom paint on that section below the waterline). If I didn't like the trim color on mine, and/or when it wears out beyond the point of compounding/polishing, I wouldn't hesitate to have it re-done in two-part LPU type paint (Awlgrip, Sterling, etc.) It will cost some money, but then the material and labor are both expensive (some places might let you prep it yourself).
The red is a great color, but is prone to fading with a lot of UV.
It could be "fun" to have a unique color that no other C-Dory has :thup
A caveat is that two-part paint is not good at or below the waterline - gelcoat is still better there (or bottom paint). Also once damaged, the two-part paint is a little tricker to repair, whereas gelcoat can be filled in, and one-part paint can be added to.
You can do it yourself, or have it done. Two part paints are serious business when being sprayed, so you need not only a respirator, but a supplied air type. Rolling/tipping/brushing is not quite as bad, but still something to take good precautions with.
One part paints work too, but the shine won't last nearly as long and they are not as hard/durable (but they are easily touch-uppable). If I wanted a good-as-new look, I'd have the color areas sprayed professionally with two-part, myself. To me, one part paint looks better on something like a wooden boat, where you don't expect it to look like "glass." But that's just me. I have seen some amazing one-part paint jobs, but even so they won't last as long or be as hard/durable as gelcoat or two-part paint.
I did see where someone with a black-trimmed 22 had it professionally sprayed and changed to maroon (but bottom paint on that section below the waterline). If I didn't like the trim color on mine, and/or when it wears out beyond the point of compounding/polishing, I wouldn't hesitate to have it re-done in two-part LPU type paint (Awlgrip, Sterling, etc.) It will cost some money, but then the material and labor are both expensive (some places might let you prep it yourself).
The red is a great color, but is prone to fading with a lot of UV.
It could be "fun" to have a unique color that no other C-Dory has :thup
Marco Flamingo
Active member
I was wondering if under my bottom paint there was gel coat that matched the sheer stripe. I've now got a few scratches (I call them oyster bites) that show a darker material underneath. I thought maybe the first layer of bottom paint was darker. I must be seeing the gel coat in places.
Changing the color of a C Dory would be like changing the color of a car. It could be done, but changing color just to change color would be a labor of love that wouldn't make economic sense.
Mark
Changing the color of a C Dory would be like changing the color of a car. It could be done, but changing color just to change color would be a labor of love that wouldn't make economic sense.
Mark
Marco Flamingo
Active member
I should add that I did change the color of my boat on the inside. After spraying with insulating paint, I went over the interior with a cream colored Rustoleum enamel. It is much easier to keep clean than the original finish, which was more of a egg shell and tended to catch smudges and dirt. The new finish stays cleaner, and a big smudge or scratch can just be shot with the spray can.
Pictures are in my Modifications photo album.
Mark
Pictures are in my Modifications photo album.
Mark
All of the C Dorys are sprayed with the darker accent color, as part of the way to "hide" the translucency of fiberglass laminate.
A very careful masking job is gong to be key--just go slightly beyond the edge of the current accent color. The top accent, often has a vinyl tape next to it--that needs to be removed, and cleaned well.
The area needs to be "de-waxed" first. Any evidence of silicones can ruin a paint job. Every defect has to be sanded and faired. I am with those who feel that the two part LP paints give the best results. Generally 10 to 11 years is what one can expect for durability in the sun.
For best results, a two part epoxy primer is applied first. Then sanded, any defects filled etc. Then several layers of the color coat--and finally a spay application of a clear coat for the maximum longevity.
You can apply the two part LP with just a good respirator--air supply is not necessary in the open, for the small amount to be done here--especially if tip and roll. BUT, although there are some professionals--usually two working together--who can do tip and roll, as good as a spray--there are not many. Even the spray needs to be someone who is skilled. I have painted an entire 30 foot boat, tip and roll, over a dark red which had faded. I have also sprayed several masts, and smaller areas,--equal, or slightly larger than the trim on a C Dory. The gal who has done Spray 2 part LP for me on boats as big as 46 feet, works with a partner, who spots any irregularity for her, and handles the hoses etc--but she does an absolutely perfect job. The biggest cost in any of these endeavors is the prep work. There are some who have sprayed some of the automotive finishes, and had good results.
A very careful masking job is gong to be key--just go slightly beyond the edge of the current accent color. The top accent, often has a vinyl tape next to it--that needs to be removed, and cleaned well.
The area needs to be "de-waxed" first. Any evidence of silicones can ruin a paint job. Every defect has to be sanded and faired. I am with those who feel that the two part LP paints give the best results. Generally 10 to 11 years is what one can expect for durability in the sun.
For best results, a two part epoxy primer is applied first. Then sanded, any defects filled etc. Then several layers of the color coat--and finally a spay application of a clear coat for the maximum longevity.
You can apply the two part LP with just a good respirator--air supply is not necessary in the open, for the small amount to be done here--especially if tip and roll. BUT, although there are some professionals--usually two working together--who can do tip and roll, as good as a spray--there are not many. Even the spray needs to be someone who is skilled. I have painted an entire 30 foot boat, tip and roll, over a dark red which had faded. I have also sprayed several masts, and smaller areas,--equal, or slightly larger than the trim on a C Dory. The gal who has done Spray 2 part LP for me on boats as big as 46 feet, works with a partner, who spots any irregularity for her, and handles the hoses etc--but she does an absolutely perfect job. The biggest cost in any of these endeavors is the prep work. There are some who have sprayed some of the automotive finishes, and had good results.
Jack in Alaska
New member
My friend and neighbor painted his 26' ProAngler called the MARYRED from dark blue to bright red about 12 yrs ago. It still looks bright and shiny today and the boat is outside all the time.
There is a picture of it in my photo album.
There is a picture of it in my photo album.
Wood Zeppelin
New member
I am also interested in this topic. To change trim color in the gel coat, could the accent colored areas be sanded and then new gel-coat of a different color applied? so no paint, just redoing the gel coat?
Wood Zeppelin":32bw0d7c said:
You could sand and prep the area of the old trim--the color accent strip. Spaying gel coat to get a nice gloss would probably be more expensive than painting by a significant difference---if you could find someone to do it where you live. It is not really a DIY job, unless you are skilled. Painting on gel coat means several coats, and sanding to get it fair. Not easy to do.
The reason that gel coat on a new boat comes out so nicely, is that it is sprayed into a highly polished and waxed mold, with no imperfections. When cured, the gel coat takes on the characteristics of the mold surface.
In any of these preps you have to get all waxes and silicones off the old surface.
For the small boat like that, I would consider using one of the single part paints, like Top Lac or Brightside. If you keep the boat covered, it should last a long time.
Wood Zeppelin
New member
Great Advice, thanks!