Changing my own oil; need some backup!

T

timflan

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C Dory Year
2005
C Dory Model
22 Cruiser
Vessel Name
Two Lucky Fish +1
OK, I'm going to change the oil in my 2005 Johnson (Suzuki-made) 90-HP 4-stroke EFI engine. I'm going to try to figure this out on my own, but if I get stuck, it would be nice to know that some kind C-Brat "had my back".

Anybody in the greater Seattle area willing to let me call if I get confused?

To be more precise, here's what I intend to do:
1. Change engine oil
2. Replace oil filter
3. Change gear oil
4. Grease the swivel bracket, prop shaft, and throttle/shift linkage
5. Check the power trim/tilt fluid level

I've watched this done, and I've got the service manual. It all looks pretty straightforward.

Anybody wanna be my guru on this one? Thanks!
 
Might be a good time to inspect or replace the fuel filter. Make sure the O rings for the gearcase plugs are in good shape, they keep the water out of the gear oil. Oh, yeah, save the beer till afterwards...
 
timflan":14875b83 said:
...
To be more precise, here's what I intend to do:
1. Change engine oil
2. Replace oil filter
3. Change gear oil
4. Grease the swivel bracket, prop shaft, and throttle/shift linkage
5. Check the power trim/tilt fluid level

I've watched this done, and I've got the service manual. It all looks pretty straightforward.

Anybody wanna be my guru on this one? Thanks!
Click to expand...

Someone with the same engines could offer the best help. Make sure you have everything you need before you start. It's annoying to get part-way through then realize you need a tool or something else. This includes the gaskets for the oil plug and gear oil plugs. I assume you already have the correct oil, gear oil, oil filter, etc.

The first thing I recommend is laying down a tarp so if you spill some oil you can wipe it up. You will need a lot of rags/paper towels for keeping the engine, ground, and hands clean as you go.

I found a long screwdriver and a footlong crescent wrench works well on the gear oil plugs. You can push the screwdriver flat against the bolt while turning the wrench to loosen it. It's important to press the screwdriver flat because it is easy to begin to strip the head. (My screwdriver has a square shaft so I can put a wrench over it to turn, a typical round shaft will obviously not work).

The warmer the oil the faster it will run out. I forget where you are located but if it's cold it will take quite a while. Make sure your oil catch pan is clean so you can properly asses the condition of the gear oil. If it's yellow or really milky it indicates water intrusion (and necessary repairs). Once done, replace the gaskets, refill with the proper amount and do the necessary fluid level checks as specified in your owners manual.

For the engine oil, run your engine for about 3 minutes to warm it up a bit. You don't want it hot but warm. Then of course drain the oil first, and then remove the oil filter. Take your finger and spread a little oil onto the rubber seal of the replacement oil filter before you put it on. This will make it easier to remove at the end of the season. Replace the gasket on the plug, reinsert, and add the necessary oil. Run the engines a few minutes to circulate the oil then check the level.

One important tip - my mantra with boats is "snug but not reefed" when it comes to tightening bolts and screws. If you want to be precise get a torque wrench but do not crank right down on them, you can shear the bolts or strip them.
 
Consider a new "washer" under both the gear drain and top plugs, as well as the engine drain. these are compression washers, and I replace them each time I change fluids. Cheap insurance.

Also take the prop off the shaft, check seals and check for line. Regrease the shaft and replace the prop with a new cotter pin.
 
Tim, If I can do this, not a problem :wink: It really is not too difficult if your manual gives you good information. The Suzuki manual is ok. One thing that I found that you may need is a strap wrench to remove the oil filter. It works real slick. Also, the first time I changed the oil and put in the amount that the manual said was the "capacity", it was over filled. I asked Rick, the rigger at C-Dory, and he told me that he never puts in the amount the manual says, at least all at once. He said that very often it will be full with less, even after running and filling the new filter. I put in 5 1/2 qts of the 6, and then check it.

The gear oil is so much fun. At least you can't over fill. If you plan on doing your maintainance, I would buy a pump, and use the large containers of gear oil. The small tubes are hard to empty, especially after you get gear oil on you hands and everything gets slippery.


You should have extra gaskets for the engine oil plug in your Johnson tool kit. I think mine came with about 10 of them. As mentioned before, make sure you change them each time you change your oil, even if they look good, as they probably will.

Robbi


oil_change.sized.jpg
 
Sucking out the oil, is far easier and cleaner than draining, but it might not be an option for every outboard. Unlike draining, it's also possible with the boat in the water...although most of us probably do our maintenance with the boat on the trailer.

I picked up an Astro 7340 Fluid Extractor (pictured below), which works like a dream. It has a manual pump, but it also has a fitting for an air compressor hose.

With warm oil and the compressor hooked up, it will suck a crankcase dry in a couple minutes, without spilling a drop. I've not used the manual pump yet, but I'm guessing it would be a bit slower. Cleanup is equally easy - pop the top, and pour it into a recycle receptacle.

If using an extraction pump (on any engine), it's probably wise to verify it's getting all the oil the first time used. Simply pull the drain plug afterwards. A few drips is not really of concern, but use your best judgment. I don't see a drop out of any of my engines - the extraction tube easily hits the lowest part of the pan, when inserted through the dipstick tube.

extractor_03.sized.jpg
 
tim call me I'm open on saturday afternoon and sunday.
 
Tim - I did it quite a few times on that engine, let me know if you run into anything.
Mac
 
Agree with Da Nag on the vacuum pump for oil changes, especially on Hondas. Don't know about Suzukis but I could never change the Honda oil without making a big mess until I got one of those dipstick extractors. Mine leaves nothing that will drain out thru the oil plug-plus you don't have to replace that washer. Filling the gearcase is another matter. I have never found a clean neat way to do that.
 
Golly, thanks, folks! I am filled with confidence. And with the knowledge that I can call on one of you if I get stuck.

I think I'm all set up with parts and tools, now. I already had an oil filter, filter wrench, and the oil. John, the parts guru at Jacobsen's Marine in Ballard, helped me find the gearcase lube kit, which has a pump that screws right onto the bottle; probably a little rinky-dink if you're doing this for a living, but looks about right for me. I have two gear-lube gaskets, but NOT the oil plug gaskets, so I'll need to see if that's one of those mysterious items Mac included with the boat...it probably is. I went ahead and got the official Evinrude/Johnson Triple Guard Grease Gun Kit...I don't possess a grease gun of any kind, and the alternative (a squeeze tube with an adapter) looked too rinky-dink, even for me.

Now I'm just waiting for a day without rain. Tomorrow is booked anyway. Kiera and I will be running our RC tug boat at the Pacific Marine Expo.

Thanks again, everyone!
 
I suspect your Johnson 90 is pretty much identical to my Suzuki 90. I find it stupid you must remove the lower unit cover to get to the oil filter but it's no nig deal I think it takes a 7MM socket. The oil drain gasket is metal and while I have extras purchased at the dealer I haven't found it necessary to change in four oil changes. As far as a grease gun I'd get a full size one rather than the rinky dink little ones they sell that come with four small tubes of grease I've got both and the little one is a pain in the butt. You can use it on your trailer bearings also. Of course get a good quality marine grease. I put a light coating of Corrosion Block on my engine and steering rod mechanism at each oil change.
 
Tim,

You, (and Robbi :oops: :mrgreen: ) are an encouragement to me. I have not done my own oil and lowercase fluid changes yet, but have decided it is going to be done. Have been taking it to the boat mechanics, but I figure I can figure a way, and find the time to do my own here sometime. We had decided to run the boat regularly through the winter, but are running into some family complications with that.

Kiera and I will be running our RC tug boat at the Pacific Marine Expo.
Click to expand...
Sounds like fun. How about some pictures from there?

Harvey
SleepyC
 
Hi Tim,

I have the same motor. One of the things I do is to use some tape to make a little v-shaped piece I tape below the drain plug and filter so the oil does not run down the motor side. it directs the oil out from the motor just enough.

I have also replaced the impeller and it was not too hard to do. You have plenty of good advice here so I am sure it will go well.

Steve
 
Steve, Thanks, the tape is a great idea. :thup Robbi
 
on the honda oil drain I just cut the bottom off a small soda bottle and place that around the drain. keeps the oil from running down the side of the case. So tim how did it go?
 
It's goin', it's goin'. Oil is changed...just gotta run the engine and top off.

Gear oil is draining...seems like it just keeps on coming out. It's sort of a candy-apple green color, clear, without any milkiness. The new fluid is a deeper shade of green. I'm hoping that's OK.

While it drains, I decided to load up my mini grease-gun. How DO you get the cardboard cylinder of grease into the grease gun's cylinder? Tom, I'm picking up the phone now.
 
timflan":zfv199f6 said:
How DO you get the cardboard cylinder of grease into the grease gun's cylinder? Tom, I'm picking up the phone now.
Click to expand...

Tim the top of the small grease gun screws off and the grease cartrage has a metal ring on one end. You put the other end in the grease gun. I think there is a foil cover over the grease in one in you have to puncture and the other end has a cap that has to be removed.
 
Tim, if you are using a grease gun that has been previously used, be sure to remove the old cartridge before you attempt to insert the new one.
 
Oil done, engine run, oil level fine, no leaks at oil filter.

Gear oil changed...took forever to drain, but now it's all pumped up. The rinky-dink "dispenser"-style pump works fine, but it takes a little while to pump through the entire liter of oil. Needed a bit more than than, just as the manual said I would.

Successfully greased one zerk fitting. The gun would NOT disengage from it. I pulled at it, yanked at it, moved it around a little and yanked some more. I tried prying gently, but just was not comfortable that that much force should be necessary. So I moved the grease gun from side to side, a little bit at a time, to see if I could get it off by pulling at an angle. Just a little at a time, you know, very gently. After a few tries, it felt like it was coming loose.

It came loose, alright! I've broken off the tip of the zerk fitting, which I still cannot remove from the grease gun, by the way. So I wonder how you remove the REST of the zerk fitting from the engine component, with nothing to grab onto. There's just a tiny little spring sticking out of it. Any wisdom? Hopefully I don't have to spend every penny I save changing my own oil fixing this.
 
timflan":3sc08x8d said:
So I wonder how you remove the REST of the zerk fitting from the engine component, with nothing to grab onto. There's just a tiny little spring sticking out of it. Any wisdom?
Click to expand...

Tim, there should be what appears to be a "nut shaped" area on the zerk portion that remains in place. Just put the proper sized wrench on it and remove the remainder of the zerk. (Remember......"righty tighty, lefty loosey" when turning it). After removal take that and the the zerk portion that broke off to a hardware store so they can sell you the proper replacement. You should also ask the salesman to show you zerks that have an angle on them as there may be some zerks that you will want to replace so that it is easier to attach your grease gun to it. (Personally, I don't care for those little grease guns but prefer the larger ones with a flex hose on the end.....makes it easier to access tight locations).

I know that years ago, Sea Wolf posted pictures of the angled zerks for the benefit of someone else. Perhaps those pix are in his album or maybe he can repost the pix.

Keep up the good work, I'm sure that there are more than a few people here that share your pain!
 
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