Coleman Air Mach AC Too Heavy

Eleventh Hour

New member
Forgive me if I missed this discussion but I was unable to locate the answer. Last year I purchased a new Coleman AirMach AC and installed it to the cabin top. I purchased it from the dealer and I have not read that it would require extra support. IT DOES.

Now I am trying to lean on your experience of how I can prevent the thing from bouncing whenever i hit an unexpected wave. I am a pretty fair carpenter and I have also played with the idea of making SS rail supports above OR below. TIG welding some supports would be pretty easy or me, but I can't wrap my head on the best engineering.

HELP!
 
We have a CC23 Venture I put on the max AC 9200 and it doesn’t need any extra support The roof of the CC23 is 7/8 of an inch and I’m over230 lb and the roof supports me no problem. On the cd22 it appears they are not as thick as the ventures You could put some more fiberglass maybe another 1/2 inch or so or take some 1by4 and fiberglass it to the roof Talk to Dr Bob he reinforced his roof on his cd25 that way Anyway once installed it is wonderful make sure you put the heat strip in it helps in colder mornings JimW
 
My opinion is that it needs support. Even the cored roofs, do. What happens, is that the air conditioner base and the plate which goes on the under side of the cabin are steel. They are made to go on the top of RV's which are almost flat.

Here is what I did for the Tom Cat. I described it in a post (2007) and put photos in the album:

The cabin top was bulit up to be flat with 2" wide strips of fiberglass cloth and fairing compound.

Thataway_airconditioner_hatch017.sized.jpg

The mahogany inside boards were step cut with a router to conform to the curve of the underside of the cabin top:


Thataway_airconditioner_hatch007.jpg


The glue up with epoxy:

Thataway_airconditioner_hatch014.sized.jpg

to look like this:
Thataway_airconditioner_hatch018_001.sized.jpg

Final result:

Thataway_airconditioner_hatch021.sized.jpg

The last frame shows the core sealed and ready for the air conditioner to be bolted on.

Some boats only have the about 1/4" of glass on the center of the roof, others have the cored laminate. I have had a 25 with both the cored and the 1/4" so it is not by model.

When done like I have illustrated it should solve the problem. I know that many have just cut the 14" hoe and set it on there...(My wife wants me to do that now--but we have a rack on the inside we would give up--so we hoist the window AC unit up each time we need it. )

It is a bit of work--If the boat's center top is very weak I would take the stepped boards all of the way across the inside of the cabin upper top. Just a few more router cuts and some sanding...Epoxy it all in place.
 
Thank You for the ideas. Your boat is cured and would offer considerable more rigidity. My C22 is 1/4" of straight glass and I am going to have to run some sort of leverage port-to-starboard. The glass is just too thin and the whole roof bounces. I dont think the 2" wide strips will help in my case. Too bad they didnt reinforce the roofs on the c22...but different application I guess.
thataway":3dl5d1fi said:
My opinion is that it needs support. Even the cored roofs, do. What happens, is that the air conditioner base and the plate which goes on the under side of the cabin are steel. They are made to go on the top of RV's which are almost flat.

Here is what I did for the Tom Cat. I described it in a post (2007) and put photos in the album:

The cabin top was bulit up to be flat with 2" wide strips of fiberglass cloth and fairing compound.

Thataway_airconditioner_hatch017.sized.jpg

The mahogany inside boards were step cut with a router to conform to the curve of the underside of the cabin top:


Thataway_airconditioner_hatch007.jpg


The glue up with epoxy:

Thataway_airconditioner_hatch014.sized.jpg

to look like this:
Thataway_airconditioner_hatch018_001.sized.jpg

Final result:

Thataway_airconditioner_hatch021.sized.jpg

The last frame shows the core sealed and ready for the air conditioner to be bolted on.

Some boats only have the about 1/4" of glass on the center of the roof, others have the cored laminate. I have had a 25 with both the cored and the 1/4" so it is not by model.

When done like I have illustrated it should solve the problem. I know that many have just cut the 14" hoe and set it on there...(My wife wants me to do that now--but we have a rack on the inside we would give up--so we hoist the window AC unit up each time we need it. )

It is a bit of work--If the boat's center top is very weak I would take the stepped boards all of the way across the inside of the cabin upper top. Just a few more router cuts and some sanding...Epoxy it all in place.
 
hank You for the ideas. Your boat is cured and would offer considerable more rigidity. My C22 is 1/4" of straight glass and I am going to have to run some sort of leverage port-to-starboard. The glass is just too thin and the whole roof bounces. I dont think the 2" wide strips will help in my case. Too bad they didnt reinforce the roofs on the c22...but different application I guess.

I think you meant "cored". But I believe you missed the point. That was that if you take the inside mahogany (or any wood) from one side of the top to the other, and maybe you may have to make the fore and aft boards longer also-- That is what stiffens the top--The glasswork strips on too are only to make a level and fair surface. The wood underneath gives the stiffness to your 1/4" thick top. That should cure your problem. The clamping from inside the 14" hole will give enough leverage to hold longer boards in place, and you use a thickened (cabosil) with epoxy to get the inside adhesion. A little sanding and roughing up will help the adhesion to the underside of the roof.

My last sentence in my first post was:

If the boat's center top is very weak I would take the stepped boards all of the way across the inside of the cabin upper top. Just a few more router cuts and some sanding...Epoxy it all in place.
 
jennykatz":2wgomt2d said:
Can photos be added with a IPad trying to add photos of my AC install or do I need to do it with a PC JimW

have always taken cell phone or I pad photos and air dropped them to my computer for installation in the photo album.
 
I have Crome but still no cigar (pictures ) with iPad tried air drop also no cigar .i guess no photos from me on this iPad I used to be able to put pictures in album but with iPad it’s way above my pay grade JimW

I think having a PC and iPhone and iPad that don’t play well together Where’s my Grandson when I need him
 
Yes, I did mean 'cored' cabin top. Darn autocorrect.
OPTION 1: Epoxy wood beams. I am skeptical if a beam of 1x2 hardwood running port/starboard will be sufficient to deflect the axial forces encountered by a strong wave. It states it is only 91lbs...but it feels heavier? This is where the cored roof has the advantage. It would be the more attractive option and I could tie into the existing wood that runs fore/aft.
OPTION 2: is to use (2) beams that run before and after the unit, made with 1" square stainless tubing. I was thinking of terminating them into a piece of flat stock which would utilize the existing hole from the wood "runner." See my crude sketchup. This option would probably be the fastest for me to fabricate, minimal bends and 10min of TIG.

I have to believe that someone else has solved this problem on a non-cored 22?
49831929131_bbecd5aa69_w.jpg
[/url]bar by adamhagan, on Flickr[/img]
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[/url]20200428_182642 by adamhagan, on Flickr[/img]
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[/url]20200428_182624 by adamhagan, on Flickr[/img]
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[/url]20200428_201923 by adamhagan, on Flickr[/img]
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[/url]20200428_182716 by adamhagan, on Flickr[/img]
 
I am sure there is a better way, but here is what I do. You need a hosting site, or someplace your photos are already posted online. I could not get my google photos to work to I used Flickr. Here are my steps and if it doesn't work, you can always email them to me at hagandds@gmail.com, I would love any info on this topic.

STEP 1: Create a flickr account and in the upper right hand corner click the upload button. This will bring you to a screen where you can drag&drop the photo. Click upload...voila it's "hosted"
STEP 2: Click on the image in your account, click the share arrow (lower right, see red circle).
STEP 3: Select small size...or whatever you desire, then copy the link.
STEP 4: in the forum click the image button once, then ctrl +V or paste.
Hope it helps.
jennykatz":3oq01obp said:
I have Crome but still no cigar (pictures ) with iPad tried air drop also no cigar .i guess no photos from me on this iPad I used to be able to put pictures in album but with iPad it’s way above my pay grade JimW

I think having a PC and iPhone and iPad that don’t play well together Where’s my Grandson when I need him
49831449878_20eb33d3c4_w.jpg
[/url]FLICKR HOSTING by adamhagan, on Flickr[/img]
 
I am sure there is a better way, but here is what I do. You need a hosting site, or someplace your photos are already posted online. I could not get my google photos to work to I used Flickr. Here are my steps and if it doesn't work, you can always email them to me at hagandds@gmail.com, I would love any info on this topic.

STEP 1: Create a flickr account and in the upper right hand corner click the upload button. This will bring you to a screen where you can drag&drop the photo. Click upload...voila it's "hosted"
STEP 2: Click on the image in your account, click the share arrow (lower right, see red circle).
STEP 3: Select small size...or whatever you desire, then copy the link.
STEP 4: in the forum click the image button once, then ctrl +V or paste.
Hope it helps.
jennykatz":pysygyk0 said:
I have Crome but still no cigar (pictures ) with iPad tried air drop also no cigar .i guess no photos from me on this iPad I used to be able to put pictures in album but with iPad it’s way above my pay grade JimW

I think having a PC and iPhone and iPad that don’t play well together Where’s my Grandson when I need him
49831449878_20eb33d3c4_w.jpg
[/url]FLICKR HOSTING by adamhagan, on Flickr[/img]
 
I finally got to post pictures to my album thank you for suggesting Chrome I finally got it to work Now to look over and find out how to post
I guess when you don’t use it you loose it
 
My boat is a 1998 22’ Cruiser. I bought it with the Mach Air installed. It has zero reinforcement under it with a nice bow in the roof maybe about an inch of drop. I am not even concerned about that. When I replace it, I may add reinforcement depending on the A/C. I did notice that it is good to check the mounting bolts at least once a year for proper tightness. My A/C starts to rattle when the engines are less than 2000 RPMs. It gives me an indication to tighten up the mounting bolts. It hasn’t leaked, moved, or spider cracked any of the roof. It’s total fine and I love the cold air it puts out.

They make a carbon foam reinforcement stringer that simply could be soaked in resin and stuck to the overhead athwartships. Once hardened it would be as strong as welding the aluminum. Would be lighter and easy to paint (more ideas to ponder).
 
carbon foam reinforcement stringer that simply could be soaked in resin and stuck to the overhead athwartships. Once hardened it would be as strong as welding the aluminum. Would be lighter and easy to paint (more ideas to ponder).

Interesting--and it would work if the foam early condors to the contour of the top.
What is your source? This using fiberglass and foam is the nearest I could find
You would have to hold that in place while the resin kicks off. You could make your own stringers with a more flexible foam, and then just make an "H" section re-inforcement. I just found the wood was easier and faster--but it is heavier.

I am skeptical if a beam of 1x2 hardwood running port/starboard will be sufficient to deflect the axial forces encountered by a strong wave. It states it is only 91lbs...but it feels heavier?

In fact the wood (mine were about 3 inches wide (may have been 4" non dimensional lumber). If you take that to near the edge of the upsweep of the cabin top--it makes it more like an "I" beam--and would give you the strength you need. It will work.
 
Instead of an “I” shape with the foam. Simply radius the corners of your foam stringers to make a “D” shape. Epoxy the foam shape to the overhead use masking tape (green color is the best for this job). The more rounded the “D” shaped foam, the stronger the carbon fiber will act like an “I” beam shape even stronger if used on the contoured roof of the 22. The more layers of carbon the stronger it will become. This is where I get my supplies; fiberglassflorida.com They have all kinds of high-tech composites.

I might do this on my boat but for the effort of this project, I'm totally fine with the slight dip in my roof.
 
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