Considering a C Dory 22 cruiser
- Thread starter eerdoc
- Start date
I regularly run in 18" of water going over a sand bar on the entrance to my home dock during winter low tides. We go stern to the beach at places with no tides, such as lake Powell and the water will be 10" at the stern.
I would say that 15 to 18" of depth for running the boat at slow speeds with the motor trimmed up. Actually floating, probably 10 to 12 "--as you lower the boat off the trailer, with engine trimmed up, that is what it would take to float the stern. BUT, you will not be able to launch off a bunk trailer at that depth--a roller trailer, yes.
I would say that 15 to 18" of depth for running the boat at slow speeds with the motor trimmed up. Actually floating, probably 10 to 12 "--as you lower the boat off the trailer, with engine trimmed up, that is what it would take to float the stern. BUT, you will not be able to launch off a bunk trailer at that depth--a roller trailer, yes.
Well, the boats generally go up and down the Inland Passage to AK, across the Columbia River Bar, to Catalina, a few to the Bahamas. I lived in Richmond for 2 years, and spent another 6 months on my boat in the Chesapeake. Raced all over the bay.
We have several members who live in VA or nearby. They are happy with their 22's. Any body of water can be nasty, including the Chesapeake. But the C Dory 22 is as good as any boat that size for that body of water, in my opinion.
The C Dory can be a 4 season boat on the Chesapeake -- which is unusual in a boat that size.
One has to understand that the boats are low deadrise, so can pound, if not properly run into waves, and chop. You may have to show down, trim the engine down. I feel that both trim tabs and a Permatrim are almost essential to get the best performance out of the boats.
We have several members who live in VA or nearby. They are happy with their 22's. Any body of water can be nasty, including the Chesapeake. But the C Dory 22 is as good as any boat that size for that body of water, in my opinion.
The C Dory can be a 4 season boat on the Chesapeake -- which is unusual in a boat that size.
One has to understand that the boats are low deadrise, so can pound, if not properly run into waves, and chop. You may have to show down, trim the engine down. I feel that both trim tabs and a Permatrim are almost essential to get the best performance out of the boats.
I live in Northern VA and run my 22 on the Bay. I usually launch from Sandy Point State Park by the Bay bridge and cruise the area between Baltimore and St. Michaels, MD (spent 2 days at St. Michaels two weeks ago). Never had any problems and have no hesitation about going out there. Of course, some days are better than others, but the 22 can handle 2-3 waves with no problem. Just have to trim it right for the conditions.
schiavolou
New member
There are many C-Dories on the Bay. (See the Brat Map). I had a 22 out of Essex Maryland and Stafford VA for a season, and have operated a 25 out of Solomons, MD and Hampton VA for 7-8 years.
They are safe but often uncomfortable in seas over 2ft, common all spring and often on summer afternoons. Otherwise its suitability depends on how you would use it. They are great for cruising and exploring the many interesting destinations around the Bay. If you are more into fishing or day trips with kids, there are probably better choices.
Let us know of your progress. C-Brats in the Tidewater VA area often cruise together.
They are safe but often uncomfortable in seas over 2ft, common all spring and often on summer afternoons. Otherwise its suitability depends on how you would use it. They are great for cruising and exploring the many interesting destinations around the Bay. If you are more into fishing or day trips with kids, there are probably better choices.
Let us know of your progress. C-Brats in the Tidewater VA area often cruise together.
Larry Patrick
New member
Anyone know what water depth should measure for bunk trailer and 23 venture for launching,thinking of going to Janes Island would be nice to be able to check depths at launches before trying to launch boat. I remember trying to launch a boat in river once it was a tracker and was never able to get it off trailer even with truck in water regular dirt launch but just not deep enough.
There are always ways to get boats off trailers. A tongue extension is one way. Roller trailers allow almost any depth of water. The depth of water vs gradient or pitch of the ramp is key. The bigger the boat, the more difficult on marginal ramps. I doubt that there is much difference between the 22 and 23. Lots of factors on the trailer, including type of axle, rollers in the center, spacing and number of bunks etc.
I have a 23. Bunk trailers and the flat bottom can be a pain if not enough water under the boat to start floating it. There have been times at the Everett ramp I've had to back the rear truck tires into the water and still had to power the boat off the trailer with the engines. Takes a good goose of the throttle to get her loose. The Everett ramp is pretty nice so I'd test a low water launch and retrieve before committing to a trip where you know you'll be at that water level. The steepness of the launch area is a factor too.Larry Patrick":1mfafnvr said:
schiavolou":ue8642mx said:
I'm very new to this.....What would be some other choices you would consider? I'd probably do some fishing but don't know that would be the main reason for going out. Mostly exploring and day trips, but I do have family that like to fish. My main constraint is that I have about 2 feet MLLW at my dock and I'd really like to be able to get a boat out at most if not all times. The C-dory seemed to be a good choice for that. I'd really appreciate any recommendations. Thanks so much....
eerdoc":or22p889 said:
A roller trailer will allow you to launch and retrieve in shallower water than a bunk trailer, because of the roller action, as opposed to having to float off.
However, 2 feet of water may be a bit shallow even for a roller type trailer. I have one, but have not really tested the limits of its shallow water launching capacity. However, I'd guess you need 2-1/2 to 3 feet of water even with the roller job.......
Also, the rollers are somewhat harder on the bottom of your boat, especially if you have some sort of anti-fouling paint, although if you're dry storing the boat on the trailer, you probably won't have the bottom painted.
Hopefully, someone can give you a meaningful number for the minimum launch depth figure for the different forms of trailers.
IT ALSO DEPENDS A LOT ON THE STEEPNESS OF THE RAMP AND HOW FAR YOU'RE WILLING TO BACK THE TOW VEHICLE INTO THE WATER. (!)
Good Luck!
Joe. :teeth :thup
You just need to search around this site a bit. All the info you need is here.
My CD22 is a 4 season boat in Alaska. I lived in VA for 12 years prior, and my CD would have been a fine boat there, although I sailed a small trimaran instead while there.
The Ches is sort of shallow, so you get close tight chop. Your CD won't be a speed demon, but it will be seaworthy and safe and easily allow you four seasons of use.
I have draft limitations in some of the places I go. My boat does great in about a foot or so. You can launch in some shallow water if your trailer has rollers. More difficult with bunks.
Good luck.
My CD22 is a 4 season boat in Alaska. I lived in VA for 12 years prior, and my CD would have been a fine boat there, although I sailed a small trimaran instead while there.
The Ches is sort of shallow, so you get close tight chop. Your CD won't be a speed demon, but it will be seaworthy and safe and easily allow you four seasons of use.
I have draft limitations in some of the places I go. My boat does great in about a foot or so. You can launch in some shallow water if your trailer has rollers. More difficult with bunks.
Good luck.
Larry Patrick
New member
Last trip to Lake Erie went to closest ramp near marina it was tight but within a 1/2 mile of slip after launching decided to pick boat up at different ramp when trip was over. Even though it was extra 20 minutes to better ramp to pull out. Was tired and late in the day so it worked good being close by but lots of jet skis boats ect at public ramp picking it up at pay ramp was only boat there at time we retrived boat.
Robert H. Wilkinson
New member
A lot of marina's do not allow power loading or launching. It will eventually undercut the end of the ramp and create a drop-off.
If you get the boat to float, you can sometimes pull it off with dock lines easier - once you put your weight in the boat it often is resting on the bunks again. If the ramp is not busy you can even load your gear after launching.
I am NOT recommending this but my Campion came on a roller/tilt trailer. The guy I bought it from told me that you could back it up to the side of a river, etc.(no ramp) pull the tilt pin and literally dump the boat into the water. You would need a ramp to retrieve it though. I never found the need or the bravery necessary to try this.
Regards, Rob
If you get the boat to float, you can sometimes pull it off with dock lines easier - once you put your weight in the boat it often is resting on the bunks again. If the ramp is not busy you can even load your gear after launching.
I am NOT recommending this but my Campion came on a roller/tilt trailer. The guy I bought it from told me that you could back it up to the side of a river, etc.(no ramp) pull the tilt pin and literally dump the boat into the water. You would need a ramp to retrieve it though. I never found the need or the bravery necessary to try this.
Regards, Rob
I have found that launching or retrieving (with my Pacific, Bunk trailer) works best if there is some extra weight in the aft. So when I arrive at the ramp I load whatever I am taking with into the cockpit, to add a bit of stern weight and it comes off much easier. Obviously this could be dependent on the ramp steepness angle, but for the ramps I use in the PNW it has worked well.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
eerdoc":371blils said:
No. With a trailer, the trailer is generally at an angle on a ramp (sort of the definition of "ramp"). With a boat lift, the lift is usually parallel to the water. In either case, you need to get enough of the boat in the water to float it off the trailer/lift. With the angle, the depth generally has to be greater since the back end is going in deeper than the front end. With a lift, the issue is whether or not there is enough space below the boat to get the supporting structure into the water far enough for the boat to clear it. But since the boat is horizontal, more of the hull surface is contacting the water and it should float off easier.