Converting to Electric over Hydraulic

Wandering Sagebrush

Wandering Sagebrush

Free Range Human
I've wanted to convert our new (2014) 4700 lb tandem EZ-Loader over to electric over hydraulic ever since coming back from Lake Powell and hitting a 17% downgrade on one of my routes. Concern about pump pressures being too much for the brake calipers on the surge system has been a topic here on the forum, so I was uncertain about how much needed to be replaced.

After several attempts, I got ahold of a very helpful person at EZ-Loader, who was willing to spend a lot of time with me on the phone. With the VIN, he was able to identify the calipers (UFP 10" non integral) that were on my trailer. While there was no upgrade kit for my trailer, he checked the next larger size trailer with E-O-H. It used the same calipers as mine, and there is a kit, so I can upgrade without having to replace everything. eTrailer also offers a similar kit, using the same pump brand (Hydra Star), that is significantly less money. I plan to upgrade we get back from our winter travels.
 
We had a Hydrastar/ Carlisle 1200 pound brake controller fail on a 2009 Float On trailer that carried our 2008 Venture. I think Float On installed the wrong controller when we had our surge activated disc brakes upgraded to EOH brakes.. I seem to remember the 1200 PSI models were for drum brakes and the 1600 psi units were for disc brakes. I replaced the failed 1200 psi unit with the 1600 psi version, much better. My friend also had to get a 1600 psi Hydra Star unit replaced under warranty.
We now use a Titan/BrakeRite controller that was supplied factory installed original equipment on a 2014 Float On 12,000 pound trailer / heavier boat. I would swing for the Titan BrakeRite unit. We have trailered with the new trailer coast to coast and back with no issues. I do recommend changing brake fluid in every two years on any brake systems trailer or main tow vehicle. Brake fluid attracts moisture. Water is heavier than brake fluid and will settle to the bottom and pit the bottom of the caliber bores eventually and cause caliper issues.
D.D.
 
A little follow up. I spoke with the folks at UFP, and learned that pump/actuator pressure needs are a function of disk type. If aluminum, they recommend 1000 lbs, stainless or iron in the 1500-1600 lb range.

Edit: the Titan/Brakerite units are built by UFP, and compatible with the new Ford brake controllers. Thanks D.D.
 
The surge typically run at the 1200 psi, so the lines, flexible lines, and the calipers are rated at that figure.
The EOH units come in both ratings.
You are correct about matching the EOH unit to the components rating that are on your trailer right now.
Will a 1200 psi EOH unit work with the existing components ? Yes.
alan
 
Specs on 1200 hydraulic brake actuator note the part about drum brakes.

Hydrastar Trailer Brakes - HSV381-7066

Anodized aluminum electric-hydraulic actuator lets you use your brake controller (sold separately) to activate your trailer's hydraulic drum brakes. Vented end plate releases heat. Includes hardware. Hydraulic lines and breakaway sold separately.


Features:
•Electric-over-hydraulic brake actuator activates your trailer's hydraulic brakes when you apply the brakes in your tow vehicle ◦Brake controller (sold separately) is required to send signal from tow vehicle to actuator when brakes are applied
◦7-Way trailer connector (sold separately) is needed to transmit signal from brake controller

•Improved functionality when compared with surge brake couplers ◦Faster response time - trailer brakes are triggered when you apply brakes in tow vehicle, as opposed to when trailer pushes against hitch ball
◦No need to manually lock out brakes when you back up
◦Trailer brakes can be intentionally activated when you reverse
◦Manual override on brake controller can be activated so you can engage the trailer brakes without having to apply your vehicle brakes

•Vented end plate releases pressure, moisture, and heat in order to protect the internal components◦Allows actuator to be mounted in places where most actuators would overheat

•Electronic, proportional pressure valve ensures that braking is smooth and effective
•Built-in bleeder screw lets you easily flush air out of the brake lines
•Durable extruded aluminum provides corrosion resistance
•Compatible with any standard, 5-amp-hour-battery breakaway kit (sold separately)
•DOT compliant
•Unit installs on trailer frame and connects to trailer's wiring and hydraulic brake lines (sold separately)
•Made in the USA



Specs:
•Application: single-, tandem-, or triple-axle trailers (8,000 lbs or larger) with drum brakes ********
•Maximum output pressure: 1,200 psi
•Power: 12V DC
•Hydraulic port size: 3/16"
•Dimensions: 11-3/4" long x 3" wide x 7-3/8" tall
•Wire configuration:◦Black: 12-volt power
◦Blue: brake controller
◦Yellow: breakaway
◦White: ground

•2-Year limited warranty
 
It is good you found out about the ratings for the calipers.
Some have not realized the two different ratings, then burst the calipers after installing the 1600 psi pump.
Myself, my trailer came with the surge disk brakes. I bought the 1200 psi pump, have not installed it yet.
alan
 
I've also been impressed with e-trailer.

I'll have to look at the older posts on hydraulic pressure issues. I scared myself a bit already when inspecting my brake lines on the way back from Lake Powell. I had routed the lines down the trailer frame and attached with zip ties. There was some excess that was zip tied instead of taking the line to a hydraulics shop and getting a new fitting on a shorter hose. Of course, that's where a zip tie gave way. The hose brushed up against a trailer tire and there was a wear spot almost down to the reinforcing cord.

Brakes on a CD 16 trailer allow me to drive with reckless abandon. Well, not quite, but I'm sure that I've gotten used to the trailer not being much of an issue. Losing braking ability in an instant would be rude.

Mark
 
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