The "WeBoost" is a division of Wilson. It works with more modern cell service, such as 4/G. I Also have the more powerful big blue amp. The Drive 4G-X | 470510 is probably what I would get--but you need to see what frequency your phones are working on. You have to have a signal--and it should improve it significantly. We have picked up signals where we have not had them also. But that will not be as reliable. There still has to be "line of sight" to the tower.
The instructions said to "get permission" from your cell phone company. I went thru all of the forms etc--and contacted A T & T--they didn't seem to want to hear about it. The "danger" is overriding the front end receiver of their towers--pretty unlikely. The cell phone amp, should boost your received and transmitted signals.
The unit comes with a car antenna. We also have the boat antenna. The antenna requires a ground plane--the marine antenna, has small radials which give a ground plane. We have also used the car antenna with a pizza pan as a ground plane (on the RV--when going to the "WeBoost" the older trucker antenna was not quite as good since it was not tuned for one of the frequencies.
I would stick with 12 volt units. I suggest buying from "WeBoost" if there are any issues, they will give excellent service. (I had a minor issue, with connectors for the marine antenna, and they overnighter the proper adaptor to me.)
Another option is buying a Jet pack or similar simple receiver form Verizon. (Verizon has the best coverage. I used a "Jet Pack" and simple flip phone, for about 6 years to supplement my A T & T service) A T & T has a "Mobley" 20 gig unit for $20 a month, made for cars. Verizon coverage is better than A T & T. The "Mobley" received a lot of comment on one of the RV forums (restricted unfortunately) I am on.
Here is the initial post on the subject:
Recently discovered this plan and would like to pass it along. We have Verizon service and was very disappointed to learn their unlimited plan would only allow 10 gigs on a jetpack. I wanted to keep Verizon for the good national coverage for our phones.
Along came AT&T with what looks like a great plan option, no phone account needed. The stand alone car data unlimited plan for $20 per month. All you need is a ZTE Mobley device ($99) and a 110 ac adapter ($33) to use it in the motorhome or any home. These devices are somewhat slower than a conventional jetback but for us this will be a good deal. The plan is intended to wire your car as a wifi hot spot but with the adapter it will work anywhere.
You can read more about this at techomadia's website at this link:
http://www.rvmobileinternet.com/att-unl ... te-mobley/
If interested, I can copy more of the info in an e-mail.
As for the Air conditioner--My unit is a Frigidaire 5000 BTU, data plate says 5.2 amps. The current FRA052XT7 looks identical to mine--and its spec shows 4.8 "cooling amps" The start up current will be more--so you have to run the Honda Eu 1000 on non eco mode. I used a similar "Arctic King" which I got at WalMart--the current WalMart one appears the same, on my C Dory 25.
We have used it in the window of the c Dory22 and 25. Pool Noodles make a good "buffer and insulation--Also a short piece or two of 2 x 4, positioned so that any condensate (there will be a fair amount) will drain outward, not into the boat.
Mark and Carol on Crystal Sea, were very kind to loan us their unit when we were on the Mississippi River cruise. It was for their 25, and was too large for the 22 front window--but it worked fine when on the cockpit/sill of the cabin door. We draped the door cover over the top, and it cooled well.
We used the 5,000 BTU unit in a high humidity environment where the outside temp was 105*. It brought the inside temp to 82 degrees in the C Dory 25. We also cut some window "insulation"--with sheets of reflective mylar foil/bubble wrap. I would also cut some for the aft cabin door, and forward hatch. (We have a horizontal window shade on our forward hatch, as well as a "no see em" screen.) If you choose to use the AC unit on the floor (easier on the backs!).
Get a unit with analogue controls (Not digital). You can make a "long run" tank out of a 3 gallon outboard fuel tank--you have to modify a fuel cap, so the outboard tank feeds into the top of the fuel cap. (You can buy a modified cap). Some say they have used the C Dory fuel tank--We have not--It depends on how high from the tank the draw is going to be--if it is over a foot or so, it may not work.
Be sure you have good CO detectors. Be sure that the generator exhaust is pointing down wind and away from the boat. Don't moor next to a boat running a generator exhaust out of the side of the boat--toward your boat!
Enjoy being cool! (Who said being "cool" was easy? !!)[/quote]