William and Beth Tucker
New member
Corn starch will stop the chafing.....
Deck Thickness/Bow Chocks?
- Thread starter Valkyrie
- Start date
Captains Cat
New member
How much do I need to put on my bow?
Oh wait, I think you meant my stern! :cry :disgust
Charlie
Oh wait, I think you meant my stern! :cry :disgust
Charlie
Al & Pat Parker
New member
The 25 is a bit different than the 22 up at the bow, I think. I've got a pic that shows our 25's bow chocks, not real detailed 'cuz it wasn't taken for that reason. I was surprised to find that there were none on the boat as it came from the factory, and asked Gene at Mobile East to install a pair. before we took dely in July.
I guess maybe they figure most boats live on a trailer, or are at anchor if in the water, so wouldn't need chocks. Ours lives in the water at a slip. If you anchor overnite you oughta tie the rode off to the cleat, not rely on the roller & windlass, as someone else said.
I'm "not allowed" to att. anything to a post here, for some reason, so can't do that, but if you look at our webpage shown in the sig., look at the "maiden splash" pic, and blow it up you can see it. We put it further aft than Charlie did, look closely & you'll see that the cleat behind the windlass is lined up with the chock & the camera. No non-skid there on the 25.
I guess maybe they figure most boats live on a trailer, or are at anchor if in the water, so wouldn't need chocks. Ours lives in the water at a slip. If you anchor overnite you oughta tie the rode off to the cleat, not rely on the roller & windlass, as someone else said.
I'm "not allowed" to att. anything to a post here, for some reason, so can't do that, but if you look at our webpage shown in the sig., look at the "maiden splash" pic, and blow it up you can see it. We put it further aft than Charlie did, look closely & you'll see that the cleat behind the windlass is lined up with the chock & the camera. No non-skid there on the 25.
The curved SS plate your friend referred to is called a SS Rub STRAKE which can found on the Boater World site. They come in 12", 18" & 24" length, priced from $14 to $22 each.
I am still bebating as to which way to go since my CD25 is kept in dry storeage. I do have heavy duty chaffing gear on my 2 bow lines as they pass across the deck near the bow rail support. This is OK for now, but either a strake or chock would be superior; especially the chock. Nothing says you can't use both.
I am still bebating as to which way to go since my CD25 is kept in dry storeage. I do have heavy duty chaffing gear on my 2 bow lines as they pass across the deck near the bow rail support. This is OK for now, but either a strake or chock would be superior; especially the chock. Nothing says you can't use both.
I prefer to put side deck cleates and a SS rub strip, rather than chocks. The angle of bow lines can vary greatly, and if there is a sharp bend at a chock, then there will be excessive chafe. Any cleat or fairlead, thru a cored deck should be drilled out, epoxy filled, and then backed. If you crank down on a bolt (and all load bearing hardware should be bolted), you will crush the core, unless you drill and under cut the core, fill with epoxy and redrill.
The SS round strips, are screwd on, since they don't take any load, and protect the fiberglass at the side of the deck. Again, drill out the hole, fill, redrill, and then use 5200 under the strip. We used these strips on all of our long distance cruising boats, and never had any chafe problems. But--if there is a storm or prolonged use, then chafing gear is in order.
The SS round strips, are screwd on, since they don't take any load, and protect the fiberglass at the side of the deck. Again, drill out the hole, fill, redrill, and then use 5200 under the strip. We used these strips on all of our long distance cruising boats, and never had any chafe problems. But--if there is a storm or prolonged use, then chafing gear is in order.
Dr. Bob,
You never cease to amaze me with your depth of knowledge and experience.
My original plan was to mount the chocks, grab the deployed anchor line ahead of the pivoting bow roller, lead it through the chock and then attach to the bow cleat.
If I would go with two additional cleats at the bow and the rub strakes that you mention, do you think that mounting them where the chocks would typically go would be a workable solution? This would also enable me to run them clear of the windlass.
Thanks for your insight,
Nick
"Valkyrie"
You never cease to amaze me with your depth of knowledge and experience.
My original plan was to mount the chocks, grab the deployed anchor line ahead of the pivoting bow roller, lead it through the chock and then attach to the bow cleat.
If I would go with two additional cleats at the bow and the rub strakes that you mention, do you think that mounting them where the chocks would typically go would be a workable solution? This would also enable me to run them clear of the windlass.
Thanks for your insight,
Nick
"Valkyrie"
matt_unique
New member
I mentioned in an earlier post I will keep Napoleon (TC 255) on a mooring. Ideally my lines should run straight off the bow. I wonder if chocks would be better than additional cleats in my case? Or perhaps I should add cleats close to the bow?
Thanks for the tips!
--Matt
Thanks for the tips!
--Matt
Matt-
You might want to rig a system that would allow you to use the towing eye down below the bow to attach the mooring line to.
The lower attachment point would be better in terms of the dynamics of where you pull on the boat, and would avoid the chafe issue on the bow and rails.
Joe.
You might want to rig a system that would allow you to use the towing eye down below the bow to attach the mooring line to.
The lower attachment point would be better in terms of the dynamics of where you pull on the boat, and would avoid the chafe issue on the bow and rails.
Joe.
Nick,
I would place the cleats as far foreward as I could in each bow section, allowing for a back up plates/or at least the bigest fender washers I could obtain. The SS strips would be foreward and along side of the cleats.
The amidships cleate is a problem in both the Tom Cat and CD 25 with a windlass--and the lines going to a dock have to go over the deck. The lines to an anchor have to go along side the windless, putting strain on the housing.
As Joe suggests, we use a snubber line of 3/8" diameter 3 strand to the anchor rode from the bow eye of the Tom Cat (it is much easier to reach than the CD 25. But if I was anchoring much with the 25, I would put a permant line shackled to the bow eye, and then use it as an anchor snubber on the anchor rode (useing a rolling hitch). The inboard end of the anchor rode cleated to the cleat aft of the windlass--or one of the bow anchors. The bow cleats are a project, now that the 25 is finished and in Calif.
I would place the cleats as far foreward as I could in each bow section, allowing for a back up plates/or at least the bigest fender washers I could obtain. The SS strips would be foreward and along side of the cleats.
The amidships cleate is a problem in both the Tom Cat and CD 25 with a windlass--and the lines going to a dock have to go over the deck. The lines to an anchor have to go along side the windless, putting strain on the housing.
As Joe suggests, we use a snubber line of 3/8" diameter 3 strand to the anchor rode from the bow eye of the Tom Cat (it is much easier to reach than the CD 25. But if I was anchoring much with the 25, I would put a permant line shackled to the bow eye, and then use it as an anchor snubber on the anchor rode (useing a rolling hitch). The inboard end of the anchor rode cleated to the cleat aft of the windlass--or one of the bow anchors. The bow cleats are a project, now that the 25 is finished and in Calif.
Dr. Bob,
Thanks, sounds like a plan! Of course, the bow of my boat will look like a cleat farm, but what the heck! It will definitely be a much more practical application than the bow chocks.
These threads amaze me. Less than 72 hours after my first post I've gone from chocks to cleats, have garnered 30 replies and 860 hits. Also, it appears that other Brats were thinking about the same project.
Regards,
Nick
"Valkyrie"
Thanks, sounds like a plan! Of course, the bow of my boat will look like a cleat farm, but what the heck! It will definitely be a much more practical application than the bow chocks.
These threads amaze me. Less than 72 hours after my first post I've gone from chocks to cleats, have garnered 30 replies and 860 hits. Also, it appears that other Brats were thinking about the same project.
Regards,
Nick
"Valkyrie"
Dr. Bob,
Thanks, sounds like a plan! Of course, the bow of my boat will look like a cleat farm, but what the heck! It will definitely be a much more practical application than the bow chocks.
These threads amaze me. Less than 72 hours after my first post I've gone from chocks to cleats, have garnered 30 replies and 860 hits. Also, it appears that other Brats were thinking about the same project.
Regards,
Nick
"Valkyrie"
Thanks, sounds like a plan! Of course, the bow of my boat will look like a cleat farm, but what the heck! It will definitely be a much more practical application than the bow chocks.
These threads amaze me. Less than 72 hours after my first post I've gone from chocks to cleats, have garnered 30 replies and 860 hits. Also, it appears that other Brats were thinking about the same project.
Regards,
Nick
"Valkyrie"
:beer 