Dinghy Rack

Greg,

Sounds like a fun trip you are on. We took a quick trip over the weekend to Eagle Island. Towed the pudgy both ways and are pleased with the result. Looked like it could use a little weight to settle the hop but man it tracks straight as an arrow like you said. You and the crew going to make it to Sequim?

Harvey,
Sounds like a good inflatable. I still have a backpack I bought in Korea twenty or so years ago. Still works like new.

karl
 
Karl, we are still out through next week so we won't make it to Sequim this time. Enjoy the warm weather down there and say hi to folks.

Greg
 
Well,

After an unsuccessful first go round I contacted Garhauer about a longer base for the lifting davit. Turns out they can make them any length you want. So we went with a 50 inch base (standard is 31 inches) to provide enough lift to get the Portland Pudgy up onto the cabin. And so we could mount the base to the gunnel for extra support. It's not perfect but it's going to work for us.

Took a trip to Blake Island to test it all out and we are happy enough with the results. The loading and unloading will have to be done in sheltered waters but that is typically where we have loaded and unloaded the raft in the past. The Garhauer davit is very solid when mounted to the gunnel. Now to find a good fiberglass guy to fix the holes from the first try.

003_G.sized.jpg

009_G.jpg

Happy Boating,

karl
 
Good fiberglass guy, eh? I thought Tern Boat Salvage did a very nice job on mine. One of the guys there is a former C-Dory builder too.
 
Nice work Karl and Amy,

They are a great little boat and towing sure works well for us once we unload for a trip. I notice the strap over the boat while roof loaded and have an idea for you. Take two pieces of approximately 2.5ft long 1 inch tubular webbing or 1/4inch line and tie them each in a loop with a significant knot. Slide the loop down through the daggerboard slots near the oar locks so that the knot rests at the top and allows a short loop of material to protrude from bottom of the slot. You can use that loop with a short slide/buckle strap (REI sourced) on each side to secure the boat down solidly and you can just leave the loops in there all the time. After tons of towing and use, our webbing loops have never budged so they are always there and ready for tie down.

Also, the life line cushions sold by the foot from this place work as perfect fenders to keep the pudgy quiet when side tied to the C-dory overnight. Just run a line through and pass each end of the line through the tie down holes in the upper sides of the boat and knot them on the inside. We always leave those in place with no probems as well.

http://www.bottomsiders.com/acc.tpl?typ ... 3271&acc=T



Repair note:

We actually put about an inch long crack in the floor of the pudgy with a group 24 battery incident while up in BC and I used a portion of JB WaterWeld and just pressed it in place like bubble gum and it's holding really well. Might want to pick up a tube in case of accidental really harsh treatment.

We were at Blake last weekend so just missed ya,

Greg
 
amy and karl":1kyti4q7 said:
Hi Bob,

Simply the elevation needed to use the stock garhauer lift put too much torque on the chosen mounting point. The result was flexing on the side of the cabin that surprisingly didn't break a window. The garhauer can lift the pudgy no problem. I just like to do. Sometimes it works out sometimes it doesn't.

Karl
Click to expand...

Karl, Dr. Bob gave me a Garhauer with Thataway and one mounting is on the cockpit floor braced with a ring in the transom (for lifting outboards onto dingy's). He also gave me an extra base mount and ring to mount it on the cabin side and I'll use it as an emergency lift for people (using a lifesling). Where did you mount the ring on the CD22? On the brow of the cabin top? If so, is it strong enough or did you go through that and mount through the cabin sides. You may have used your radar arch too, can't tell from the latest pictures.

Thanks, Charlie
 
Karl
Ferret is right. Tern did some glass repair for me, and you can't even tell where the work was done. The only place you con tell the differance is inside on the speckled finish and only if you know where to look. I can not remember the name of the young man there that actually did the work on my boat, but he is good.
 
Buck is the former C-Dory guy now at Tern. He was our guy on our CD22 build in 2003. A good guy.

Spike":15u059y2 said:
Karl
Ferret is right. Tern did some glass repair for me, and you can't even tell where the work was done. The only place you con tell the differance is inside on the speckled finish and only if you know where to look. I can not remember the name of the young man there that actually did the work on my boat, but he is good.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the advice on Tern Boat Salvage guys. I'll give them a call when we have our list ready.

Greg, thanks for the advice on the tie down procedure. Are the slide buckles something REI sells individually? Must have just missed you on Sunday at Blake.

Charlie, we used the ring on the first go round. We had it mounted to the roof brow. One thing I would suggest if you go that route is to flatten the curve in the metal on the mounting side. I know the roof is a lot more stout on a cat than a 22. We went with a radar arch mount on the latest version. Also sold by Garhauer and very sturdy. By the way, Garhauer is a great company to work with.
stern-rail-bracket.jpg

We just used the rail mount pieces in the center of the picture. Simple cut to length, bolt through the unwelded end.
100_0507.jpg
This is how my folks mounted it on their 25 before they sold it last year. This was an extremely strong setup!

Thanks again,
karl
 
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