Equalizer hitch

Dan,
More good advice, Thanks, man.
The trailer sits level now. I had already added the height adjustment before we went down to Haines to pick up the boat.
I have the weights to add to the trailer tongue to test for tongue weight, too.
Wow! Thirty below at the house this morning. At least the ice carvers will be happy.
Pat
 
Very interesting Steeve , what you are saying is it does not realy matter how much weigth there is on the tow vehicule , if your truck can handle the weight with no problem? I have a dually so weight is not a factor for me , but I tought that on a tamdem trailer, distrubition of the weigth would affect the ware of you tires is that correct ?




Gary SEARAM
 
I am surprised DoD kept his points so simple. There is a real science to tongue weight. Here's how I saw it done by an expert:

Right after we got the CD25 on the new trailer, I towed it up to Les at EQ with a Jeep Cherokee. No problems, even though the boat outweighed the rig by better than a ton. When I went to pick it back up, I had the new 1-ton PU. When we hooked the trailer up, Les says, "the back of the truck didn't go down any". We moved the winch stand about a foot forward on the tongue, then he got a floor jack on wheels, a chunk of 4x6 to go between the jack and the boat, lifted the stern a bit, and cranked the boat up to the bow roller. The back of the truck settled down about half an inch, and Les says, "That looks good". Haven't ever changed it and have never had any towing trouble.

As for weight distribution on tandem axles, I don't believe it is as critical as one might think. As the springs (torsion bars, whatever) go down on the heavy axle, more of the load is moved onto the other. Within reason, of course. The biggest factor is the correct hitch height so the trailer/rig is eyeball level, as Dan said. The best indicator of even loading is hub temperature after a long haul on the freeway. Noticeable difference to the touch front/rear for length and side/side for center loading will tell you how the boat is riding. If they all feel about the same and the trailer tows good, then the science is mastered.

Disclaimer: The paper mill where I do my millwrightin' doesn't have too many boat trailers for me to work on. They do seem to have an abundance of engineers, however. Furthermore, when doing the touch test for temperature, don't bother checking the brake discs. They be plenty warm.
 
Gary,

On trailer tire wear. After towing my previous boat, an F-31 trimaran, from Los Angeles to Miami and back (Bahamas trip), I experienced severe tire wear. This boat though had peculiar characteristics on the trailer that the C-Dory's don't have, it would pitch-pole a lot due to it's length and significant weight at the bow (ground tackle) and the stern (9.9HP electric start 4-stroke and gas tank). But the largest wear on the tires I believe was due to the 18 wheeler's going by at 80+ mph compared to my 60-65. Caused severe sway on every passing, blew the right rear tire through the cords on my van and rounded off the tandem axle trailer tires when I arrived in Miami.

Moral of the story, tongue weight good, sway bad.

Steve
 
I know someone, somewhere recently published a picture of what happens if you fit a standard 2.75" shank length ball to an Equalizer hitch but I sure can't find it.

Anyway just wanted to say many, many thanks because it just stopped me from making the same "spendy" mistake. The dealer (who should have known better) supplied me with a 2.75" shank ball with the hitch.

The Equalizer installation instructions just happen to mention in small print that the shank length should be 2.25". This should be printed in large RED letters.
If you fit the long shank, it contacts the spring arm bars in a tight turn and does nasty (very) things to them.
So anyone getting an Equalizer beware. Length (not size) does matter !!

Merv

Merv
 
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