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DuckDogTitus

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C Dory Year
1988
C Dory Model
22 Cruiser
Hull Identification Number
DOR22332K788
Vessel Name
C-Miner
So some older models seem to have a few bits of wood here and there. handles across the top of the cabin, in the aft deck, etc. I doubt that coincidentally a bunch of owners made this modification... I assume the factory used to use wood and later went away from it?

I'm curious when the change occurred. I've seen some older CDorys out on the water with me and I'm trying to figure out how to pinpoint their era or model year with these types of hints. One I saw looked older than mine but the owner told me it was much much much newer. I thought the wood accessories were surely a sign of an older cdory.
 
We had the wooden railings and handles in our 1993 22. After a life of maintaining teak, I was happy to see the SS railings replace the teak. I did add some SS with the teak. Looking back, I believe that the SS became available in 1994 on the 22.
 
thataway":36psta65 said:
We had the wooden railings and handles in our 1993 22. After a life of maintaining teak, I was happy to see the SS railings replace the teak. I did add some SS with the teak. Looking back, I believe that the SS became available in 1994 on the 22.
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SS = stainless?

that time frame sounds closer to what I thought. I saw a CD 22 cruiser that looked identical to mine and they told me it was a year 2000.
 
Yes, SS= Stainless Steel. There will be a number of differences between your 1988 and a 2000 C Dory--but they will all be mostly "cosmetic"--the door and even the aft bulkhead may be different materials. The window may be different. The interior will be different (not sure when the foreward floor/bunk molding was changed). There will be white vs the wood grain Decaguard. The wood is different. There may or may not be different Lazarette hatches--but the basic huil, cabin etc will be the same.
 
seems to me like the paint changed sometime in the late 90s as well? (the tint of white)
 
DuckDogTitus":2ywomy3j said:
seems to me like the paint changed sometime in the late 90s as well? (the tint of white)
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I hadn't noticed that (I looked at a 1990... will have to re-check the photos I took). What do you see for a change?
 
Sunbeam":1uw7i0ox said:
DuckDogTitus":1uw7i0ox said:
seems to me like the paint changed sometime in the late 90s as well? (the tint of white)
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I hadn't noticed that (I looked at a 1990... will have to re-check the photos I took). What do you see for a change?
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well it could be age. but it seems to me like all boats from the 80s era have the exact same shade of sun yellowing compared to then new bright white hulls. where the 80s boats the same bright white and are just naturally yellowed over the years?? I assumed maybe it was a difference in paint since even areas of shadow seem to have the same color.
 
Ah okay, I haven't noticed that, but then I ended up looking at 1990's and newer ones (what I found available at the time).

Side note since it has come up: The boats are gelcoated (a polyester resin vs. a paint), and mine at least uses a Cook Composites "white" coded as follows:

CCP # DX 963-WK-506

I got this information from a note that Scot/Triton posted which came from some old notes he had found. I have since bought some of the white and blue (from Gelcoat Products) using these codes and they are a good match (that is, the white is a nearly perfect match, and the blue looks good but I have only used a tiny amount so I don't have as good a sense of how perfect it is yet).

Here was the full list:

1) Forest Green: Cook Composites # 953-GJ-081
2) Tailgate Blue: Cook Composites # 953-LJ-110
3) Cabarnet[ sic]: Cook Composites # 953-MA-206
4) Roberts Gray: CCP # 963-AK-212
5) Black: CCP # 944-B-096
6) Cdory White Gelcoat: CCP # DX 963-WK-506
7) Cdory White Enamel: CCP # DX 948-WA-441


I'm not sure what the "white enamel" refers to (I bought the other white gelcoat code). At first I though maybe it was the paint they used on the edges of the white Decraguard cabinets, but then why would it have a CCP # (that seems like it would be a Cook Composites gelcoat code). So maybe that's the "other" white you have seen? Or maybe it's one of the interior/bilge whites - my interior/bilge use the same base color as the outside of the boat with a caramel-colored spatter, but perhaps the boats with a grey non-skid and sole accent use something else (?) (mine has a buff colored non-skid). I haven't researched it further.

Sunbeam
 
Sunbeam, since I think you have a better understanding of gelcoat than myself I've thought about this thread a lot. What does it take to "paint" the color stripe on our C-Dorys? whether you are trying to repaint the existing color, or put down a new color, what is the process? Is it as simple as spraying on something in a "paint" fashion, even though the product is not paint, it is gelcoat? or is it much more complex than that? I Have some customization ideas for the winter but I'm wondering if its more work than its worth.
 
Well, presuming you want a high-quality 2-part paint, it's basically the prep you would do for any good paint job, plus spraying the paint on. The latter should be done with a true, supplied-air respirator as atomized two-part paints are nothing to mess with, lung-wise.

Two part paints (coatings, really) can be rolled or brushed on and then tipped - and I would consider doing that on something "big and flat and usually far away," such as a 30-foot sailboat; but for myself, I would want to have a C-Dory sprayed (I'm not one of those experienced roller-tippers who can lay down an amazing finish, although those people do exist). There are pro's who will spray a boat you have prepped, and the prep is something anyone with attention to detail and patience can accomplish. It's also very time consuming, so a savings can be realized by doing it at home.

I wouldn't categorize it as cheap or easy, no matter how its done. However, properly done, it's gorgeous and the shine very long lasting. Whether the same or a new color wouldn't matter as far as the work/cost, so one could have a "different" color to the standard ones.

There are two types of 2-part paints used on boats, typically, the Awlgrip type, and the Imron type. There are differences (worth considering if one is actually going to go ahead with it), but they don't change any of the prep or application considerably, so can be considered interchangeable for the "just thinking about it" stage.

One-part paints don't have the long-lasting shine of the two-parts. I like the way they look on wooden boat, but prefer a two-part on fiberglass.
 
thanks that helps quite a bit. when I was initially looking my favorite color was the same as your boat. The red we have has really grown on me and we get a lot of compliments on it. I do like the idea of a full hull paint job like the blue brat here on the site, but I also like the idea of just repainting the red stripes black. to match my heart. :mrgreen:

the boats really in great shape for its age, but since it is 25 years I feel like maybe doing some of this type of touch up work will kind of "freshen" up a classic for both myself, and the next owner. (someday)
 
DuckDogTitus":3u397tdd said:
thanks that helps quite a bit. when I was initially looking my favorite color was the same as your boat. The red we have has really grown on me and we get a lot of compliments on it.
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Ha, funny, as my favorite accent color for a 22 is red like yours is! (But I couldn't find one when I was looking.)

Now that I got the "No, it's not cheap or easy" out of my system, I should say that if one were only going to paint (or have painted) the accent stripes (i.e. brow and sheer stripe; for now let's forget the bottom), it wouldn't be *that* big/expensive/crazy. You would avoid the complication of the strakes, windows, rub rail, hardware, etc. for masking and painting around, and it would not be a large volume of supplies. I saw - I think in one of the photo albums here (forget which boat though) - where an owner preferred a different accent color and had just those parts painted. That would be a lot of bang for buck, presuming one was happy with the main body color and condition of the boat (the off-white).

I guess I could change those to red on my boat and have a great vessel for the 4th of July :D
 
I remember Mike, who owned the boat Papillion from Florida painted his accent colors on the brow and stripe from the old Sky Blue color to the standard darker blue color found on the current boats several years ago. Take a look at the Papillion photo album. Mike did a nice job.

I know that Byrdman also repainted his 18' C-Dory.

That being said, I really like the Red. :thup

Peter
C-Dancer
 
haakebecks":2o0lfqz0 said:
Alexseal and Internatioanl are both popular alternatives to Awlgrip and Imron. Alexseal in particular has really taken off over the past several years.
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I completely agree. I considered using the more generic "substance type" instead of brand names, but figured that for just a basic/quick discussion brand names would be easier.

I'm no expert, but from what I understand there are two typical flavors of two-part used on boats. They are both polyurethanes. One is polyester based, such as Awlgrip (the standby). Other companies make them too though, such as Alexseal, Sterling, and more.

The other "flavor" is acrylic based. Maybe the best known is Imron, but Awlgrip company also makes one called Awlcraft 2000, as do other companies.

Again, not a coatings pro, but here are the differences as I understand them:

Awlgrip type: Super hard, shiny, and long lasting shine. Virtually nothing to do but enjoy the shine until you eventually repaint (which can be 20 years or more in good conditions). On the other hand, harder to repair/blend, which is the flipside of the benefits. (You can maintain and clean and use "product" on Awlgrip, but it's still essentially "fit and forget" as compared to other coatings.)

Awlcraft type: Hard and shiny, but a slightly less hard "shell" type of coating. But then on the flipside it is a bit easier to repair, and you can "buff it out" like you can gelcoat. But then too, you may need to buff it when you wouldn't need to do Awlgrip. No perfect choice, of course - it's a boat :D

A friend had a large, high-end yacht painted: The yard recommended Awlgrip for the hull (topsides) and Awlcraft for the deck, so that's what they went with. They reasoned that things *would* get dropped on the deck and need repair. But then other good yards would probably recommend Awlgrip for the deck because it's harder... I can see it both ways.

I had a boat that was Awlgripped (by the previous owner) 20 years past. It still shined like a new boat, and that was with just simple washing/caring. It was in a lower UV climate, and covered in winter, but still..... amazing finish.

I'm sure someone really knowledgeable could probably improve on my explanation, but I wanted to respond because I had used the brand names and not the "real info" in my previous post.
 
DuckDogTitus Please one warning; unless you are very skilled with a spray gun, and have done some previous 2 part Linlear Polyurethane paint jobs, hire a professional to spray a boat. I use a gal who I have been working with for over 20 years now, and she is the best in our area. She has a second person work with her for the final spray. First she takes weeks to prep the area with sanding, filling, then sanding and filling again, finally several coasts of primer, with sanding and filling between. Finally she does the finish coat. It has to be done all at one time--or at least one side of the boat at one time. It takes two people--one very skilled with the spray gun and the other spotting to see if there any defects, plus handling the air hoses (and her positive pressure respirator hose. The charge can range up to over $1,000 a foot depending on the amount of work necessary. I did get over 11 years on the paint job on my Cal 46 doing full time cruising.

There are several other alternatives--and that includes for trim work using a single part paint like Toplac , which in Florida seems to last almost as well as a 2 part LP. There are two part brushables such as Sterling, but for a color strip, I would stick with Toplac or Brightside. I have sprayed smaller items such as a 60 foot mast with 2 part Awlgrip, and I have done tip and roll for both 2 parts and single parts on boats. But I would never attempt a full boat with sprayable paints. Also the two part LP's are not for under water areas--they will blister, so do not paint the bottom of the boat with 2 part LP/s.
 
thanks Bob, I do have some previous automotive paint experience but I'm not planning on jumping into this part myself. I'm more trying to get a feel for the process so that I know better what questions to ask a qualified shop (and to deem them qualified) and to get an idea of expenses to expect.
 
Absolutely agree, and I hope that didn't get buried in my previous post: Supplied-air respirator (and full complement of other gear) only for spraying LPU! Atomized two-parts can ruin your lungs lickety-split and permanently. I would also never attempt spraying myself, but I might prep myself (and then have a pro spray). Just depending on the situation.
 
on a lesser boat I might try it myself, but I've become a believer that C-Dorys aren't owned, they are merely rented until the next skipper comes along, so it must be treated appropriately for those who follow ;)
 
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