EZ-Loader Bunk Trailer

colbysmith

colbysmith

Active member
I just recently purchased a used 2007 22 Cruiser and need some information on how the trailer should be set up. Currently, the trailer, a 2007 EZ-Loader Tandem axle bunk trailer, only has two bunks. Since I haven't figured out how to upload pictures here yet, I'll try to take this step by step.
- The bunks extend about 4" aft of the boats transom, and half the width of the bunk is under the trim tabs.
- The bunks are about 6" inside of the boats bottom chine.
- The bunks come forward to just about halfway between the cabin windshield and the front of the raised roof of the V-bert.
- There are no other rollers under the keel or other forms of support, except the bow stop roller.
- The tongue weight is about 400 lbs, so I believe I can move the boat aft to place the end of the bunks even with the edge of the transom, and still have enough tongue weight for safe trailering.
- I think I can also change the bow stop setup enough to match it to the boat with the boat moved aft. It's hard to explain the bowstop issue without pictures, so I'll just leave it at that for now.

I see two problems with the current trailer setup. The boat transom should be even with the back edge of the bunks. And it's a real bitch to center load the boat on the trailer. I'm thinking if I can get those two bunks moved outwards towards the inside of those bottom chines, it would help with centering. I also think I need to add some additional bunks closer to the center keel and perhaps add a roller or two closer to the front of the boat under the keel. Can I move the two bunks now outwards, or would this leave too much of the boats bottom unsupported? Has anyone else modified or added to a trailer like this, and any suggestions? Colby
 
Here is a picture of the bow stop:
DSCF1004.sized.jpg
As you can see, I need to move it back more than 4" due to the trailer frame. However, by angling the horizontal member down more (by changing bolt locations), and by removing the extension on the roller, that would require me to move the horizontal member up the post, thereby allowing me to move the post back more than I'm moving the boat back. Hopefully doing all that will allow enough room to tighten that post just aft of where the trailer frame comes together.
Here is a picture of underneath the boat.
DSCF1006.sized.jpg

And this is the back of the boat:
DSCF1003.sized.jpg
 
I can't address your questions, since I'm just trying to figure trailer details out myself -- but I just wanted to say "Oh good, another current trailer thread!" I'll be reading along to see what I can learn.
 
I don't think you are hurting anything by having the bunks extending past the transom.
Your trailer looks like you can't move the boat back any further...I may wrong.
You can move the bunks out towards the side, or not, it should not hurt the hull, but moving the bunks out will not help to center the boat while retrieving the boat at the ramp.
You need to add centering guides. There are many different designs, and solutions. I have seen a few on here. I am interested inb any ideas as well.

Mike
 
The only thing I don't like about the bunks being behind the transom, is if I have the motor running and forget to raise the trim tabs, I'm not sure how they'd fair since half the bunks sit under them. (Nice feature, when the motor is shut off, the trim tabs automatically retract fully.) As for the bow stop, if you look close at my photo above, I think if I change the horizontal arm to almost level by relocating that one bolt, then I would need to raise the arm up on the post, thereby moving it forward. Remove the roller extension, and I think that might gain me enough space on the bow stop to move the base far enuf aft to still attach it properly to the trailer frame. I'd just relocate the wood bunks on the metal framing, except that the back of the framing already sticks out slightly from the wood as it is, with what must be tie down holes.
 
If the tongue weight is correct, I would consider taking a saw to the bunk.

Just like the old carpenter... I cut that board three times, and it's still too short.

OK, well measure carefully!
 
My question is: Is anything really broken? Why try to fix it if it isn't. Apparently the prior owner used the boat just fine as is on that trailer? Chances are the trailer and boat were set up by the dealer already and are the way they are for a reason.
 
Colby,

Before making any modifications use the trailer a few times, load and off at the ramp. I would recommend in doing so you will get a feel for the trailer depth at the ramp for both directions. I think you'll find the trailer will work just as is.

I load with the boat, not floating on, and the two bunks center Kestrel just fine.

Mike
 
Ion't understand why EZ Loader only uses tw bunks on their trailers in the weight range, but they do.

Move the winch stand back past the point where the side frams join the tongue. that will move the boat back so that the bunks doen't hang past the hull.

You don't need any rollers on the keel. The bunks provide all the support. A cecond set of bunks would provide additional support, and with the C-Dory 22's weight, I would probably add them.

Loading a C-Dory can be challanging because there is nothing on the hull that will self center the boat on the bunks. Side load guides are your best bet, the style that are 5-8' long (5' on single axle, 8' on dual axle) with carpeted side boards. The goal post style of load guides are helpful in seeing where the trailer is, but may not be strong enough to provide side to side support to keep the boat in place. (although Pat Anderson installed a style that is very beefy that would work)

Hope this helps!
 
Matt Gurnsey":s1qvt92g said:
Move the winch stand back past the point where the side frams join the tongue. that will move the boat back so that the bunks doen't hang past the hull.
Click to expand...

This possibly could require the axle(s) to be moved back to maintain correct tongue weight.
 
Thanks Matt. I think you have the best understanding of what I am experiencing or trying to fix. I have started thinking about replacing those single guide posts with the side boards. I probably need to contact EZ Loader and see what information or assistance I can get for adding two more bunks.
 
Chester, there should still be enough tongue weight with moving the boat only 4" back. I still need to get some accurate weights, but judging by how it towed behind my Excursion, I think it would be ok with only that much movement aft. Colby
 
Mike and Harry, while I haven't even used the boat yet here at home, I have a lot of trailering experience, and not just with boats. Just loading it the one time with the original owner after going for a sea trial, I think I have a pretty good idea of what I'm going to face, as I will be doing a lot of trailering, and that means a lot of launching and loading. The previous owner kept the boat on a lift and winter storage, and I don't think used the trailer for launching and loading but twice a year. I've also learned that just because a dealer set it up, it might not be the best set up. ;-( Seems to me, the side boards are probably going to be the best way to make loading the boat easier. But I still have a concern of only two bunks under the hull, considering I will also be trailering long distances, and this is where the boat will be stored the majority of the time. I don't think the bunks should hang out behind the transom so far either, unless I move them inboard more so they are not under the trim tabs. Actually, if I put side boards on, I could probably move the bunks more inboard rather than outboard. And not worry about moving the boat at all. Just talking thru this, perhaps adding two bunks closer to the middle, and moving the existing bunks in slightly so they are not under the trim tabs, along with adding the side boards would be the best fix.
 
Matt knows what he is doing with boat trailers. I would go with what he says. I would also add a second set of bunk boards under that boat. It will spread the load out on the hull, so less likely to deform there, it will provide a better ride for the boat, so less chance of damage from bouncing, and it will conform to my absolute rule, "If one will do the job, then 2 will do it safer" That goes for if you are nailing up a board or holding up your pants. Duplicit redoubled redundancy rules. :thup :thup

Just trying to get by, two steps at a time..

The side boards will help in centering. Be sure and check the bottom of your boat. Mine has a freshwater intake grill, that sits right at the edge of one of the bunk boards. Off centers the boat by about an inch and a half. :sad

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

My trailer after I replaced the bunks, carpet and winch and cable.
January_2010_181.sized.jpg
 
Thanks Harvey for that photo. I think that is what I'm going to try to do with my trailer. The bunk and side board set up that is. I'll see if I can contact EZ-Loader about what parts I need. I've already got just the single side post set up. Maybe I can just add another post on each side forward to mount the boards on. Or I may need to get a complete kit. Colby P.s. BTW, that trailer in the background that your boat is on, looks a lot like the trailer I have. Just curious, how many boards were on it?
 
Colby, Most of the C-Dory 22' Cruisers on EZ Loader trailers have their adjustments made so the transom is even with the aft end of bunks. Moving the bow roller support back 4 inches is not going to change the tongue weight by any significant amount. I would not cut the end of bunks off as has been suggested. If you look under the aft end of each bunk, you will see a galvanized "tab" with hole. This tab is used to secure boat to trailer with a tension strap attached to transom "U" bolts. Apparently you did not get any with the rig? The side guides are another issue but after a few launches it should become clear what will best work for you.
 
You are right about the metal under the wood bunks, and why cutting it won't work. The tie down strap that came with the boat goes across the entire transom from side to side and hooks into holes on the trailer frame. I may eventually switch to tie downs as you mention, but for now the other strap is working ok. (Except I can't remember how to hook the strap thru the buckel and get it too hold...so I may be using the seperate tiedowns sooner than later....no problem, I have several of them hanging in the garage. ;-)
 
Interesting reading thru my old thread here. Eventually, I added the two extra bunks to the trailer, and did a whole lot of trailering with Midnight Flyer. Got the trailer set up perfectly, and life was good.
Last year went to the 25 "C-Traveler", and early this year picked up a new Load Rite trailer. Now still trying to get the best setup, primarily with the target bunks. Also interesting, this trailer only comes with two main bunks, and yet it's specs allow for something heavier than the 25. And I guess I'm a lot more comfortable with just two bunks with the last decade of experience behind me. Although I have though a few times about if it would be better to add two more bunks. But there are a whole lot of boats being towed around with just two bunks under them. I'm wondering if a keel roller under the bow would make life easier than the target bunks. What I'm finding is that winching the 25 on is quite a bit tougher than the 22 was to winch on. Perhaps I have set the target bunks to high, as I did have them touching the hull with the trailer and boat dry on land. Today I repositioned the target bunks a bit lower, so the back of them are about 4 inches from the hull, and the front are just a smidge away from the hull. There purpose is not to support any weight anyway, but rather to just catch and center the bow as the boat comes onto the trailer, which is going to be angled up when back down on the ramp. I'll probably have to play a little more with how far to back the trailer in to just float it off the main bunks, while still not necessarily needing to put the target bunks under the water. Colby
 
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