Fabricating a roof rack and frame for cockpit roof.

[snal]

I got started last night. The frame is made of 1x1 stainless tubing (.063 wall). The crossmembers were rolled to match the curve of the cabin roof. Support legs are welded to the existing rails atp the cabin. Rear support legs are next. I hope to cut the frame and fabricate inserts that will weld into the section that stays over the cabin. That way I could remove the rear roof when it's not needed. The removed section would then nest atop the cabin frame and still be aboard the boat.
Pics are in my album.

 

[416rigby]

Didn't take you very long to get started! :lol: Isn't this fun stuff? Are you going to frame it with canvas or what?

I checked out your pics. The one question I have for you is your trailer...could be just me, but it looks wayyy too short for your boat. Is there any support under the transom? If not, I'd be looking real hard at addressing that issue. That's a lot of weight to be bouncing around on the highway unsupported. The bunks on my trailer extend a couple inches past the transom.

Rick

 

[snal]

Didn't take you very long to get started! :lol: Isn't this fun stuff? Are you going to frame it with canvas or what?
I checked out your pics. The one question I have for you is your trailer...could be just me, but it looks wayyy too short for your boat. Is there any support under the transom? If not, I'd be looking real hard at addressing that issue. That's a lot of weight to be bouncing around on the highway unsupported. The bunks on my trailer extend a couple inches past the transom.
Rick

Yep, it'll get a canvas cover with side curtains, and yep!...it's fun!

Good point about the trailer. Right now the bunks end 20" forward of the transom. I have the room to move the bow winch forward, but this will have the lower bow hitting the apex of the trailer. One option is to move the bunks outward. The crossmembers are "V" shaped, so this would raise the hull up on the trailer. Right now the bunks are 9" from the chines. I could also add keel rollers if need be. I'm not sure that simply making the bunks that much longer would help. Shifting the bunks outward, till they nearly touch the chines would raise the boat 2.5" roughly. Right now the tounge weight is such that I can lift it, estimating under 100lbs. The previous owner trailered the boat with the engines down, 2.5" of height, and moving forward might allow me to do the same where I live.
Do you have an opinion of the roof frame? Opinions lead to education!
Trials will let me know if I'll need to make the cockpit section removable, but right now I don't see the need. I can swing my 160lbs of body weight on the mid crossmember with very little deflection, and the current configuration will allow roughly 5 degrees of slope (off of plumb) for the future side curtains. The frame above the cabin will have baskets on either side of the raised center section, allowing storage of extra fuel cans and such. The area directly above the center cabin will be left free to allow a possible rooftop AC unit.
The height of the framework still allows me to store the boat in my oversized garage here at my shop!

 

[Bearbait]

Thanks for the pics, I am considering some type of cover over at least part of the cockpit. I always prefer stealing others ideas rather wearing out my brain coming up with my own.

 

[snal]

Thanks for the pics, I am considering some type of cover over at least part of the cockpit. I always prefer stealing others ideas rather wearing out my brain coming up with my own.

LOL!...just don't steal mine yet! I have yet to work any bugs out of the design. I'll keep you posted on any likes/dislikes about this one...so that you can learn from my mistakes.
I have 6'-9" of clearance centerline (to the fiberglass floor) right now, and getting in and out over the side isn't a problem (I'm 6'). My wood floor inserts will lower that nearly 4". The gunnel to frame is 40", and I'm getting in and out via the trailer fender rather than dockside. Height from the top of the factory rooftop rails is 9", tapering slightly towards the stern from the rear of the cabin.

 

[Anonymous]

Glad to see another craftsman joined our ranks, I'm amazed at how FEW folks work with their hands these days.
Mike

 

[Rob & Karen]

Have you tried moving from the cockpit along the catwalk on the side up to the bow, and back again? It looks like it may be awkward, but it is hard to tell just from a picture.

I do like the idea though. It should be a big shady area and still allow air to flow above the boat but below the roof.

Rob

 

[snal]

Glad to see another craftsman joined our ranks, I'm amazed at how FEW folks work with their hands these days.
Mike

I enjoy it Mike. I have a metal fab shop, and we specialize in the type of work that noboby else wants to mess with. This makes my work quite interesting, and very rarely boring. I hate it when folks come in with blueprints, I much prefer a crude drawing on the back of an old piece of cardboard, and I can visualize what the customer wants without a bunch of CAD crap. Needless to say, I don't want production work.
The problem is finding employees that can think on their feet, and they are few and far between.

 

[snal]

Have you tried moving from the cockpit along the catwalk on the side up to the bow, and back again? It looks like it may be awkward, but it is hard to tell just from a picture.
I do like the idea though. It should be a big shady area and still allow air to flow above the boat but below the roof.
Rob

Yes, good point! My wife is terrified of such ventures, but she actually feels better about holding onto my frame rails rather than the factory rooftop rails. Of course, this has been while the boat was on trailer here at my shop VS on the water...so we'll see. I'll give "her" on the water report on that. The entire framework does follow the curves of the boat from front to rear, not perfectly, but close.

 

[oldgrowth]

Snarl~ - good design and craftsmanship on your roof rack. You also did a great job in restoring the finish.

Raise the boat on the trailer and then move the wench post forward. You can then move the axel forward to compensate for the added tong weight.

To keep the bow from hitting the apex of the trailer when you are launching or retrieving on steep ramps, put a bow roller at the apex of the trailer.

I did this when I extended my boat. It works great.


________
Dave